Well, first off just read the new Hot Rod Magazine and congrats to Mr. Eaton on his 292 achievement!  Also read your articles on Balancing a motor and found this very informative!  
With that, torn down the 292 motor to the bear block, pistons indicate it was a .40 over rebuild, no sign of cam is worn, lifters are not marked, pistons look good and the  cylinder walls look good.  Now that this is done, I want to store the block away for the time being as I have a body/wiring/all brakes to do, so what is the best way to keep the block for probably a year maybe more? Secondly, is there anything I could/should reuse when rebuilding or go with my gut feeling and just go with replacing everything?  jp




Don't grow up, it's a TRICK!

If storing the engine apart for an extended period of time, then it’s best to leave all parts oily and keep them in a climate controlled area.  Condensation as a result of temperature changes is at the top of the list for things to avoid when storing any engine parts.  Never vat parts prior to storage if that can be avoided.  If parts do end up being cleaned, then reoil and bag them.  Beyond that, put as much as you can in sealed bags which will help to keep moisture, dust, and bugs out of everything.  Keeping all the parts in larger boxes will keep everything together so they can be found later.  Any small parts that end up getting separated makes for other problems when you go to put the engine back together.
 
The parts retained during a typical rebuild will include the block, crankshaft, connecting rods, tin (valve covers, oil pan, valley cover, etc), timing cover, damper, cam retaining hardware, rocker arms, all the bolts, and the cylinder heads.  Include the pistons in this list if the bores are serviceable at their current sizing and the pistons are not worn beyond specifications.  If reusing the camshaft, then the lifters need to be reinstalled back in the same holes from which they were removed.  Careful examination of the remaining parts may find that even these may need to be replaced.  If you haven't measured anything yet, then keep everything for now.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Much appreciated  Tks

Don't grow up, it's a TRICK!

Ok I am assuming one starts with the block when building a motor, so with the 292 block being bored .040 over by Sears back in the day, should one have the block further checked for issues or anything else?   

Don't grow up, it's a TRICK!

Before taking the block to a shop to have it cleaned, remove the oil galley plugs and clean up those holes with the appropriate NPT taps.  Some shops don’t do this unless specifically asked.  You can also help out the shops’ cleaning solutions by pre-scraping all gasket surfaces in advance and also running taps through all the various threaded holes.  Be sure all the main caps were numbered as they were removed and put back in the same locations.  Having the block chemically vatted (cleaned) will allow some of the major problems to be observed if there are any.  Many of these problems show up while the block is still hot and wet and will show up as the block is drying.  The key here is that problems must be looked for to actually show up.
 
Beyond all this, if you know the history of the block and assuming it was not losing any coolant, then you’d simply check the cylinders for wear and go forward accordingly.  If you don’t know the history of the block, then you would be dollars ahead by having it pressure checked and magnafluxed to reduce the possibility of hidden cracks.  Once the block checks out as being free of cracks, then you might consider align boring or honing the mains.  How the bearings looked when the engine was torn down would give some indications as to how straight and true the main bores are.  Decking the block during the machining process would insure both a compression ratio increase if using composition head gaskets and equalizing all the cylinders so that the pistons are sitting equal distances from the deck.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)