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I see several vendors on ebay selling billet oil filter adapters for Y-blocks, all of which apparently are made in China. Has anyone here used these with good results?
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While I have not used the Chinese made billet oil filter adapters, I have used the U.S.A. made versions without any issues. I too am curious as to anyone out there that has used the Chinese version and what their comments are. The offshore versions are about half the price of the U.S.A. versions so I can understand the appeal of the cheaper version.
Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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I have one I put on last season .. seems OK Fred
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Thanks Fred. Think I'll grab one and see how it goes. I've got 3 of the OEM plates in the garage, and thought I'd try reforming one using the old Walt Knuckles method. The first try didn't go so well. #2 came out better but could still use some tweaking. Before I screw up all 3 I'd like to have a backup ready to go!
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Hitting on all eight cylinders
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This is a timely discussion for me. I have everything removed from my 312 block except the oil filter plate. I've tried prying, scraping all of the paint out of the rim of it but it doesn't want to move and I don't want to bend it. My next step is to try heating and cooling it to break whatever bonds are holding it in. Gaskets, glue, old sludge, etc. Is there a good trick to get it out in shape? Thanks,
'55 T-Bird Battle Ground, WA
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Is the problems it just won't turn but you have a good grip on the nut or is that the socket won't grab the nut to get a good grip. If it's the latter, look at the socket your using - most likely it is chamfered at the top. This is what causes it to slip. Grind down the top so the chamfer is gone and then try to remove. Dad's Bird (3/14/2024)
This is a timely discussion for me. I have everything removed from my 312 block except the oil filter plate. I've tried prying, scraping all of the paint out of the rim of it but it doesn't want to move and I don't want to bend it. My next step is to try heating and cooling it to break whatever bonds are holding it in. Gaskets, glue, old sludge, etc. Is there a good trick to get it out in shape? Thanks,
54 Victoria 312; 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312 Forever Ford Midland Park, NJ
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Hitting on all eight cylinders
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Hi, I got the threaded adapter out just fine but the formed metal plate that the oil filter gasket seals against won't come out of the block for me. I am afraid I'll bend it if I pry any harder than I have. I hope that makes sense. Thanks.
'55 T-Bird Battle Ground, WA
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Some of those adapter plates just take some brute force to remove them from the block. A wide blade screw driver or pry bar inserted in the slotted hole with a steady prying pressure tends to break most of those plates loose from the existing gasket. If it’s a plate with the three holes, those are more difficult to remove as the holes are smaller and do not accommodate a wide blade pry bar. I always replace those plates with the three holes with the later model slotted plates so destroying them during removal is not a show stopper. While it’s rare to damage the plate beyond being repaired, it is a replaceable item if too heavily damaged when removing it. Keep in mind that the 223 Ford six cylinders from the same era used the same oil filter adapter plates.
Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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