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[quote]Roy (1/7/2010) Don't know if this will help but I just bought a 09 Toyota power steering column. Should have it in a day or two. Its electric powered. There's an electric motor on the column. Looks like the motor will end up under the dash and then it can connect (one way or another) to the existing column, modified no doubt. So you leave your steering box and this motor somehow knows when to help and how much. The guy included the wiring harness plugs to help a little, but I'll definitely need to do some thinking. I can't believe all I need to do is add power. But who knows. If your interested, I'll update you. Hi Roy, did you ever get the electric steering sorted out?
South Australia
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Didn't see it mentioned but you could lengthen your pitman arm to give it more travel over degree of movement. But of course it would be harder to turn the steering wheel. With your new Brodie Knob you will be 'drifting' in no time. Desclaimer; The above is just a suggestion and highly not recommended.
"The Master Cylinder" Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL ![Smooooth](http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Skins/Classic/Images/EmotIcons/Smooooth.gif)
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Oldcarmark:When you refered to"free play in the middle" are you meaning that the steering is loose or wanders at centre? And how can I check to see if my idler arm bushings are worn? With the wheels on the ground every thing appears tight, although I've had problems trying to get the idler arm to accept grease. My 57 c/w a 58 box is loose on center & on some surfaces wanders quite badly. Ive adjusted the centre screw some, but don't want to over tighten it.. Any info appreciated.- Paul
Paul
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Hi Paul! I posted the question on the technical the other day and regarding how much vertical play there should be in the idler arm.About 1/8 inch max.You shouldn't be able to move it up and down by hand more than 1/8 inch.I have about 1/2 inch play.With the weight on the wheels the linkage moves without moving the wheels until the slack in the idler arm is taken up.Very noticeable when driving straight.Dead spot in the centre.I had the alignment done on Monday and the Mechanic said it just needs the bushings replaced.Chevrolet used the same type of idler in theirs and he has owned a bunch over the years.If you look at Ebay item # 190648905331 that's the bushings.I ordered 2 from Joblot and 2 seals.Bushings are $4.00 each and the seals $2.00.Part # MB 3356 Bushing and A 3359 Seals.You should check your idler arm as the play might not be in the box at all.
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oldcarmark (8/16/2013) Hi Paul! I posted the question on the technical the other day and regarding how much vertical play there should be in the idler arm.About 1/8 inch max.You shouldn't be able to move it up and down by hand more than 1/8 inch.I have about 1/2 inch play.With the weight on the wheels the linkage moves without moving the wheels until the slack in the idler arm is taken up.Very noticeable when driving straight.Dead spot in the centre.I had the alignment done on Monday and the Mechanic said it just needs the bushings replaced.Chevrolet used the same type of idler in theirs and he has owned a bunch over the years.If you look at Ebay item # 190648905331 that's the bushings.I ordered 2 from Joblot and 2 seals.Bushings are $4.00 each and the seals $2.00.Part # MB 3356 Bushing and A 3359 Seals.You should check your idler arm as the play might not be in the box at all.Mark, you,r on right track, my only suggestion is the bushes are the same as a nut rotating on a bolt and hence i think you could share the wear between both, so would be better to replace idler arm assy to rule out any wear on the idler shaft threads also.
AussieBill YYYY Forever Y Block YYYY Down Under, Australia
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I think you are right Bill.I have ordered a complete Idler Arm-NORS American Made.Not one of the "Repro's" offered by several Dealers.And you know what-it was cheaper than any of the Repro's!
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