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By 2X57SEDAN - 15 Years Ago
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i hope one of you knowledgable people on here can help me i either read somwhere or heard that a person can use a master cylinder from i think it was an mid 80's explorer on a 57 failane/sedan body i think is supposed to be a direct bolt on and its made from aluminum and the lines are toward the outside of the engine compartment does anyone know if this is right? or am i again mistaken i might have read about this in an article in a magazine
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By 2X57SEDAN - 15 Years Ago
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at the moment it has drums but that doesnt matter because the frame isnt under it but if a person would use a disc master on a car with only drums wouldnt the larger master cylinder bore/piston give better pedal feel and maybe just a tad more stopping power? approximately how much push rod lenth difference is there? thanks for your help
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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I think you'll be alright using a disc cylinder with drums. I'm currently using a disc/disc master with a disc/drum setup. I switched from a disc/drum master to the disc/disc master a few years ago and noticed no difference in the stopping ability - everything else being the same at the time. In my research, I've come across nothing that says you cannot use a disc master with drums. I have found several sources which say not to use a drum master with discs.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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It's my thinking that the disc master cylinders have the larger reservoir because as the pads wear, the pistons continue moving out of their bores and that volume has to be replaced by fluid. The pistons do not retract. Drum brake pistons retract, so they do not require constant replenishing of fluid. So if you use a drum master with discs, check your fluid level frequently and top off as required. The larger reservoir reduces the frequency of fluid checks. Like Charlie, I see no problem using a disc master on a drum car.
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By paul2748 - 15 Years Ago
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Unless I am mistaken, all drum/drum masters had a built in residual pressure valve. Masters for disc/drum and disc/disc do not, residual pressure being handled by the separate combo valve. Not being an expert, any problems there???
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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Paul: You're right. I revise my thinking. Discs don't need residual valves, drums do. Thanks for bringing that to light.
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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Residual valves are available which go inline, if the master cylinder does not have one.
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By MikeLongIsland - 15 Years Ago
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When I started my research, I was told 10lb residual valve in the rear for the drums and 2lb in the front for disks, I was told I had to use these because of the frame mounted master and the fact that the bleeders were higher than the master.
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By simplyconnected - 15 Years Ago
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2X57SEDAN (5/12/2009)
... a person can use a master cylinder from i think it was an mid 80's explorer on a 57 failane/sedan body... RAYBESTOS Part # MC18000 {Professional Grade Bore Size=1" Number of Ports=1 Primary Outlet Size=1/2x20; Bolt Holes 2 1/4" Apart} Ford/Lincoln (1952 - 1959) RAYBESTOS Part # MC39467 {Professional Grade Bore Size=1" Number of Ports=2 Primary Outlet Size=7/16x24 Secondary Outlet Size=1/2x20} GRAN TORINO SPORT (1972 - 1975) Town Car (1981 - 1989) The major difference is you are going from a single to a dual M/C, so you need to repipe. Each has a 1" bore and the bolt holes are 2-1/4" apart on both. You may have to adjust your brake pedal rod slightly, but they appear to be exact bolt-on replacements. F-150's used a different M/C in the mid '80's. Here's the best part, the dual M/C costs less than HALF of the original model. Mike, that's true. I don't use any valves for my disk brakes, but I do use one 10# for both back drums. Remember, this is a biggie, the back brakes will no longer self-adjust (if they originally did), and there is no pedal drop when they need adjustment. Eventually, the shoes might pull the pistons out of their cylinders from being out so far. The solution is to adjust shoes every six months, whether they need it or not. - Dave
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By paul2748 - 15 Years Ago
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MikeLongIsland (5/16/2009)
When I started my research, I was told 10lb residual valve in the rear for the drums and 2lb in the front for disks, I was told I had to use these because of the frame mounted master and the fact that the bleeders were higher than the master.
That is correct.
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By PF Arcand - 15 Years Ago
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Tom: A late question on this topic. For a 57 Car on Drums, is the 68 Bronco Master cylinder a dual chamber unit, & available for manual brakes? And when you say the pushrod needs to be adjusted, do you mean cut or a piece welded in?
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By PF Arcand - 15 Years Ago
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Tom: thanks for the clarification. Splitting the system on my car would be a good safety idea, plus I want to check out my existing Master, as I suspect based on info from this site, that it may be a power brake unit. The braking effort is very hard..
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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Dennis: The drum masters that I am familiar with are assembled as follows. A rubber washer, a check valve, a spring, and the piston assembly. The check valve allows fluid to flow freely to the brake cylinders when you push the pedal. When you release the pedal, the return springs on the shoes forces the fluid back to the master. When the fluid meets the now closed check valve, it unseats the valve from its rubber washer. The spring re-seats the check valve when line pressure drops to about 10 psi. Is this not a residial valve?
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By Y block Billy - 15 Years Ago
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I think there is some confusion between residual valves and proportioning valves going on here. another thing to remember is that the front line of the master is for the rear brakes and the rear outlet of the master for the front brakes. How many people get this mixed up when doing conversions?
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By Big6ft6 - 13 Years Ago
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So I'm thinking about upgrading to a dual resevoir, and I'm trying to predict in advance which master cylinder option creates the "path of least resistance" when dealing with a 4-drum car. It seems like the 68 Bronco MC might be the fastest way to go and the fitting sizes on the Bronco MC are the same as the fittings and lines already used on my 56 customline ( can anyone comfirm this?) Also, what is the pain associated with a MC that has the line outlets on the fender side of the MC? I can't quite picture my engine bay well enought to understand what hassle this will cuase versus having the line outlets towards the engine side? I'm hoping to order this today so it comes in tomorrow and I can work on it over the weekend. Thanks!
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By drof75 - 13 Years Ago
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I used a manual master cylinder for a 67 mustang on my 57 fairlane. Bolted right up. The rod from the pedal had to be lengthened 1 1/2 inches. I think there are adjustable rods available. Then replumb the lines. You will get rid of the tee and run the front/rear lines separate to the m/c. A good place for info on these mods is http://www.57fordsforever.com
Buz
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