Well. I finally got my heads installed. Torqued. I was careful to check the one I was installing was for the correct side... but I didn't check the second one I just installed it.

Turns out they were both set up as bank 1 heads. So. Now what? Should I just put a freeze plug in the bank 2 head and relocate the temp sender to near the t-stat?
Is there even a second option?

Always problems.  

Also, I know I was able to search forum once, but can't for the life of me figure out how I did so.

You can reconfigure the heads for use on either bank.



Lawrenceville, GA

When you say ‘bank 1’, are you referring to the left side head or the right side head?  Cylinder 1 head would be the right bank while the cylinder 5 head would be the left bank.  The distributor side head would be the right side head while the non-distributor side head would be the left side head.

As Charlie brings up, the heads can be configured for either side by moving the freeze plug or sending unit bung to the appropriate spot at the rear of the engine.  A word of caution here is to watch out for erosion at the hole that needs to have a plug or sending unit bung installed if that head was originally installed on the opposite side of the engine.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Sorry, my previous career terminology does not translate to these things. Bank 1 is where cylinder 1 is.

Can you help me understand how to correctly move the bung so it doesn't leak? These heads don't have one, but I have three other sets, so I've got access to one. There isn't any corrosion that I see, so that's good.

Thanks!

There is a tool to remove the bung. I got one too bad you don't live near.  The bung is just pressed it so maybe you could make up some type of puller to remove it.

To stop any confusion, I always refer to the heads as passenger or driver's side - Of course,if you live down under this could cause some confusion.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

that is a mess, sorry guys./ what I did was drill and tap a hole dash side of therm. take the sending unit a be sure to get  correct tap size. now you have the temp in a better spot you will get true temp of your engine. as the  place Henry had for sender is  only part of the temp. before the water cools the cylinder head on its way to therm, and then  rad.

Rather than drilling and tapping the thermostat housing for a temp gauge sensor, I installed an American-Volt 1.75" upper radiator hose adapter/w 1/8 NPT sensor port (SKU: AV-F44). The adapter is black anodized cast aluminum and also drilled & tapped/w screw for attaching a ground wire (if needed). $19.99/w free shipping. I'm happy with it, but the hose clamps are cheap and just barely large enough. I will replace them with 2 1/2-in Gates stainless clamps.  

I'm having trouble making a puller. I might just give up and plug the hole, and move the sensor to the front. Thanks for all the input and alternate solutions folks!