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Posted By evileyepigeon 7 Years Ago
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evileyepigeon
Question Posted 7 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)

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Last Active: 7 Years Ago
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Thanks in advance for anyones help on this topic.  I recently purchased a used 292 block from a 63 ford truck.   The current motor in my 64 ford f100 is still chugging along but is very worn and seeping oil from everywhere.  This newer motor is believed to only have 60,000 miles on it and the compression numbers are great.  I want to tear down this new motor just enough to replace all the seals.  Does anyone have any suggestion for parts to replace or trouble areas to look for?  I don't mind throwing a little money toward it, but i just can justify the thousands it would take for a full rebuild.  The truck only get used for a couple thousand miles a year.  Low end torque paramount for my application, so i'm staying largely stock.   Also, it looks like the drain tubes for the rockers have been crimped.  I'm assuming this was an attempt to pressurize them.  Any thoughts on that method?

                     Thank you,
                              Trevor

Tedster
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Supercharged

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Here's thread on another forum site that should be useful to you. He wanted to just get a Y block going "without spending a lot of cash". Lots of pics.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/y-block-overhaul.1017969/
evileyepigeon
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

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I appreciate the response. Looks like there is a lot of good information there.
Ted
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Consider replacing the stock grade 5 or grade 6 head bolts with a set of grade eight head bolts.  The stock lower hardness grade head bolts are notorious for stretching and being at the forefront of head gasket sealing problems later down the road.  And when those factory head bolts get to be 55 years old, they just get worse.  I’m also in favor of the composition head gaskets in lieu of the factory steel shim head gaskets.  Keep in mind that there will be a 0.3-0.4 decrease in compression ratio when going from steel shim to composition head gaskets unless the decks and/or heads are milled in which to compensate.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


evileyepigeon
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

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Thanks, that is great advice.  The grade 8 bolts will be any easy swap for me.  I was planning on getting Mummerts upgraded head gaskets.  I was on the fence about having the heads milled, but the thicker gasket may have just made that decision easier.
evileyepigeon
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)

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OK, there has been a new troubling development.  I started taking off the intake manifold and realized the engine i purchased has mismatched heads. One side is the C1TE that i expected to find.  The other is marked COAE.  It looks like these may have different compression ratios.  I'm assuming these are not compatible.  My other option is a set of NOS heads i have been sitting on for years.  They are not marked externally on the head but have ct3z 6049-fg marked near the pushrod holes. Any thoughts?

miker
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Here’s the link to Mummert’s site with the head casting info. There’s way more info on his site, so check the whole thing out.

http://www.ford-y-block.com/cylinderheadchart.htm

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
charliemccraney
Posted 7 Years Ago
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The C3TZ heads will be closest to original for the '64.  They aren't anything great but they are new and will match, so that is a benefit.  You can easily have a grand in parts and machining getting those heads ready to bolt on, though - check with local machine shops for labor and use Mummert's site or others to price parts.

The C0 and C1 heads are close enough that they should work ok together, though not ideal.  Many engines have been running with mismatched heads.


Lawrenceville, GA
evileyepigeon
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (14 reputation)

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Thanks for the help. I suspect I’ll end up having the nos head built up to satisfy my ocd. At least I’ll know where they have been.
MoonShadow
Posted 7 Years Ago
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What do you want this engine to do? Be dependable or go fast? If you want to go fast look at the Mummert aluminum heads. If you are thinking of sourcing and buying good new old stock heads you will probably pay enough to make the aluminum heads worth the money. And they are something around 50 horse power bolt on's. There are several engine builders on this site like John Mummert, Ted Eaton and Timmy McMasters than can do an engine to whatever standard you want.



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire


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