I actually wouldn't use bar and chain oil.   No, I've never actually read up on any chemicals in it.   You can still buy non-detergent 30 weight.   I did by accident this spring.  I was changing the oil in my mom's mower,  and picked up a bottle of STP SAE30 at Autozone    About a month after changing it I looked at the bottle to discover it was non-detergent.  All the new mowers today use regular detergent  oil.   So I changed it again.   

Thanks for the feedback.  My engine is coming home from the machine shop on Thursday.  This is not my first engine build, but it's been a while.   Lots of great tips on this forum.  You guys are great!

I do have one question. I like the idea of priming the oil pump with the heads off so you can view the oil flow to the heads.  Did you make a special tool to turn the oil pump drive? 

I used my cordless drill.  You can buy an adapter that fits the drill with a square ratchet drive on the other end.   I bought mine at Harbor Freight.  Adapter for 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive came as a set.   I used my 1/4 drive socket set.  1/4in deep well socket with the longest extension I had.  Hooked up to the adapter and drill.   I did mine with everything together and valve covers off.  You can see the oil coming out of the weep holes on the rockers.  I turned the crank once in a while by hand and then ran drill some more.   Remember,  counter clockwise!

I have a tool that is designed just for that purpose. I've had it so many years I don't recall where I bought it, sorry.
I'm sure a google search would find one..
https://www.npdlink.com/1948-1979-ford-truck/engine/oil-pump-parts/oil-pump-priming-tool

I use and ordinary speed wrench, a 3/8 to 1/4 drive adapter and extension and a 1/4 deep socket to prime.  I works very well.  I tape the socket to the extension so nothing gets lost.  Remember to turn counter clock wise.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