If I was to update my tired '54 4-door what would be good donor car to use to get engine, trans and anything else usefull that would be pretty easy swap? (Need not be Ford).

We don't speak Scrub here! What engine is in it now? It should be an easy update to a good running 292 or even 312 (if your pockets are deep or you get lucky). They will preform with anything out there. You could even run a C-4 or AOD trans if you want. With my car I plan to stay Y-Block until either I'm gone or my last spare engine is blown! Whichever comes first. These engine have been running the roads for over 40 years with little or no problems (except for pushing them too hard or neglecting them). Y-BlocksFOREVER! Chuck in NH

PS I have a rebuilt 40 over 272 short block ready for reassembly if you are interested.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

My '54 has original Y block engine and auto trans, both are running okay but pretty tired and I was thinking maybe it would be cheaper to replace stuff, from wrecked late model Mustang or something than having eng and trans rebuilt. That way I would end up with modern drive train, od trans and maybe even brakes, suspension, power steering and stuff. I just want this car for driver not for trailering it to car shows to have it picked over to see that everything is as should be. (To do that I would probably have to start by remove about 25 pounds of Bondo and replace 99% of sheet metal). I'm not dead set to idea of changing over, just asking if it is something I should consider...keep hearing about these old cars with Chev, Chrysler, and Olds engines. Oh! while I'm here, does anyone have suggestions on how to repair rusted away drip rails? Finally, was able to remove door handles and window cranks from my '55 with help of forum members so today I can start to upholster the panels...Thanks for that help

Depends on how bad the rust mites are in the drip rails. The roof skin is rolled and spot welded into the drip rail and then seam sealer was applied to make it water tight or that was the intent, didn't work so well unless you live in out west. If it is not too bad yet, POR 15 has a putty that can be used too repair drip rails, around windshields, the groove that the trunk seal fits into or any other small rusted area. You just clean it good, apply their rust inhibiter and form this stuff into the area. Dries very,very hard and can be sanded down to match the surrounding area. Not a repair, but a good patch for a driver.

The other option would be too fab up a replacement or find a doner and cut out the section you need to make the repair. Not cheap and requires a great deal of work and probably best left to a professional.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Please keep your 54 as it was back in the 50's even if you have to uprade it to a 272, 292,312. It should be at least period correct of that time. Otherwise why even bother with it if you want something more modern. I just walk away from cars at shows that are not even close to that time, whether it be a  dodge,chevy, ford, or pontiac etc. It degrades them for what they were and the value of them goes way down!  Do you want to hear those glass pacs or a 400 watt stereo? If the latter buy a Honda civic & put one in. Get my drift?  I am not trying to be a wise guy, but just keep it like the old days! 

     

Marvin,

         Pease bring that to EXPO labor day, sure is "purty".

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

WOW....what a thrill it must be to drive into that driveway everyday and in that Mercury too, gives me goose-bumps just looking at the picture. What part of Paradise is that?

Okay, I'm convinced, sorry for getting everyone upset...I'll keep the car as original as I can, right down to the drum brakes.

Not Upset! Just Y-concious. It's your car after all but we just love to see the Y-Blocks retained. They are often underestimated. There was a guy from Arizona at the Columbus meet this year. Drove his 54 from there and back. Raced it a few times. The motor had been changed to a 292 but the detailing was all 239. This was very near to a concorse appearing driveable car that apparently sees a lot of shows. Keep the 239 (if you have space) and build a 272/292 for it. But most of all fix it the way YOU want it and DRIVE IT! Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Wouldn't a 54 Merc original engine be a Y- 256" ?  If it just needs some freshining up, possibly parts might be available from people like Egge Machine or maybe Schumanns Sales. If I recall correctly (?) I think the pistons are the same dimension as 272s (same rings?) but with the shorter 239 type crank. It might be possible to install a 272/292 crank and rods if a person wanted to go that far, but that's a maybe, as the engine may be a Dearborn early casting.. ??    

Paul

Ron,



It's your car, so do what makes you happiest. But here are some things to think about. If you swap to a newer engine like a 302, you'll have to do a bunch of work to get linkages and motor mounts to work, and in the end it will still be a lash-up. On the other hand, if you rebuild and retune the 239, at least the parts will all be there to make it work right the first time. The stock 239 can be bored and stroked to 272 (3.3" cranks are easy to come by) and I think the Fordomatic can be reprogrammed for 3 speeds. If you zero-deck the pistons and use a 63-64 distributor I think you'll have a decent engine that gets good mileage. I just searched egge machine. You can save $100 if you buy 256 pistons over 239 pistons, but you'll have to bore the block to fit. Oddly, 256 pistons are cheaper than 272 pistons.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho