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By Tealy64 - Last Month
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I'm getting ready to finish wiring and firing our 292 in the '64 F100 that we're working on, but my start clicks, bumps out engages the flywheel, but doesn't seem strong enough to turn it over. It's a brand new battery, and the engine turns over easily by hand with a socket and ratchet. I'd like to use a newer, mini start if possible. Any suggestions from folks that have upgraded in the past? What else could be my problem besides the starter itself not being strong enough to turn it over?
Thanks!!
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By Deyomatic - Last Month
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I've been running a PowerMaster mini-starter for about 3 years now and I've never looked back. Smaller, lighter, and starts the engine up faster.
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By Tealy64 - Last Month
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Awesome! Do you have the model that you use, by chance? And is it something I can get at the local ('zone, o'reilly, etc) or do I need to special order them somewhere?
Thank you!
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By Deyomatic - Last Month
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Looks like I got Powermaster model number 9002 for "1954-64 12 volt only" from Amazon back in 2023. It's $238 now. I don't know if any are different as far as tooth count, but mine works great on what I believe was a 1959 292 out of a Fairlane.
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By Daniel Jessup - Last Month
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for what it's worth, I do have an article on my website that goes through the process of install with a Powermaster.
link: https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post/2017/12/15/55-ford-restoration-blog-part-31
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By Tealy64 - Last Month
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So I got a 9002 and installed it, and it's giving me the same issue. It's not grabbing the flywheel. Could this be a toothcount issue? Or am I doing something wrong. I tried turn the motor over a little at a time to try and get the starter teeth to lock in and turn it over, but i got nothing. 
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By Big Tim - Last Month
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Are you sure you have adequate grounding? might have enough to pull the Bendix in but as soon as it tries to move the flywheel it runs out of pathway for the juice.
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By Tealy64 - Last Month
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am I sure? No, I'm never sure when it comes to this beastie. However, I'll give it a shot. I'm assuming Engine to body and Engine to Frame? I'll check to make sure all contacts are clean and metal on metal.
And just to confirm, the only wire going to the starter should be the cable from the starter relay, correct?
Thanks for the tip!
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By Litshoot - Last Month
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starting issues were the bane of my existence in high school. a bunch of ways to test but had i done voltage drop i would have better understood at that time. all these test are done while cranking the engine, a charger on the battery would be good if you have one available. start off with measuring voltage at battery, above 10.8v is good if below 9.5v charge battery or try another battery if possible. could use jumpers from a running car if needed. next put voltmeter on starter + lug and on starter case, should be 9v+, 8s might be ok. next measure battery negative post to starter case, and starter + lug to battery + post. need to see below 1v each, specs usually under .5v. i had originally used available voltage when i wasnt as experienced and i confused myself. found out later i had a nearly 5 volt drop on ground side after replaceing batteries, positive cable, solenoid. I found a cheap mini starter but its taking a lot to install it.
good luck and update.
Seth
Seth
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By MoonShadow - Last Month
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Is there a link to your site on here? If people would just check out your Youtube videos they would find a LOT of answers, suggestions and cures.
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By oldcarmark - Last Month
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Just a thought. Bad starter relay? Solenoid on Fender apron
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By Tealy64 - Last Month
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I thought the same thing, so I did a test to make sure it's getting proper power through and all seems to be good there.
I'm going to check my grounding this weekend and make sure everything has a good ground. If that's not it, I'm not sure what to do next.
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