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Road Draft Tube

Posted By Outlaw56 16 Years Ago
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Bill Childs
Posted 9 Years Ago
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Been following this thread with interest trying to sort out a pcv plan. Check out this pic of what I have here:

I think the fitting I have on the aft end of the valley cover came with the Mummert intake. If I want a closed pcv system should I stick the appropriate size pcv valve inline between this fitting on the valley cover and the hose barb coming of the back of my carb? Or the threaded hole in the boss on back side of the intake? I'm thinking carb.
Also, then I get an oil fill cap that has a tube for a hose and run that into my air filter? Am I close with any of this? Thanks

Bill C
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Drag it home, figure it out.
Ted
Posted 9 Years Ago
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DryLakesRacer (5/8/2016)
My 56 is starting to show "breathing" from the road draft tube but it is dry with no drips at all or smell I can detect. I am assuming every open engine would show something unless you've installed Total-Seal piston rings. Ted is this a good idea for street engines?
I typically only use gapless rings on those applications where I’m minimizing the contaminants getting into the oil.  Supercharged with injected alcohol is one of these applications.  On a street car, I typically don’t recommend gapless rings simply due to the lack of oil that can get past them thus increasing the wear factor.  I did run a Ford 427 High Riser on the same set of gapless rings in excess of twelve years and to their credit, those rings were still sealing good at the end of their reign.  The heads were thoroughly worn out at that point though but simply due to lots of running and nothing to do with the gapless rings.  The cylinder walls were also heavily scalloped but that had more to do with the thin wall casting design of the 427 side oiler block and the 0.009” piston wall clearance and not the gapless rings.


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Ted
Posted 9 Years Ago
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olepoop (5/7/2016)
 I don't want to start a new issue with the road draft tube.  Mine would push out a quart of oil in 20 miles oiling the whole under side of truck. 272 bored to 292 and fresh.  Put on a evac system thru valve covers and hosed to the collectors on headers.  I have oil pushing out fuel pump and leaking out pvc valves on headers.  So I still have an issue.

As Charlie brings up, header evacuation systems are specifically for race cars running open headers.  On the race cars, these systems by design remove air from the crankcase which reduces the drag on the crankshaft and other moving parts.  These system still incorporate a check valve at the header collertors to eliminate any possibility of any backpressure making its way back into the crankcase.
 
Vacuum systems that use the exhaust flow as the flow driver are typically non-effective in daily driver situations when hooked up to an exhaust system that has mufflers or long small diameter pipes.  This is simply due to any back pressure present reducing the negative air pressure flow across the installed nozzle and subsequently prevents a vacuum or negative pressure from being generated.  These types of vacuum evacuation systems are ideally suited on open headers that have no mufflers and as a result, these systems do work well on the racing applications.  Here’s a picture of the evacuation system on my roadster.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/0e720eb3-8884-4fd5-895b-1937.jpg 



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


DryLakesRacer
Posted 9 Years Ago
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I installed a lot of PVC "smog " devices in So Cal in 62-65 when I worked fo Sears. We ruined countless rocker covers and put plugs in road draft tubes. My 56 is starting to show "breathing" from the road draft tube but it is dry with no drips at all or smell I can detect. I am assuming every open engine would show something unless you've installed Total-Seal piston rings. (Ted is this a good idea for street engines?)

I have the rear breathing valley cover ready to go which I would refit with a PVC. Personally a PVC is not a bad idea both for the environment and to keep your engine clean since you are running under a slight vacuum. The test at Sears was a device we set on the filler cap that showed a vacuum by a ball moving. I would slide a piece of paper over the tube and if it stayed they even under reving the engine it was good. A poor condition engine under reving would not hold the paper because of too much blowby. If I ever need to remove my intake I'll probably do it.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
charliemccraney
Posted 9 Years Ago
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That style of evacuation system is only effective on racecars that see high rpm.  It won't solve your problem and will probably cause more.

A quart in 20 miles seems like a bad valve cover gasket, oil filter gasket, oil pump gasket, something like that.  You sure it's coming out of the road draft tube?
If the road draft setup was clogged, then your crankcase will pressurize, which can force oil out of many places and the evacuation system you have installed will not help that when used in a street vehicle.





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olepoop
Posted 9 Years Ago
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I don't want to start a new issue with the road draft tube.  Mine would push out a quart of oil in 20 miles oiling the whole under side of truck. 272 bored to 292 and fresh.  Put on a evac system thru valve covers and hosed to the collectors on headers.  I have oil pushing out fuel pump and leaking out pvc valves on headers.  So I still have an issue.
2721955meteor
Posted 9 Years Ago
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on my 57ranchero i drilled a capscrew and welded a fiting to adapt a hose then a pcv valve from a 351,capscrew went into the ds head axcessing the push rod hole, then to the bace of the holley 4v. i left the original .road draft(left front of the block) iget some air frome the filler cap,balance from original rd tube. no leakes ,did this as got the od whif of blow by after a long run.my project started as i wanted pcv valve ,but did not want to remove the  int and mod the valley cover. will eventialey redo with the proper ,or mod the existing one.Iwas concerned i would pickup oil as get lots to the rockers and pluged the bleed tubes.litle or no oil gets by pcv,and no negitive vacume in crankcace.
never smell blow by ,does not use any oil.the engine has aprox 70000 miles with rebuilt heads andholley 4v aswell dura spark ign runs like a charm
oldcarmark
Posted 16 Years Ago
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I think what Ted meant was run the hose from air cleaner to the oil fill cap to create a fully closed system as opposed to just drawing air through the oil cap.The hose from PCV valve ideally would go on the port on carb if there is one on carb.Do not hook it in at back of manifold as rear cylinders will run lean.If there is no port on carb you may have to drill and tap for a vacuum fitting as close to the carb as possible or use a spacer plate with PCV hose fitting incorporated in it.To make it a closed system using your type air cleaner put a vacuum fitting in bottom of air cleaner inside the filter element.That way you draw filtered air into cap and any fumes from cap are drawn into air cleaner and burned in carb.

[Note added by Ted / 3/5/2009 7:30PM]  Thanks Mark.  That is indeed what I meant.

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Outlaw56
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Ted,

I have a Ford Race Filter that has the element exposed on the sides. Where would you suggest porting the hose from the PVC to come into this type of air cleaner?

Thanks,

Darrell Howard Outlaw 56 F-100

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

Ted
Posted 16 Years Ago
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rexbd (3/3/2009)
Are you better running a PCV valve from a larger displacement engine, such as an FE series, to adapt the Yblock to maximize flow from the valve?  Confused about if its better to vent the valve cover breather into the air cleaner or doesn't matter for a street car.

Always run a PCV from an engine that's similar in cubic inch when retrofitting.  But Y's did have PCV valves in the early Sixties so that would be the one to work with first.  When retrofitting for a Y, I simply pick out a PCV valve originally designed for a 289 or 302 SBF.  And if given the choice, run the vent to the air cleaner.  Just makes everything cleaner.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)




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