Howdy to you all. 
I'm in a dilemma here. I'm running a Robertshaw (genuine stuff, not made in China) 160 degree thermostat on my 292, that is bored 0.060 over, has a Isky E-4 and a Autolite four barrel. 
People say I should replace it with a 180 degree thermostat, because 160 is "too cold".
Well, the car runs great, and my climate here is humid and hot, like let's say Florida (being there, and it was VERY familiar, hahaha) 
My engine almost never goes beyond 170 while driving on normal speed traffic, with a occasional 200 when stuck in traffic. 
What do you guys think?

Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.

'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8

'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8

'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6

'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec

I have either a 160 or 170 thermostat (can't remember which one) and my car runs good. 


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

180 is probably better , but so long as you are not doing short drives and you do show 180+ and maintain it for some time I think your fine.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

A hotter engine is a more efficient and powerful engine.  If your cooling system is adequate and in good condition, it will not overheat.  I'm in Atlanta, not too far from Florida, your analog to your location, and run a 180.



Lawrenceville, GA

Thanks for the imput guys. 

Since I had a overheating problem before rebuilding the engine, I'm kind of scared of hot water boiling and hissing all over the engine bay.
Thanks Charley, what you said is what I red and also was told. 
My bigger worry tough is having a significant engine wear issue due to the 160 T-Stat. 



Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.

'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8

'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8

'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6

'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec

How will a 160 T-Stat cause premature engine wear? I am asking because I think that is what I just bought to put in my 292.

Durham Missouri

There has been plenty of testing on stationary engines in the past that supports the warmer coolant temperatures promoting less engine wear.  Part of this has to do with getting the oil warmer which in turn simply flows better in lubing all the various parts; cooler oil just doesn’t circulate as well.  Warmer combustion temperatures are also more efficient in that more of the atomized fuel is burned.  Colder engines require a richer fuel mixture which is also promotes quicker wear due to ‘fuel wash’ at the rings and cylinders.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I got the 160 because it's a Robertshaw, so it's big. The 180 t-stats I find here are all too restrictive. 
I'll look for a Robertshaw kind, the so called high volume nowadays with 180 opening. 

Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.

'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8

'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8

'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6

'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec

Tulio - I believe that because your "normal equilibrium" temperatures are the 170º (and highest at 200º) as reported, changing to the 180º will only change the bottom end. It will pull up the 170º to the 180º where the T-stat is actually regulating it. Upper end temp therefore shouldn't change - as in both cases (160º or 180º) the T-stats should both be wide open there. Sometimes it can be difficult to find a t-stat that regulates smoothly - and they won't set down at the opening point and stay there and wander a bit.

Narrowing that range of operation should be better for simply setting up the engine to have a more consistent idle performance. I've thought before, that I wouldn't mind finding a 190º if I could find one that was stable and didn't hunt. much easier to set the idle for all weather conditions.   

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Interesting thread!
When I built my motor, based on the higher compression on the iron heads I figured it would be wise to run a cooler (160 deg F) thermostat! I guess I was wrong!  I find that my engine runs excessively cool as long as I am moving, but likes to climb pretty fast when I am idling. I am running an aluminum rad with Mr Gasket "Blow through" electric fan on a 190 deg temp switch. I think I may go back to the prop fan and keep the electric as a back up. I am questioning the amount of CFM that the electric fan is pushing through.

So based on this thread, I am best to go back to a 180 Deg stat, as that should keep my Y in a better operating range?   

 

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!