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By Marc - Last Month
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I just bought a pair of the Spotlite Kustoms aluminum valve covers (the ones that look like the OEM steel covers but with fins).
Didn't take long to realize the stud holes are too small for the OEM grommets. The lower portion of the grommet that sits inside the stud hole is about .100" larger than the hole. Figured I could just shave that part off and try it, but even after that the remaining portion of the grommet is still too fat to seat correctly in the recessed area around the stud hole.
Wondering if anyone else has run into this, and what you did to make it work.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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The correct grommets either should have been included or offered for an additional charge. When you communicate with Spotlite Kustoms, let them know that you will post the outcome on this forum. Unfortunately, these days, there are businesses out there that just don't care. I guess it comes down to how badly you want those valve covers and what measures you're willing to take to make it right. Whenever I can, I use Amex for purchases. Amex will remove the charge whenever there's a problem with a product and the seller is uncooperative. eBay, Amazon, and PayPal, possibly others, offer some consumer protection in such cases.
You might get by with using RTV and the correct size washers.
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By Marc - Last Month
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Agreed, it would've been nice if the correct grommets came with the covers, especially if they're different from the OEM. The response from Spotlite was that there are two different types of grommets, and I apparently need the "other" type. They don't happen to sell either type.
Like most Y-block guys, I've got tons of these grommets lying around. They're all the same, at least the ones I have. The only difference I've noticed is some seem to have a thin layer of rubber over the washer, and others have the top of the washer exposed.
Out of curiosity I went to the Concours Parts site and sure enough, they list different grommets, one for steel valve covers and one for aluminum. That was news to me. I've always used whatever came in the gasket kit and they've worked on both types of valve covers. So for kicks I ordered 4 of each. Once they come in we'll see if any of them fit.
The whole thing just seems kind of odd. I've seen nothing but positive reviews for these valve covers, and no mention of "make sure you get grommet X".
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By paul2748 - Last Month
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Looking at the valve covers, it looks like the space for the flat washers is too small besides the problem with the grommets.
Like the poster, I never knew there were two sizes. I have the TBird covers on both of my cars and the grommets I have (and have a lot of extras) seem all the same size,. They also fit the valley cover. I have a couple of tin sets around so I will try them on those.
CASCO only lists one grommet, but Hill's list two sizes, one for steel and the other for aluminum . In t Hill's and Concours , , the listing for the steel ones are also for the valley cover while the listing for the aluminum ones are for the rocker covers only.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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I guess I better check to see what size I'll need for my Ace valley cover before I install it.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - Last Month
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Regardless of what valley cover is used, make sure the grommet does not make the front valley cover bolt sit so high that the intake manifold sits on the bolt head. Bad result is a manifold or water leak. Worst result if breaking off the front ears of the intake manifold. Check by setting the intake on the heads without a gasket and see is a feeler gauge or a thin piece of cardboard will pass between the bolt head and the manifold.
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By Marc - Last Month
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Good advice John. That's always something that needs to be verified.
Still waiting for the new grommets to show up so I asked Tim McMaster about his experience with these covers since he recently posted some pics of a recent build using them. He said that instead of grommets he used umbrella valve stem seals with a 5/16" flat washer. Works very nicely.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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 The mounting studs for the ALUM CVR also longer -
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By Ted - Last Month
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On the Spotlite valve covers, I have used a thick O ring topped off with a smaller O.D. flat washer while using the original acorn hold down nuts.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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What would be interesting is if the aftermarket hold-down holes were machined the same as OEM BIRD.
While there two grommets released (OEM) , will the OEM BIRD grommet seal the aftermarket rocker cover?
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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Tight fit. I guess I never really noticed. Things are often overlooked, until they become a problem.
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By Marc - Last Week
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So the long-awaited two types of grommets arrived from Concours Parts yesterday. As expected both are similar dimensionally where they fit into the valve covers, either steel or aluminum. The difference is the ones marketed as "early" do not have the built-in flat washer on top. Neither will fit the Spotlite Kustoms valve covers. Not a big deal, since using umbrella seals and flat washers instead of OEM grommets worked perfectly.
