I adapted the Hurst that came with the large input toploader that I bought years ago to go through the factory shifter boot on my '57 Bird. Welded the T Bird handle on so it looks stock. Set it up on the floor and all worked well. Installed the trans in the car and it worked fine a couple of years ago. Pulled it and re built the engine. Installed the engine and trans last week. Can't get the trans in reverse. Reverse should be all the way to the left and back according to the shift pattern on the Ford Mustang shift knob for the toploader. When I look at the shift arms on the trans it looks like you would have to go left and foreword to get in reverse instead of back like the shift pattern on the knob. I know it worked in all gears when I had it on the floor a couple of years back. Either memory fade or I am missing something that should be obvious in my old age. Adjusted linkage with 1/4" drill bit in the alignment holes like you are supposed to. Trans was rebuilt by a pro.

I run a Mr. Gasket  verti-gate and the shifter rod, separate shifter for reverse, moves the fork forward to engage reverse. This is with the shifter arm on trans pointing upwards. Maybe this will help.

Shot in the dark, but like above. Reverse the reverse arm (sounds funny) on the trans. Then it works the other way. This assumes the shifter will only back, won't go forward. If that means the rod won't fit, it's a miss in the dark.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Goggled it. The Hurst is over and up, not down like the Ford linkage. That's a start. need to confirm shifter adjustment and tinker with it. Positive I could get it into reverse when it was on the floor a couple of years back. Found a black shifter knob with the right pattern on Ebay.  

Every Hurst shifter I had on a Ford 4sp. was left and up for reverse. Same thing with a T10 4spd.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

Been playing with the shifter today. It will go in to reverse but its really hard to get it in. Pretty much have to hit it over. Pulled the shifter from the car and stuck it in the bench vise. Determined that its not an adjustment issue. Push hard to the left and it goes into reverse. When you take it out of reverse it makes an audible snap. Looked at instructions I have on rebuilding the Hurst and there are apparently no coil springs in it, only flat springs. My guess is that by using the T Bird handle which is 7" shorter than the Hurst, and moving it about two inches to the left to get it to come out in the right place, I have decreased the leverage used to operate the shifter. Simple physics. More leverage, less effort. Less leverage, more effort required. Any suggestions as to a way to make it easier to get in to reverse without using a longer lever? I'm thinking modify the flat spring or remove it? I'm concerned that  may make it too easy to get into reverse at the wrong time.  I can live with it if I have to. Sure would make it interesting if anyone ever stole it. Doubt they would ever find reverse. Suggestions?

I have the Hurst Compision Plus shifter with a short handle and they are known to be hard to shift into reverse. I bought it new in the 70,s and it was like that new. The trick is to slap it to the left to go into reverse, it is the easiest way that I know of without fighting it.

  Vic Correnti

Good to know. Pretty much simple high school physics. Basic leverage. The longer the pry bar, the more you can move and the easier it is to move. Funny how when I was in physics class in high school I kept asking myself when will I ever use any of this. The older I get, the more I seem to refer to it. Thanks. I am pretty sure trying to "fix" it could cause worse problems.