Thanks for the tips.  Spoke with Jay at broader performance and I think we've got a good solution.  I managed to get the trans out (smashed my thumb in the process... it got ugly... so is my thumb) - but still have to pull the bellhousing and torque converter but I ran out of daylight.  Any tips from here?  Thanks everyone for your continued help.  A couple weeks ago, I wouldn't have thought that I would have taken this project on myself, but so far so good.  - John

John: Lake Forest, IL



'57 Fairlane 500 - Looking better every day.

I read once where too cold a transmission is not good, they are rated to run at a certain temperature, I don't know what that is on the top of my head but I think around the same temp as the radiator 170 -190, if you have ever noticed starting in the cold winter it takes a few moments before the trans kicks in once the fluid warms up. When it is too cold I believe the radiator actually is used to warm the trans fluid at certain times to maintain the steady trans temp.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

HELP...  Got the trans back and after getting it mounted to the motor I find out a major problem...  It was suppose to have th FOM tail housing and it doesn't.  So, I'm sure you all know where i'm going with this one - It doesn't mount to the cross member and the drive shaft is about 2-3" too short.  I remember seeing pictures of someone who had added a support section to the cross member, but I couldn't find it in a search.  Also, any thoughts on the drive shaft???  I've hit my $ limit on this project and can't put up a load of money to have it extended. 

I put a call into Jay at broader performance to find out what happened, but I obviously won't hear back until tomorrow, so any wisdom in the mean time would be appreciated.  As I type this I'm laying under the car in the driveway reviewing my options.

Also, Glen - I received the dip stick tube (10 mins with the wire wheel and a little spray paint cleaned it up good as new) THANKS!  I think if not for the tube itself I need to send you some $ compensation for the time it took to put all those stamps on the packaging, yikes

- John

John: Lake Forest, IL



'57 Fairlane 500 - Looking better every day.

Glad it worked out for you, as for as the stamps, I just paid the postmaster, he licked all the stamps. I am sure he is trying to get ride of all the 34's and 37's that ain't good anymore. If you are close to a junkyard measure up a later big ford drive shaft, you might get lucky. I have one from a 63 merc, that I will check the length on. You may be able to extend the crossmember mount with a piece of channel or fab it from flat bar.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Ok, so no worries.  I paniced prematurely (idiot) - there is an additional bracket for the tailhousing that is in one of the boxes of parts that I got back from Jay...   I think the driveshaft seemed like it wasn't in all the way because of the angle that the trans was sitting and the alignment to the rear axel, and in my mind I was already thinking problem. 

The good news is that I should get it finished up tonight.  I'll start her up with open headers and get a video posted before I put the exhaust back on. Should be pretty wicked.

- John

John: Lake Forest, IL



'57 Fairlane 500 - Looking better every day.

Glad you got it figured out, but just in case anyone ever runs into a drive shaft shortage (no pun intended) I just measured the 63 merc drive shaft 57 1/2" center to center of joint, 57 fairlane 56 5/8" center to center. The front yoke on the merc is about 3" longer than the 57, but could be cut down or replaced with a 57 unit. The only custom drive shaft that I have is still in the old parts car and I didn't fill like fighting the snakes and spiders to measure it, but I am sure it is several in's shorter than the fairlane requiring that the later unit be cut down. Just for info if anyone can use it.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Last night was not entirely successful:

Is it possible to buy trans cooler line stock (similar to brake lines)?  I can't seem to find anything online.  My old ones were damaged from when I took the trans out and I'm trying to add an aftermarket cooler infront of the radiator.  I see running rubber hose the whole way as trouble, nor do I see a good place for them to go.  (correct me if I'm wrong because rubber would be easier)  I want to try to atleast get from the trans to the radiator with steel (which I figure I can run along the bottom of the block where they were originally, and then I can run around the radiator to the cooler in rubber.

Also, I've got about 1-1.5" of shaft showing between the tail housing and the yoke/U joints.  Is this normal, I don't remember what it looked like before I took everything apart.  I should have taken more picures. 

Edit: I just found this: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_317274_-1

I'd have to imagine it's the same type of tubing and I could get the same stuff/fittings at Napa or Autozone...  Sorry for my ignorance, I have no experience in doing this type of stuff and decided to just dive in on this project.

- John

John: Lake Forest, IL



'57 Fairlane 500 - Looking better every day.

Basicly any line of the correct size will work. Your local parts store should have it. If you can make them to connect directly at both ends that would be best. If not use a rubber line that is rated for ATF use. Make sure the clamps are on straight and tight. Regular fuel hose will break down with transmission fluid. Most of my vehicle automatics have had steel lines with 3"-4" of rubber at each end and work fine. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

John:

Does the trans rear seal have a dust boot on it?  The original probably did, which would hide about an inch of the yoke that you see.  If the new seal has the boot and you still see that much shaft, it would seem that the driveshaft is a little short.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Damn, that's it - I looked back at some pictures of the trans when I pulled it and it had a bulge on the end.  Another thing I need to order - eh Thanks!

- John

John: Lake Forest, IL



'57 Fairlane 500 - Looking better every day.