Ted.  THANKS for coming in on this topic.  Your and other Forum members' willingness to share their knowledge and experience have enabled me to pursue numerous y-block changes and modification with positive success without the pain of trial and error and the frustration of spending money and losing ground doing something!

Thanks to all who make the time to participate in this Forum!  

Regards,
Charlie 


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

The very first thing you need to ask yourself when buying/building a vehicle is, "What do I want it to do?" If it's a build, then ask yourself, "How am I going to get there?" Unfortunately, people often miss their goal by buying parts that don't work together. Even something as simple as an air cleaner can set you back if it won't allow for a carb spacer, or it doesn't provide sufficient space between carb vents and the lid, or you can't close your hood. Even when you've done your homework, sometimes things don't work as you expected. This forum exists, so we can share what we know, and ask when we don't know. 

By the way, I have a never-been-used air cleaner/w two elements that will either go to someone in need or taken to a swap meet. Fortunately, it's a small investment, not worth the cost/effort to return.

Linking to Mummert's ford-y-block.com site from here, he lists an Aluminum fly wheel at 15 LB. & 2  steel units at 26 lb & 32 lb..


Paul

I will add that you will see aluminum flywheels in boat applications.  Only a small part of that has to do with boats not needing a clutch to put the prop into motion.  The major reason for an aluminum flywheel in a boat is for overall weight reduction which improves buoyancy and overall weight balance of the boat.
 
The horsepower attributes of an engine do change with the use of heavier versus lighter flywheels but not in the direction you would think.  When going to the dyno competitions, the flywheel weight is taken into consideration knowing that heavier flywheels will tend to improve the HP numbers, not the other way around.  On jet boat applications, heavier flywheels help to increase the rpm capability of the engine thus helping the top end mph numbers.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Back in '63 when I was racing my street/strip '56 T-Bird, I installed an aluminium flywheel because I was leery of cast iron 'wheels exploding at high rpm.  Stock class rules required stock flywheels, so I was cheating then.  The next year NHRA allowed any flywheel, so I was legal again.  I was convinced the aluminium wheel was quicker in the 1/4, but probably only in my mind.  It was liveable on the street because of my 4.55 Studebaker rear gear and T85-OD transmission.  The Bird is now street only with the same 4.55/T85-OD with a stock iron flywheel.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Thank you all for the information. Plenty to digest. Worse case I can sell the flywheel and afford the McCloud Clutch.
Richard

Wow. What a revelation.  An alum. flywheel (much like multiple carbs) was typically a standard ‘hot rod’ speed equip. upgrade back in the 50s., and usually considered merely a trade-off of street-ability for max. acceleration.  Now after all these years, it’s finally revealed as possibly only good for circle-track racing? I’m dumbfounded.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I'm right there with you, Daniel.  I couldn't have said it better!

I'm too soon old . . . and too late smart!   

Regards,
Charlie Brown


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York