Cardone is a company that remanufactures all kinds of parts.  As such, it is more or less a stock pump, available through most auto parts  stores.


Lawrenceville, GA

They are also available as a new not rebuilt Unit from Cardone ( 58-200 New 55-21110 rebuilt) and also from Airtex (AW488). I changed mine while I had it apart because its at least 20 Years old and only a matter of Time before it would have let Me down.

  

standerd ford rad with new core on my 57. rad shops hear use some sonic system not good. as hot tanks not allowed,if they dismantle rad to rod the cores, a new core is little more $. as cores age they clog up..water pump is a exchange from local parts. same for the stat.   champion cooling supplied atom. rad for my 49f1 pickup with 292 y. my 32 ford which i no longer have had a shampion rad and a 302 no issues with any of them. re my 57 we had had 85 dg temp still no heating issue

I did notice one thing I am using a mopar160 thermostat with 3ea 3/32 holes drilled in it, also I have a  blocked off bypass, problem
I replaced my temp sending device in the left side back corner of head it would go to zero on start up after 3 minutes of running
it would go to max, though I had a bad sensor, come to find out I have a hot spot in that area and I don't know how many more
after the thermostat opened it would go back to normal operating temp. With the cap off It would boil over as the thermostat opened, then go back
to normal circulating. I am going to open the bypass again and try that.

Agreed, with the by-pass blocked there is no flow within the engine and will tend to get hot spots

When You changed Stat etc did You let it run with Cap off until Stat opened and let the Air in the System escape? I just did mine as you know with regular Stat( removed the Robert Shaw) and bypass restricted and had no problem. I have a Mechanical Gauge in front part of Intake( drilled Hole and Tapped) as well as the Dash Gauge. Both Gauges moved up as Engine warmed up.

  

Only specific trouble I've had, was with the 180º version of the Robertshaw style of t-stat. Didn't behave at all, the one I tested in the engine was inconsistent (as reported by others). With the 160º back in there - it all worked as I expected. The "leaking" (drilled) version slows the warm-up - and switching to the smaller pump pulley showed water flow before my temp gun showed enough heat to open the 160º t-stat.
Being sure the system is "burped" is sort of SOP I think - and the t-stat hole mods help to do that.


 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I have tried 3 of the 180 Robert Stats and had the same problem with all 3. I have One of the Napa 170 Stats coming so I will see how that works out. Changing the Rad, 6 Blade Fan, and smaller Pulley has made a big difference already. Temp is much more stable driving or idling at a Light. Doesn't move much from 160 which is what the Stat in it is right now.

  

I haven't had any temperature regulation issues with any Robert Shaw style thermostat USA, or Chinese.  I've had 160 and 180 Mr Gaskets (China), 180 Milodon (USA).  However, none of mine are modified with the holes


Lawrenceville, GA

After many of the comments I took out the plug with the 1/8 hole in the bypass and everything returned to normal.  I am not using a Robertshaw type thermostat and at this point do not plan to.  I plane to do some engine work and am going to try the new space for Tbirds.  I may go to the smaller pulley too.  I really don't have a heating problem, but I want to make sure I don't.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