FORD DEARBORN (7/30/2019)
Good to hear you solved the problem More than likely the cut-out relay contacts developed a high resistance as this is what extinguishes the idiot light by providing a low resistance path around the bulb when closed. Often a little cleanup on these contacts will restore the low resistance. This may save you from possibly purchasing an off-shore regulator. Hope this helps, JEFF................
Many on this site are old enough to remember the proverbial neighborhood ‘fixit shop’, where you could take your toaster, etc. to be repaired. Few could have envisioned (back when Y-Block equipped cars/trucks were still rolling off the Dearborn assembly lines) a world where it was cheaper/more convenient to merely toss expensive appliances rather than bother to get them fixed.
My impression is that regulator adjustment is largely a lost art. Assuming your bench-testing instruments are accurate/properly calibrated, you posses the specialized tools/knowledge, and calculate all considerations (temp. variation, cover position, metal fatigue, etc., not to mention the value of your time/labor), will the result likely be any improvement over the quality control testing standards of whatever Chinese factory is routinely supplying your trusted parts supply source?
Whatever. I may just clean up the contacts and throw the old regulator in my used parts bin, since it isn’t really the kind of part you would need to buy new anyway to carry around as an emergency backup (unless for a long/cross country trip) since smart battery charger/maintainer use has become much more commonplace, and even if the gen. fails, a fully charged Optima battery will take me most anywhere (by daylight) I need to go, AND back.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA