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Got to think about my engine/car sitting. I have started it a couple of times warmed it up, but that’s it. If your not going to run an engine for a while, is it a good idea to loosen the rockers, or maybe remove the entire shafts to unload spring pressure.
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You should be good with your current routine. Start it and warm it up once a month or so. I wouldn't bother with loosening/removing the rockers; you'd have to readjust the valves/install the rockers when you're ready to drive it. It takes a good long while (years maybe) for the valve springs to take a set.
Are you not allowed to go anywhere during the lockdown, even if you don't stop and go in anywhere?
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[quote] Richard (1/30/2021)
Got to think about my engine/car sitting. I have started it a couple of times warmed it up, but that’s it. If your not going to run an engine for a while, is it a good idea to loosen the rockers, or maybe remove the entire shafts to unload spring pressure. [/quote I hope your exhaust system is stainless, or at least aluminized. It usually requires a healthy drive to get it hot enough to expel the corrosive moisture that typically rots it out when just started for short periods.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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If you have a high-lift cam/w higher-pressure springs, you might want to consider loosening the rockers. As it already has been said, it's not a good idea to frequently run an engine if it doesn't reach normal operating temperature.
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richerds on the right track, depending where the vehicle is. on the west coast Vancouver canada. i would run a bit of oil down the carb as we are more prone to moisture and rust. if you have converted to full pressure rockers (no spill tubes you are home free) as plenty of oil at rockers, if your temp. comes up to some heat at heater,even better.
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I've never really been a fan of simply starting the engine and idling in the winter months, I can't figure out what it is supposed to accomplish?
It won't particularly help the battery any. It also seems to me it would only increase internal condensation buildup, (and oil dilution), assuming internal rust or corrosion is the concern. It is hard on the exhaust system as well. What I like to do generally regardless of season is shutdown a fully warmed up engine, as measured by the oil temperature, not coolant temperature. The only way an engine reaches normal operating temperature is under load, then I know any oil contamination or sludge and gum forming deposits are burned off. "Fogging oil" isn't a bad idea for long slumbers. I like Marvel's oil for this.
I've taken to running the carburetor dry over the season, versus letting the stuff alleged to be gasoline sold today sit in the carb bowl for months at a time and get stale. This year I went through the carb completely on GP. Looked pretty good inside throughout, tho noted a very light powdery coating or residue.. Aluminum or zinc carb alloy corrosion?
One other reason to maybe relax the rockers and close all the valves would be to kind of prevent varmints or critters from setting up shop inside the engine. I stuff the exhaust pipes with something (no, not potatos!) to prevent vermin access that way, and leave the hood up. I've read lots of accounts of mice making nests deep inside engines. Interesting subject!
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Good advice, Tedster.
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