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By MoonShadow - 13 Years Ago
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Has anyone messed around with making a ultrasonic unit to fit on a parts washer? Seem like the way to go for clean parts but the units large enough for heads etc. are real pricy. I would think a unit could be made to attach to the side or bottom of an existing tank. Would caustic soda, added to the mix, make the solution more acidic. Also, I'm using Simple Green in a 20gal tank now. Lousy compared to the EPA banned cleaners. I'm thinking of adding a heat unit and air to the tank. Any thoughts? Sure wish I still had a 50gal drum of ZEP hidden away. But that stuff is real bad for the environment. Thanks, Chuck
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By The Master Cylinder - 13 Years Ago
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MoonShadow (10/8/2011)
Would caustic soda, added to the mix, make the solution more acidic.
Thanks, Chuck
Chuck, Caustic Soda (Sodium Hydroxide, NaOH) is a strong base or aklaline material having a pH above 7 which is the opposite of an acid and would neutralize an acid and possibly causing a violent reaction, depending on the strengths. NOT a good idea to mix the two.
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By stuey - 13 Years Ago
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Master cylinder is right, its an alkaline and, if i remember correctly it will eat ally parts. the only ultrasonic cleaners i've seen are very small and used by jewellers and dental techs. they use paezio electric crystals which brings something else to mind,somebody built a carb using such a device back in the 60s don't think it caught on. bigger ultrasonic cleaners use transformers and the vibrations caused in the laminations. feel free to experiment stuey
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By MoonShadow - 13 Years Ago
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I stand warned on the Caustic Soda. Won't try that. I've looked into home made ultrasonic cleaners but as soon as they start talking about sound cards and specific frequencies I'm done! I have seen some larger and very large industrial units but they start at over $3000. Way out of my price range for a home use parts cleaner. There is a demo of one at the Jay Leno garage site. Big enough for heads and maybe a block. It looks like an answer to the poor quality cleaners we have to use now. I did find that Simple Green is said to work better with heat and am looking into a tank heater. One site suggested using a couple magnetic block heaters. I would prefer something that heated a bit quicker so I don't have to leave it on all the time. I'm also thinking about adding an air line to the tank to move the solution. Thats supposed to help with cleaning submerged parts. Chuck
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By bird55 - 13 Years Ago
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Chuck, i think this has been discusse at length over at the HAMB, so you might check there. Also just the addition of a small electric fountain styl pumps helps some.
I miss using laquer thinner and MEK and all that other good stuff. GEE, i wonder why my hands shake now at my age? 
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By The Master Cylinder - 13 Years Ago
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Alan, I'm surprised you can even by MEK anymore. Seen it at Home Depot the other day while looking for something else. Nasty Stuff...
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By LON - 13 Years Ago
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Chuck , I know its low tech,slow & smelly ,but have you ever used molasses ??? I think its about 5lb of molasses to 5 gallons of water ( I stand to be corrected on this ) .It is a lot safer than acid .The only downfall is the time .Some parts can take 2 or 3 weeks to clean . The smell is the worst part .Add more molasses to make it stronger . See if you can get hold of a 55 Gallon plastic drum & cut it to suit your needs .You will not believe how clean an old block will look ??? Has anyone else used molasses to clean metal parts . Lon
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By bird55 - 13 Years Ago
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You CAN still buy MEK. I hadn't realized! BUT still the stuff is questionable to use I think. The smell will knock you over quick. Use it outdoors.
I looked it up http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butanone and it doesn't seem as bad as I thought? Last time I used it it was recommended to rinse out a gas tank before applying sealant.
I'm starting to get headache just thinking about.
OH yea, forgot to add HIGHLY FLAMMABLE and Explosive. 
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By pintoplumber - 13 Years Ago
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Lon, I can believe molasses would work. We get to work at a couple of feed mills that use molasses in the feed. The pipes are nice and clean inside and after a number of years it eats through the threads.
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By Grizzly - 13 Years Ago
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Lon, Yes I've used molasses. 1:4 with water really great for cleaning iron or steel parts. I've seen all sorts of people who use it. Even one guy who had a 200 ltr drum set up in his engine recon business. Like you say a little slow but safe. Throw your part in and check it in a week or a few days never seems to take more than the corrosion. But like I said safe, if you forget about it or don't get time you don't come back to nothing. I didn't like the reaction when there was more than one metal (aluminium & steel) in the drum. cheers Warren
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By aussiebill - 13 Years Ago
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Grizzly (10/14/2011)
Lon, Yes I've used molasses. 1:4 with water really great for cleaning iron or steel parts. I've seen all sorts of people who use it. Even one guy who had a 200 ltr drum set up in his engine recon business. Like you say a little slow but safe. Throw your part in and check it in a week or a few days never seems to take more than the corrosion. But like I said safe, if you forget about it or don't get time you don't come back to nothing. I didn't like the reaction when there was more than one metal (aluminium & steel) in the drum. cheers Warren Yes, i ,ve used it for years, anything rusty will come up like new but must be thoriughly cleaned with hot soapy water or chemical based cleaner to halt the process, my engine reconditioner soaks all his blocks before machining.
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By jrw429 - 13 Years Ago
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Molasses is used due to the organic chelating agents in it. Here's a chelating product specifically for rust removal. I've not tried any of this, just doing research right now.
http://www.orisonmarketing.com/corrosion/evaporust/evapo-rust.html
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By randyh - 13 Years Ago
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I have tried evaporust on some small parts it did a really good job, I was impressed. It was available at the local tractor supply in 1 gallon jug for about $20.
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