Profile Picture

Found The Oil Leak

Posted By Half-dude 2 days ago
You don't have permission to rate!
Author
Message
Half-dude
Question Posted 2 days ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (567 reputation)Supercharged (567 reputation)Supercharged (567 reputation)Supercharged (567 reputation)Supercharged (567 reputation)Supercharged (567 reputation)Supercharged (567 reputation)Supercharged (567 reputation)Supercharged (567 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 215, Visits: 11.2K
Knew I had a leak, well hoped I was rather than burning it. After a few drives it'd always be a little lower. My question now is, is this location on the engine supposed to have oil in it in the first place? Looks like it's part of the bell housing, but maybe I'm wrong. Does this panel have a name so I know what gasket part to buy?


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9fc5804f-5783-46d5-8064-728b.jpg
MoonShadow
Posted 2 days ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (7.6K reputation)Supercharged (7.6K reputation)Supercharged (7.6K reputation)Supercharged (7.6K reputation)Supercharged (7.6K reputation)Supercharged (7.6K reputation)Supercharged (7.6K reputation)Supercharged (7.6K reputation)Supercharged (7.6K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 4.6K, Visits: 37.7K
Bad news. That is a cover for the torque converter. It doesn't have a gasket and isn't meant to keep oil in. If you are seeing a lot of oil there you most likely have a rear seal leak. A common problem on the Y-Blocks. It isn't terrible to fix but you will need to know how to do it or hire someone that has experience with changing the rear seals. It is not a job for the faint hearted.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
Deyomatic
Posted 2 days ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (784 reputation)Supercharged (784 reputation)Supercharged (784 reputation)Supercharged (784 reputation)Supercharged (784 reputation)Supercharged (784 reputation)Supercharged (784 reputation)Supercharged (784 reputation)Supercharged (784 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 267, Visits: 1.7K
I know that I watched a video on YouTube that showed what's involved.  You could probably find it with a quick search.  
miker
Posted 2 days ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 1.8K, Visits: 190.5K
Don’t panic. My F code clone had one of the “orange” rear main seals that all failed almost immediately. Engine in the car and driving. My local experienced mechanic changed it with a Sneaky Pete. If I was younger, or he wasn’t around, I’d have done it. Should show up in a video as suggested.

This tools been around since I before I was 16, and I’m 75 now. So they work if done properly.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282433611363?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=282433611363&targetid=2512152189032&device=t&mktype=pla&googleloc=9191121&poi=&campaignid=21214286338&mkgroupid=161030074701&rlsatarget=pla-2512152189032&abcId=9407521&merchantid=101647546&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh8q9WgO1tyRHD34Is-5AE3kN&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiLLABhCEARIsAJYS6unhsjgE9goolyZMc3V7-m-fekQST5OZVcbZujv7rjHQlLg4gWZVqkIaAvAnEALw_wcB

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
DANIEL TINDER
Posted Yesterday
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (2.3K reputation)Supercharged (2.3K reputation)Supercharged (2.3K reputation)Supercharged (2.3K reputation)Supercharged (2.3K reputation)Supercharged (2.3K reputation)Supercharged (2.3K reputation)Supercharged (2.3K reputation)Supercharged (2.3K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 1.7K, Visits: 143.0K
miker (4/26/2025)
…My F code clone had one of the “orange” rear main seals that all failed almost immediately…


I assume that ‘orange’ seal was a problematic 312-specific item, and the same color is not necessarily indicative of likely failure in a 292 (?).


6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
miker
Posted Yesterday
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 1.8K, Visits: 190.5K
I don’t know. Definitely orange in color, and silicone. I think Best Gaskets. It’s been discussed before. But I’ve not read of it being a 292 problem, only 312’s with the larger journals. But it was properly installed, not glued, and the Sneaky got it out and the new one in. Just loosened the mains a bit if I recall. But didn’t drop anything except the retainer.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
oldcarmark
Posted Yesterday
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)Supercharged (6.1K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 3.7K, Visits: 32.4K
Everybody seems to think the problem is the Seal itself. In many cases its the side Seals that leak. When I had my Engine out of the Car to re-seal and paint I redid the rear main Seal because it was leaking even after Someone else replaced it before I bought the Car. I checked the Crankshaft surface to make sure it was in good shape with no grooves or defects. Replaced the Seal with a new Neoprene Seal and offset the Ends so they don't lineup with Cap parting line. I then left the Cap slightly loose  so small Gap in cap-block. Instead of using side Seals I used "The Right Stuff" Gasket maker from Permatex. Fill the side Gaps and let a little get under Cap. Fill side Space fully and don't get any on main Seal or Crankshaft. Let sealant start to setup( 3-4 Minutes) and torque Seal Retainer to Specs. No way side can leak with Sealant in place.  Guess what? 4 Years later no leak from rear Main Area. This "fix" will probably only work with Engine on a Stand upside  down. I cannot take Credit for this. Someone else on this Site or another suggested it.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/339ed844-0bc3-4c73-8368-5dd3.jpg
miker
Posted Yesterday
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)Supercharged (4.1K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 1.8K, Visits: 190.5K
Mr Eaton’s article on the rear seal.

https://www.eatonbalancing.com/2008/09/10/neoprene-rear-seal-installation-for-the-y-and-others/

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ


Reading This Topic


Site Meter