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Traction bars

Posted By MoonShadow 6 Years Ago
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MoonShadow
Question Posted 6 Years Ago
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I have a set of the early thunderbird traction bars that mount from the rear end bolts to the frame. I also have a set of ladder bars about the same length. I'm thinking that the regular traction bars would be better on the street. Any comments or opinions?

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Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
miker
Posted 6 Years Ago
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I had a set of Traction Masters, made by them to the original specs, for several years. Bolted to the spring plate, and bolted to a welded bracket near (or at) the front spring mount. Worked well, didn’t really know they were there until the wheel hop didn’t happen.

miker
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Rono
Posted 6 Years Ago
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I have a pair of Lakewood traction bars on my 56 Customline. They bolted right up and work pretty well. Very little wheel hop. I run a 9" rear with 3.70 posi gears.




http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/4a19e870-e870-4f63-a0a4-db5b.jpg  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID



miker
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Got me to thinking about ladder bars vs traction bars. One of many articles.

http://www.competitionengineering.com/content/understanding-basics-chassis-suspension-traction-equipment

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
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LordMrFord
Posted 6 Years Ago
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I want to eliminate the wheel hop also but with 2 inch lowering blocks and air shocks I dont believe traction bars would fit under the springs.
Ladder bars are prohibited by law and four links got too much job and there not much space for those.


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Vic Correnti
Posted 6 Years Ago
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How about making an adjustable pinion stubber?

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/7393d096-cbf0-4ed0-bfdc-c4b0.jpg  Vic Correnti


LordMrFord
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Vic Correnti (7/1/2018)
How about making an adjustable pinion stubber?




I dont know how that work with air shocks when height might be what ever it is.


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RB
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Guys, given what you can't do, about the only option you have left is the old trick of adding clamps the the front half of the leaf spring to make it more rigid. This makes it act somewhat like a ladder bar, reducing spring wrap which is what causes wheel hop.. Google "MOPAR superstock leaf springs" and you can read how it is done.. Also shocks are a big part of wheel hop problems.. You need a lot of compression damping and less rebound damping. If I get a chance I can take a picture of how I set up my 56 Mecury with the clamped leafs.
MoonShadow
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Thanks for the responses. The lowering does complicate this issue. I am running spring clamps now but may research more into their placement. I'm not sure what to do with the shocks. I'm using 60's Ford pickup front shocks on the rear to get more travel when changing tires. I don't know about changing the rate or buying shocks that are correct. I've even looked at the over rider setups but that means cutting the floorboard. The one think that struck me as a possible was to add the extra half leaf to the front of the springs like I've seen done in the past. The adjustable pinion snubber does sound good but it would be a pita on the road. I would have to jack the car up and lower the adjustment for street driving. If it works that wouldn't be the worst thing. 

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
Dave V
Posted 6 Years Ago
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I've also considered installing the half spring like a slapper bar to my 56 Fairlane to help eliminate wheel hop but my concern is that will this affect the ride of the vehicle when you hit a bump and the springs need to deflect will the slapper bar keep this from happening or clunk when they bottom out. Dave

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