If you plan to keep it non power assisted, get a smaller bore master cylinder, 1" or smaller.  Get drum / drum if it will remain drum / drum.

The pedal ratio is the distance from the center of the pivot to about the center of the pad your foot rests on divide by the distance from the center of the pivot to the center of the pushrod bolt.  I don't know where to find the recommended ratio for the dual master cylinder.  You can make small changes to that ratio fairly easily but big changes will require pretty significant modifications.  My advice if you install a dual master cylinder, drive it like it still has the single.

You may not need a longer pushrod.  The bolt which goes through the pedal is eccentric and has built in adjustability.  The general design of the pushrod is also pretty common.  A day at a junk yard should get several different lengths which can be modified to fit perfectly, if needed.

I also agree, invest in a quality flare tool - you're going to spend a couple hundred dollars on this.  The cheap ones are garbage and nothing but a headache.



Lawrenceville, GA

Ok thanks for the advice. how would I know what the ratio is that you are talking about?

Using NiCopp is the easiest to bend vs stainless.  places like Summit have it and some on Ebay is cheaper. Don't forget that brake lines need a double flare so you need a double flare tool.

You may find you'll need to lengthen the push rod that goes from the pedal into the new master to get the correct pedal free play. 

If you still have the drums all round I would expect that you should try find one for drums as it will have some sort of residual built in, make sure your bore size is the same.
just a note; some people change to a dual for "safety reasons" just be aware that on some with pedal ratios being different etc that even if you fail one circuit you may find your pedal on the floor anyway, giving you zip...
If you plan to do your own lines make sure you have a good flaring tool like an Eastwood, don't try use a hand held crappy one your wasting your time.  Stainless...? well I wouldn't bother unless your car is a real show piece, normal bundy tube is great you can bend it with your fingers, don't get anything too soft as I know with my Eastwood it doesn't like it. Replace all your hard lines, soft lines and hone your wheel cylinders too..  You will probably need more than the 25 foot rolls you get. Find a hose - fitting place near you and buy it off them, hunt around its not expensive.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I am planning on changing to a double stage cylinder on my 63 f100. Is there anything I need to know before doing it. Is there anything in perticular for the new master cylinder. I know I have to get either a 66 or 67 to get the double stage. Does it need to say for use with front and rear drum brakes? Any other info or advice would be helpfull as I will be making my own lines(flaring them). About how much line will I need? Has anyone used stainless before? Is it hard to flare and is it really nessecary verses steel?