I know theses do out but i checked mine and i will double check to make sure but the front and back verticals of the crops member are solid. But the bottom plate sounds thin right under the control arm mounts.

Seems to be worse on the passenger side. So my question is since the sides sound solid would it be advisable to cut out the thin sounding areas clean the member out the use some east wood inside farm coating and welding new metal plate floors be a good fix?

Like wise would it be safe to do limited driving like it is? I had the car towed on a flat bed before and it didnt do any damage with the car jarring and bouncing and i am thinking if i can drive it safely i can put it on a rack at work to make the welding easier on me.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

yes you can fix them.ive done a few and they will last for years.its safe to drive it as is they have to get really bad to fall apart.

There is a reason why a lot of people refer to rust on cars as "cancer". That is because it spreads to areas you don't expect. Once you get into the cross member and start digging out the rusted areas to weld in new steel, you may be surprised at how far it has really spread. The cross member on our 56 Ranch Wagon is rusted across the bottom and half way up each side. I decided pretty quickly not to try a repair on it, so I bought a reproduction (Goodall Fabrication) front cross member. We have been buying more new front suspension parts since it all has to come apart anyway to install the new cross member and haven't actually done the job yet, but I'll post pictures when I do. So good luck with whiscruber way you decide to go.
Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Did you ever install the front cross? How well did the fit go?
Thanks!

I would like to hear about the results of the cross member job and see your pics also. I have a car that had a failure and dropped the right side control arm. 



Tom from the chiggerfarm located in the beautiful Heart of Central Texas

When you cannot dazzle others with your brilliance, baffle them with bullcorn!

I replaced the whole bottom section of mine from the control arm hole to hole. Also half way up one side around one hole. I put 3/16 steel back in mine. Mostly because I had it laying around. I also added a weep hole at the lowest point. Here's a couple pics

Durham Missouri

Such a shame that its a real 'bug in the system' why they never put proper drain holes in I'll never know.. bit like putting the crank seal on the INSIDE of the timing cover doh!.
The rust can be deceiving,  we replaced mine and I'll never forget Rick [Rick55] putting his foot on the breaker bar to undo the lower control arm bolt and the whole thing just twisted and tore apart aghhh a rusted mess!  Danger Will Robinson!



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I had to stop short on the Ranch Wagon Front Cross Member project because we are moving.....AGAIN! I did get the 9" rear end in and did buy all new front suspension parts including a disk brake conversion kit. I just didn't want to feel rushed to get the job done and currently I am packing the shop up. When I start on it I will post pictures.
Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Moving again ??/   



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Back to the Boise Idaho area...way too expensive for us down here in SoCal.
Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID