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6v to 12v swap

Posted By LuciFord 8 Years Ago
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LuciFord
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

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Thinking about doing a 12v swap in my 55' ford. Does anyone have a write up about it anywhere? I can't seem to find info about it. Everyone just says "it's easy, you gotta do it!" And that's about it. Or gets way too technical with no just straight answers. I swapped my old 66' scruby years ago and a couple others but it's been so long I can't remember.
Dave5564
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Why not just go to a 8 volt battery? Lots of starting power, brighter light, horn is louder and your radio still works fine.
Meandean
Posted 8 Years Ago
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http://www.ebay.com/gds/6-to-12-Volt-Conversion-1955-Ford-/10000000001571127/g.html
Lou
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Other than cutting the value of your car by 40%, what do you expect the 12 volt conversion to do? 
Dobie
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Dave5564 (7/31/2017)
Why not just go to a 8 volt battery? Lots of starting power, brighter light, horn is louder and your radio still works fine.


A 6v generator will not keep an 8v battery charged but it will die trying. Been there done that, got the T shirt. Sure, you can top it up with a 12v charger if you can put enough resistance between the charger and battery to get it down to around 10v. Much easier in the long run and less frustrating to keep the 6v system or convert to 12v. There are books on how to do it, 5th Avenue Antique Auto sells one, but it really isn't magic. Get a 12v generator or have yours converted by an auto electrical shop, or use an alternator (better choice, IMO). If you stay with a generator you will need a 12v regulator. You will also need to polarize the generator. The polarizing procedure for the generator is to have the wire on the F term of the generator disconnected, and to run a wire from the + term of the battery and touch the F term on the generator to get a spark. That should be your final step in the process. Swap the battery cables so that you have negative ground, change all bulbs to their 12v equivalents and Bob's your uncle. Your radio may or may not be polarity sensitive, some are and I forget which ones. If you have OD best to get a 12v solenoid, the 6v one may or may not last long on 12v depending on its condition. Your starter does not need to be converted. The bendix will hit harder on 12v but it's not really an issue unless you drive the car daily. You will need a 12v starter solenoid and horn relay. You will also need a CVR (cluster voltage regulator) for your instruments. One for a mid 60s Ford product is what you want. Auto parts stores have 'em or can get 'em. You only need 1 CVR to cover all the instruments except the ammeter. The ammeter isn't voltage sensitive but you will need to reverse the direction the wire runs through the loop on the back so it indicates correctly. That's about it. 12v will open you up to a world of easier to find parts not to mention modern accessories if you're so inclined. None of the switches are voltage sensitive but if your ign switch is original you may want to replace it.
paul2748
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Google 6 to 12 volt conversion.  Lots of write ups are shown.

Going to 12 volts is the better thing to do..  Once you do it you will wonder why you didn't do it sooner.  Only real problem is the radio as far as I know.  If your wires are in good condition, you don't even have to change them, but if they are original wires your on thin ground after over 60 years. 

8 volt battery is not the way to go.  Some have done it successfully, but you will have the problems mentioned above.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Lou
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Paul, please explain why a 12 volt conversion is the "better thing to do"
FYI ...6 volt Radio is no problem, just put a resistor in the line.
In 50 years of playing with olcars I found that almost every 6 volt car that was hard starting needed new brushes put in the starter. 
Florida_Phil
Posted 8 Years Ago
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I'm new to this forum, but I'm wrestling with this issue right now.  My '55 Bird is totally original and untouched.   I would like the advantages of 12 volts, but I'm concerned about reducing it's value.  My radio, clock, OD and generator work just like Ford built it.  I'm removing the Load-A-Matic distributor and swapping in a '57 distributor with points.  The heads will be swapped for '57 parts along with the manifold and carb.  I think it will work just fine with 6 volts.  I'll keep all the parts for the next owner in case he wants to see a Tea Pot under the hood, I don't.   I guess it comes down to how you are going to use the car.   My car will only be driven on weekends, to car shows or lunch once in a while.  If I was building a daily driver, I could see a 12 volt conversion.


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oldcarmark
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (8/1/2017)
I'm new to this forum, but I'm wrestling with this issue right now.  My '55 Bird is totally original and untouched.   I would like the advantages of 12 volts, but I'm concerned about reducing it's value.  My radio, clock, OD and generator work just like Ford built it.  I'm removing the Load-A-Matic distributor and swapping in a '57 distributor with points.  The heads will be swapped for '57 parts along with the manifold and carb.  I think it will work just fine with 6 volts.  I'll keep all the parts for the next owner in case he wants to see a Tea Pot under the hood, I don't.   I guess it comes down to how you are going to use the car.   My car will only be driven on weekends, to car shows or lunch once in a while.  If I was building a daily driver, I could see a 12 volt conversion.

Anything that You do as far as changing to 12 Volts or later Distributor/Carb is not a permanent non reversible modification. Keep all the Parts You change in a Box and if You go to sell the Car You can either spend a Weekend changing it back or supply the Parts with the Car. Its Your Car to drive and enjoy. As far as I am concerned these Mods make it more reliable and driveable.

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DANIEL TINDER
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Unless you HAVE to install a lot of modern electronic accessories (?), heavy gauge battery cables (with clean connections), an Optima 6V battery (and matching-type trickle charger), and a fresh (high-torque rebuilt is best) starter is all you will need for reliable starting if the motor is kept properly tuned/setup. A lot less trouble & expense than 12V conversion. If you are one of the few who have the tools & expertise to properly adjust the regulator, you could probably get by without a charger. I can even use my 12V GPS & phone charger with a simple home-built converter/transformer that plugs into the lighter socket.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA


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