Florida, I have run dual quads on an Eldelbrock for 5 years with absolutely no problems. I do not have anyway near Teds experience but do have some multi carb time. I've have always ran progressive linkage and for me found the Edelbrock internal passages are just fine for normal driving. I made a Uni-Syn (Summit) adapter for my tops. I made one small adjustment after a check 2 years ago. They are a godsend. I used no rubber in my fuel and filter lines

I bought a linkage kit for a 427 Ford repo and made some of my own. Mine are set normal (not reversed) as I have a lot of room. I did not use modern Holley's so I did not have a Fitment problem. I idle off both and run on the rear. Reversed it would be just the opposite. Vacuum for the dist is off the running carb. I use the stock Ford "monkey motion" foot feed by making a shorter arm.

One of the internal choke tubes was good so I have a choke on the rear carb. Remember to tap and plug them if they are bad prior to installing the manifold. That exhaust leak noise will bug you and off it all comes to fix it. The choke is set to only slightly close but enough to sit on the first notch on the raise idle. It's off in a mile or 2 or I can "pop" the throttle and do it even before I leave the garage. I'm in So Cal and chokes are really a small convenience. Dead cold engine starts best by flooring the foot feed to squirt fuel into both ends. From then on I never touch the throttle just like a modern car.

Y-Blocks are a good looking engine made better by dual quads. I'm now a just a crusier but stick my foot in it once in a while to "clean it out". There is nothing like the sound of wide open 8 barrels running up a freeway blowing past 100 mph. Good luck and let's see some photos..

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Depending on where you are located, you might find the disc brake aluminum Caliper paint/or aluminum Wheel paint to your liking.  It is high temperature resistant, stain resistant, and chemical resistant due to being used on disc calipers.  I have used it on aluminum parts and it leaves a nearly identical finish, lasts well, and gasoline doesn't seem to bother the finish.  I have actually used it inside an intake manifold to cover epoxy, and it is holding up well.  Joe-JDC

JDC

Is Powder  Coating available as a clear Application?

  

I wouldn't clear the manifold.

I did it to my Blue Thunder and other aluminum parts.  It looks great initially, but yellows and wears over time, not looking so great.


Lawrenceville, GA

I received my second Holley 1848-1 carburetor and it looks good.  My FM255 manifold has been bead lasted and looks like new.  I have heard some people paint cast aluminum manifolds with clear spray paint. I have never done this.   Is this worth doing?

The carbs were mounted backwards on T-Birds to provide clearance at the front edge of the hood scoop opening.  Probably was a response to an engineering OhOh when they discovered that the hood hit the float bowl of the front carb.  The float bowl is not centered to the base of the teapot carb, so turning the carb around moved the float bowl toward the rear of the hood scoop.  The crossover bellcrank in Ted's picture is a T-Bird part, the rest of the linkage is not.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Is there any advantage to mounting the carbs backward?

While the following two pictures show a pair of model 2140 Teapot carbs being used on a dual quad intake, this will give an idea of how the linkage looks when using a bellcrank so that the two carbs face the rear rather than to the front.
 

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I'm OK without a choke in Florida.  Two pumps, start it up, a minute to warm it up and I am good to go.  Can't find my snow shovel. 

The 465 cfm carb is a 4160 style, not the ones in the above link. 

... whoops ... mis-read ...

I thought the OP was stating carb style, not CFM rating.

THANX for catching that ...

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