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Y Block Temperature

Posted By Half-dude 4 Years Ago
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Bobwanna
Posted 4 Years Ago
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My main issue is finding one where the Amp meter will read lower then 8 (I still have the original 6 volt system).
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Looks like progress on you meter issues for Oil pressure and temperature. As for Voltage versus Amps, I believe most newer instrument packs have Voltage meters that are for 12 Volt cars and do not read lower than 8 Volts. The older under dash units usually had a oil pressure gauge and an Ammeter gauge for 30 Amps. I am not sure of any supplier that has a 6V Voltage meter to fit these panels. Maybe someone on this board can knows - Bob

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oldcarmark
Posted 4 Years Ago
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Been looking for a 6 Volt Voltmeter also. Not found One anywhere. Buy the best Gauges You can afford. Electrical Type are easier to install but I think the mechanical Ones are more Accurate. Like anything else You get what You pay for quality and accuracy wise.

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2721955meteor
Posted 4 Years Ago
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Most dont seem to get the mesage that 200dgs is not hot,with even a 6 pound cap watter wont boil. hot water is more  eficent  in rejecting heat it the rad. like several posts if your rad is not boiling  over you are not in cricis. I have 2 water temp gauges 1 atback of head 1 at therm end of int. ther is alwayes a differenc of 10 to 15,as the heads create most of the heat, so with the inacurat factory guages 
sender at coolest part of the head, the temp at therm is quite diferent .guage should be at the therm end of intake giveing the temp of both heads and if you have 200dgs ther you are perfect. just my take on it all. 
Half-dude
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Thank you! I'm happy to know that now. : )
GREENBIRD56
Posted 4 Years Ago
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At its current stage of equipment, my outfit runs 100º over the ambient temperature - decreasing down to the thermostat opening temp of 185º. This is a result of a series of tests where I either did a "burn down test" at idle in the driveway - or drove the car and jumped out with the infrared thermometer. All of these readings were taken at the thermostat housing - just to be sure they were relevant to each other. Like clockwork - on a day where its 106º or 107º in Tucson - the infrared shows +100º. The 200º+ numbers don't seem to have had any ill effects - other than trying to cook the carb or firewall. I'd like to have a bit more than marginal tolerance - but its going to take a better radiator than the shorty T-bird stocker and probably a more efficient water pump to feed it.

Make sure your radiator has decent fluid in it - and use anti-freeze "coolant". Where pure water will boil at 212º (at sea level) - Ethylene-Glycol 50/50 mix will run the boiling temp up to 223º in an unpressurized system. You get about an additional 2.5º per PSI from the radiator cap - so a 6 pound cap is worth another 15º. The combination of the two will make the system "safe" (from boil over) to 238º. The worst ambient I've seen around here is 126º on the 101 freeway in Phoenix - so it was getting close for sure.


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9ea2bf28-00c4-4772-9ac7-d154.jpg 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona


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