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By oldcarmark - Last Month
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Should I use same Torque on Bolts for my new Aluminum Intake Manifold as used on Factory Cast Iron Manifold? Thanks!
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By Ted - Last Month
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By the book, it is 23-28 ft-lbs for the intake manifold bolts for the Ford Y. The 1957 service manual does not specify aluminum or iron for the intake manifold bolts, but I will assume that value is for either. I typically just tighten the intake bolts in steps with a hand wrench or ratchet while paying particular attention to the tightening sequence. For the Ford FE, it’s 25-28 ft-lbs for an aluminum intake and 35 ft-lbs for an iron intake.
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By oldcarmark - Last Month
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Thank You Ted. I will do it that way and finish with 25 foot lb pounds on the Torque wrench.
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By Litshoot - Last Month
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Ted, do you recommend spiral or criss cross pattern when torqueing. Ive seen both in shop manual recommended on same part for different vehicles which really makes no sense to me.
Seth
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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 MUMMERT |
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By Joe-JDC - Last Month
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Ted is probably on his way to Bonneville, or already there. Torquing the intake, I would recommend starting from the center bolts and working your way out to the ends in a cris-cross pattern. If your torque wrench will allow, start with 15# and then go to 20# and finally 23-25# in the same cris-cross pattern. If your torque wrench is like mine, then hand tight the bolts and then torque to the lowest setting which is usually 20#, and then final of 23-25#. I've used this on all my Y's and really haven't had an issue with gasket leaks or misalignments. I do block the heat passage with a thin piece of steel and remove the embossed heat pad from the gasket before installations. Joe-JDC
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By lazylnm - 2 Weeks Ago
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JDC - do you use an oversized piece of sheet metal that lays under the gasket or do you trim it to fit inside the hole in the gasket? I haven't laid my gasket over my 2bbl intake yet to see what the fitment is like.
Thanks
Mike '55 Glasstop 272ci 3 sp O/D
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By Big Tim - 2 Weeks Ago
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I used an old license plate for mine. I put it between the gasket and the intake with a VERY thin layer of red RTV. Same size as the mounting surface. Worked great.
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By lazylnm - 2 Weeks Ago
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Thanks - it goes on tomorrow
Mike
'55 Glasstop 272ci 3sp O/D
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By Joe-JDC - 2 Weeks Ago
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I buy thin sheetmetal from Lowes that is .035" and cut with scissors to fit. Works just fine, and is thin enough that the gasket seals without a bulge. Joe-JDC
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By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Weeks Ago
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Has modern fuel made manifold exhaust heating totally unnecessary (electric choke/alum.manifold), even for northern/winter driving?
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By Ted - 3 Weeks Ago
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DANIEL TINDER (8/6/2026)
Has modern fuel made manifold exhaust heating totally unnecessary (electric choke/alum.manifold), even for northern/winter driving?
Heating the intake manifold went to the wayside with the advent of port fuel injection. The heated manifolds were necessary with carburetors to keep the manifold warm to prevent the carburetor from icing up when the vehicles were driven at dew point or less ambient temperatures.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Weeks Ago
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Ted (8/8/2026)
DANIEL TINDER (8/6/2026)
Has modern fuel made manifold exhaust heating totally unnecessary (electric choke/alum.manifold), even for northern/winter driving?Heating the intake manifold went to the wayside with the advent of port fuel injection. The heated manifolds were necessary with carburetors to keep the manifold warm to prevent the carburetor from icing up when the vehicles were driven at dew point or less ambient temperatures.
I live in a warm (sometimes too hot, like now) climate. We have very few, if any, days when the temperature drops below freezing. Lacking air conditioning on my 55 Tbird, if it's too hot or too cold for me, the car will remain in the garage. On the other hand, if your carburetor-equipped vehicle is your daily driver (unlikely for most of us), and you live in a cold climate, you probably should not block off the heat crossover.
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