Solution delivered in the mail. New bung and sensor. Installed yesterday went swimmingly. Initially I thought the bung was too big, but I hit it with a hammer and it went right on in. 

Special thanks for the callout to make sure the taper was correct before installing. I checked like 8 times. haha.

You should be able to make what you need. I welded a 3/8” iron pipe nipple to a 1/2” threaded rod. For 1/4” I threaded a bolt close to the same size. Use something like a 1”x 11/4” iron pipe reducing coupling, some nuts and washers and they pull right out.


  Dennis in Lititz PA

For a tool to remove the temperature sensor bungs from the cylinder heads, I welded the appropriate sized NPT pipe nipple to the bottom of a slide hammer.  Hasn’t failed yet in removing those bungs.

Just be careful when reinstalling the bung that you install it in with the wide side of the threads ‘UP’.  Installing it upside down will have you removing the bung as the taper in the threads will be in the wrong direction thus preventing the temp sending unit from being screwed into the bung.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I'm having trouble making a puller. I might just give up and plug the hole, and move the sensor to the front. Thanks for all the input and alternate solutions folks!

Rather than drilling and tapping the thermostat housing for a temp gauge sensor, I installed an American-Volt 1.75" upper radiator hose adapter/w 1/8 NPT sensor port (SKU: AV-F44). The adapter is black anodized cast aluminum and also drilled & tapped/w screw for attaching a ground wire (if needed). $19.99/w free shipping. I'm happy with it, but the hose clamps are cheap and just barely large enough. I will replace them with 2 1/2-in Gates stainless clamps.  

that is a mess, sorry guys./ what I did was drill and tap a hole dash side of therm. take the sending unit a be sure to get  correct tap size. now you have the temp in a better spot you will get true temp of your engine. as the  place Henry had for sender is  only part of the temp. before the water cools the cylinder head on its way to therm, and then  rad.

There is a tool to remove the bung. I got one too bad you don't live near.  The bung is just pressed it so maybe you could make up some type of puller to remove it.

To stop any confusion, I always refer to the heads as passenger or driver's side - Of course,if you live down under this could cause some confusion.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Sorry, my previous career terminology does not translate to these things. Bank 1 is where cylinder 1 is.

Can you help me understand how to correctly move the bung so it doesn't leak? These heads don't have one, but I have three other sets, so I've got access to one. There isn't any corrosion that I see, so that's good.

Thanks!