Definitely a good idea to check your clearance between the intake and the forward valley cover bolt. I just installed a Mummert intake and realized it was making contact with the forward bolt head. Ended up grinding the bolt head down just a bit to gain some clearance.
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By KULTULZ - Last Week
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... both are similar dimensionally where they fit into the valve covers, either steel or aluminum. The difference is the ones marketed as "early" do not have the built-in flat washer on top. Neither will fit the Spotlite Kustoms valve covers.
Isn't that something?
So the rocker cover was not machined correctly?
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By Ted - Last Week
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The Spotlite aluminum valve covers are not designed to use the factory grommets. Besides the O.D. of the recess being too small to accommodate the factory grommet, the inner hole is also only sized to fit the 5/16” diameter rocker arm stud and not the extra diameter required to accommodate the protrusion on the bottom of the OEM grommet. I did look at some of those covers that are sitting here and there’s simply not enough material to machine the valve covers for the oem grommets.
They are very good appearing covers for the Ford Y and the lower scallops matching the originals just reinforces the look. Easy enough to make your own rubber seals and as someone has suggested, just using modified valve stem seals works. On my end, I have just used appropriately sized rubber O rings along with a smaller diameter washer which gets the job done.
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By 55blacktie - Last Week
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Marc (4/2/2026)
So the long-awaited two types of grommets arrived from Concours Parts yesterday. As expected both are similar dimensionally where they fit into the valve covers, either steel or aluminum. The difference is the ones marketed as "early" do not have the built-in flat washer on top. Neither will fit the Spotlite Kustoms valve covers. Not a big deal, since using umbrella seals and flat washers instead of OEM grommets worked perfectly. Definitely a good idea to check your clearance between the intake and the forward valley cover bolt. I just installed a Mummert intake and realized it was making contact with the forward bolt head. Ended up grinding the bolt head down just a bit to gain some clearance.
"Catch 22"
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By KULTULZ - 2 Weeks Ago
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If they were not designed to accept FORD SERVICE PARTS or offered an alternative, they should mention that.
I would hate to think what they cost and then you have to mickey mouse something to seal them.
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By miker - Last Week
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Years ago there was a Yblock rebuild series, I think it was Doc Frohmader. He put a nut on the rocker shaft stud then the grommet, and set the valve cover in place. He adjusted the nut till he got the pressure he wanted on the vac gaskets, then tightened them down. This prevented over tightening the vc and pushing the gasket out.
It’s a cloudy old memory, I’ve neve tried it or seen it anywhere else. I’d be inclined to go with Ted’s suggestions, but if they don’t work out for you, maybe?
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By 55blacktie - Last Week
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Was a step left out, or am I overlooking something? If the grommet and nut are placed on the stud before the valve cover is in place, how do you tighten the nut? One nut was used under the valve cover and one on top? Were 2 grommets used as well?
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By KULTULZ - Last Week
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My thought is can the bore(s) be machined larger to accept the correct grommets? I did look at some of those covers that are sitting here and there’s simply not enough material to machine the valve covers for the oem grommets.
Reading comprehension failed me in HS ... |
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By miker - 10 days ago
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Blacktie, exactly. A washer and acorn nut go on top. Seems like a lot of fiddling around to avoid a ham handed mechanic. Maybe Doc sold a lot of engines to them. Ive always run cast valve covers and been careful about tightening them on any engine. And a lot of the cores I’ve torn down showed warped covers and leaking gaskets. But I’ve not had that problem.
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By 55blacktie - 10 days ago
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miker (4/5/2026)
Blacktie, exactly. A washer and acorn nut go on top. Seems like a lot of fiddling around to avoid a ham handed mechanic. Maybe Doc sold a lot of engines to them. Ive always run cast valve covers and been careful about tightening them on any engine. And a lot of the cores I’ve torn down showed warped covers and leaking gaskets. But I’ve not had that problem.
