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Y Block Temperature

Posted By Half-dude 9 Years Ago
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Half-dude
Question Posted 9 Years Ago
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Supercharged

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Hey guys


I've posted topics about this before, but I've got some more concrete information now that my car is running well enough to drive long distance. It's about the temperature the engine seems to hover at.

After about half and hour of 50ish mph driving on country roads, the temperature gauge reads just about at the far end of the solid white line, hovering a little higher little lower from then on out.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/1c77757a-23fa-40f3-bb07-7442.jpg

Now I'm not expert on classic engines so the condition of the engine after stopping again when reaching this temperature I'm not sure if they're normal or not. After reaching our stop I lifted the hood to let it cool down a little, there was white/grey some coming from the oil breather, a dribble of coolant coming from the radiator overflow tube, and the inside of the radiator was making a gurgling sound every say.. 2 seconds.
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Bobwanna
Posted 9 Years Ago
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Supercharged

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My main issue is finding one where the Amp meter will read lower then 8 (I still have the original 6 volt system).
[/quote]

Looks like progress on you meter issues for Oil pressure and temperature. As for Voltage versus Amps, I believe most newer instrument packs have Voltage meters that are for 12 Volt cars and do not read lower than 8 Volts. The older under dash units usually had a oil pressure gauge and an Ammeter gauge for 30 Amps. I am not sure of any supplier that has a 6V Voltage meter to fit these panels. Maybe someone on this board can knows - Bob

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oldcarmark
Posted 9 Years Ago
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Supercharged

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Been looking for a 6 Volt Voltmeter also. Not found One anywhere. Buy the best Gauges You can afford. Electrical Type are easier to install but I think the mechanical Ones are more Accurate. Like anything else You get what You pay for quality and accuracy wise.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/339ed844-0bc3-4c73-8368-5dd3.jpg
2721955meteor
Posted 9 Years Ago
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Supercharged

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Most dont seem to get the mesage that 200dgs is not hot,with even a 6 pound cap watter wont boil. hot water is more  eficent  in rejecting heat it the rad. like several posts if your rad is not boiling  over you are not in cricis. I have 2 water temp gauges 1 atback of head 1 at therm end of int. ther is alwayes a differenc of 10 to 15,as the heads create most of the heat, so with the inacurat factory guages 
sender at coolest part of the head, the temp at therm is quite diferent .guage should be at the therm end of intake giveing the temp of both heads and if you have 200dgs ther you are perfect. just my take on it all. 
Half-dude
Posted 9 Years Ago
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Supercharged

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Thank you! I'm happy to know that now. : )



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