Can't find find anything specific in the '57 shop manual re sealant for a Fel Pro, rubber style Valley cover gasket.. I have on hand Permatex Ultra Copper & #1 Form a Gasket, both in tubes. & brush on High Tack. The latter I'd prefer not to use as it's messy to work with. Also, can someone refresh my forgetful mind as to whether or not the intake manifold gaskets need  any type of spray or sealent?  Thanks  


Paul

I think the "tack' stuff might help you hold it in place . The main thing here is to make sure the cover is straight and to try not bend it when getting it back on, and not over tightening those bolts... 



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I use the Ultra copper RTV on most of the gaskets, rubber, paper  or cork, in places where oil or water is involved. Very thin coating. I use it on the rocker cover gaskets between the gasket and the cover, never on the head side.  The gasket will stick to the cover even upon removal and will just peel off the cover if I want to remove it. 

Another thing I like about the Ultra Copper is that it doesn't show much on the 55-57 the TBird red engine  paint


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Drill and Tap for 4-6 Machine Screws around the Valley Pan. No more Leaks. I seem to recall Ted uses just plain white Grease to hold Gaskets in Place for the Intake.

  

If using a tin valley cover, first make sure it’s flat and not distorted.  I use only the black fibre valley cover gaskets but the following sealing instructions should also work for the rubber or neoprene valley cover gaskets.
 
For the valley cover gaskets, I use a very thin bead of RTV at the block and allow it to ‘skin’ over before laying the gasket in place on the block.  I then put a similar thin bead on the top of the gasket and allow it to ‘skin’ over.  The valley cover is then put in place and tightened only to the point that the two rubber grommets only push the rubber part of the grommet even with the grommet steel washers.
 
For the rubber valve cover gaskets that do not have the tabs to hold them in place, I use 3M Trim Cement.  It’s available in both yellow and black but I use the black simply due to it not being as visible for any excess that might get squeezed out.  Use it minimally but apply it to both contact surfaces and allow it to get tacky before actually applying the gasket to the valve cover rail of the valve cover.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks all. (a late reply) However, no one commented on whether or not the the Intake Manifold gaskets, need any sort of coating?. I believe the ones here were made by Victor..


Paul

Go To - https://www.permatex.com/product-category/gasketing/gasket-sealants/

Read HIGH-TACK SPRAY-A-GASKET and see if that helps.

____________________________

For the intake gaskets, I use white grease.  In lieu of the grease, Copper Coat could be used.  It is important to check the threaded holes where the four intake manifold studs go into the heads and insure that they are blind holes.  If the holes are open to the water, then sealant needs to be put on the threads before putting the studs back in place.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I put copper RTV only on the water passages, the rest nothing





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Ted just clarifying. Copper Coat here is a type of high temperature grease used on exhaust studs and alike to prevent then seizing. Are we talking about the same product?