My 55 Tbird has the cast "Dress-up" valve covers (most do, whether or not original). I also have an Ace cast valley cover that will go on my new build.
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By KULTULZ - 10 days ago
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Here is my thought - There were two styles of grommets for the FYB. One was original assembly and did not have the integral washer (B4A 6570-A). The other, a 1959 model year parts superscession, had the integral metal washer (B9A 6570-A). If one were to take the early style and reduce the grommet diameter and reduce the O.D. using the proper size hole punch (used to make gaskets from gasket paper), it should yield a proper service part. This would seal the opening and allow the brite finish washer and acorn nut usage for proper appearance (to me anyways). It is the little details that set one engine apart from another.
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By KULTULZ - 10 days ago
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"Years ago there was a Yblock rebuild series, I think it was Doc Frohmader. He put a nut on the rocker shaft stud then the grommet, and set the valve cover in place. He adjusted the nut till he got the pressure he wanted on the vac gaskets, then tightened them down. This prevented over tightening the vc and pushing the gasket out."
Do you notice any difference(s) between these two parts illustrations? |
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By miker - 10 days ago
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Looks like you got it K.
Look close, the washers on mine are Susan B dollars. Just a little joke for tbird guys
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By 55blacktie - 10 days ago
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miker (4/5/2026)
Looks like you got it K. Look close, the washers on mine are Susan B dollars. Just a little joke for tbird guys
Does she need "Depends"?
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By miker - 10 days ago
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No, but they were cheaper than the “authorized replacements” with shipping and handling.
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By KULTULZ - 10 days ago
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What I meant for his reasoning is he must have come across the 1st engineering ILL and thought the grommet went underneath the rocker cover.
It was a misprint. The 2nd ILL is correct.
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By KULTULZ - 10 days ago
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That is a nicely detailed engine compartment.
Any chance of a full photo?
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By miker - 8 days ago
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Thanks K
There’s been a couple differences versions. One of the original build, 320 stoker with the Paxton supercharger. Very early digital camera, the color is off.
The other is the current version with the Mummert heads and EFI. The smaller chambers increased the static ratio to 10.7, so the supercharger had to go. Replaced with a/c.
 
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By KULTULZ - 8 days ago
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The smaller chambers increased the static ratio to 10.7, so the supercharger had to go
I WOULD HAVE BEEN SICK.
Do you miss the blower? |
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By miker - 8 days ago
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Yes, but not as much as my wallet would miss the cash for a new set of custom dished pistons, rebalancing, etc. Or running racing fuel, which is available locally.
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By 55blacktie - 8 days ago
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miker (4/7/2026)
Thanks K There’s been a couple differences versions. One of the original build, 320 stoker with the Paxton supercharger. Very early digital camera, the color is off. The other is the current version with the Mummert heads and EFI. The smaller chambers increased the static ratio to 10.7, so the supercharger had to go. Replaced with a/c.
Had you planned ahead to install a supercharger, you could have asked John Mummert to machine the aluminum heads to increase combustion-chamber volume. You could have also gone with dished pistons to lower the compression ratio. I have a bare set of 471 heads that are very clean and appear to have been checked out by a machine shop. The person who gave them to me said that they need guides. Although I have no use for them, I took them to keep them out of a scrap pile. I'm willing to give them to anyone who will use them, not sell them.
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By miker - Last Week
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The supercharger started out on an essentially stock engine. Worked. Then I built a 320 stroker at 9:1 and set the pulleys for about 4 lbs boost at 5000rpm. That had a set of Mummert ported 113’s. On the F code clone I built, I used a set of Mummert ported 471’s, 8.5 static, and the VR made about 7 lbs at 5000. Both cars had ignition retard under boost.
When the aluminum heads became available I didn’t want to do a whole new engine. The EFI unit also controls the distributor advance, so we were able to tailor an advance curve at WOT that ran just under detonation.
This took place over a 12 year period. I’ve had the bird since 1999, and it’s about to go down the road. Great car, great education. Learned a lot and I’ve enjoyed it a lot
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By 55blacktie - Last Week
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Gotcha.
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