I am going to be changing the intake manifold on my 292.While I have it off I would like to install a PCV and close off the road draft tube.Can I use the stock valley pan or do I need to find one with the hole and baffle in it?The holley carb has a large non-ported vacuum fitting which is for a PCV hose I assume.How can I install the PCV valve?I have looked at some of the previous threads on this topic and still am not clear on how to install this on mine.Thanks

  

To use your existing it will need to come off anyway, so it would be better to get a later pan.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Although the rear of the valley pan is the accepted spot for a PCV valve installation, it can be installed in a valve cover.  But if the intake is going to be off, then pulling off the valley cover is only two bolts and a gasket away.  The valley covers with the rear mounted road draft tube opening in them are already sized very closely to accepting the aftermarket PCV grommets so not much more is needed to using those particular covers in place of the covers that do not have a hole already in them.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks Ted,Does anyone have one of these that I can buy at a reasonable cost and is willing to Fedex it to me in Canada.It would be easier if That person had a Paypal account also.Thanks Mark

oldcarmark@hotmail.com

  

Ted, I have usually experienced having to loosen or pull one head, to remove the valley cover because of the baffle. Is this not the norm? I know that some vc's have been trimmed to compensate for this. Or is it just me?

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

You should'nt have to remove a head to pull the valley cover. By picking up the valley cover as far as you can and pulling to one side or the other> as far as it will go then you can usually tilt it and sometimes with the help of a screwdriver and sometimes without it should come right out. It's worked every time for me.

-Gary Burnette-

I've not been able to pull one out without removing a head.  I suppose it could be pried out but I don't like doing that.  I modify mine during assembly so they can be easily removed.


Lawrenceville, GA

ok, so Mark, according to varied replies here if you pry it out be careful you don't bend or distort it as they don't like to reseal very well-again just my experience. make sure you get a good gasket seal when you go back on. I've seen guys trim the baffle so it will be an easier off and on, if there is a next go around.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Thanks for your input.However the one I take off is not the one going back on-providing someone on this site will help me out and sell me the one I need.When I put it back on it will be trimmed a little.Thanks Mark

  

Mark,



Be advised that most valley pans have been distorted by over-tightening. Attempts to pound them true/straight seldom successful. OEM cork gasket only will usually leak (eventually).

A narrow bead of silicon (no gasket) works well, but won't hold paint, and rules out simple removal. Some people drill the block and pan for sheet metal screws (you can place them under the manifold where they can't be seen) if cork prefered. Thick neoprene gaskets are also available, which could be siliconed to the pan (to allow easy removal), which would at least cut the leak possibilities in half.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA