Synthetic fluids for 54 lincoln Home » Keeping The Dream Alive! » Technical http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic169167.aspx

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By B-rad - Last Month I rebuilt the engine and tranny on my 54 lincoln. Also drained rear end lube. Was wondering what y'all think about using synthetic transmission fluid, engine oil and rear end lube. By Ted - Last Month My two cents worth. For rear differentials, I have had random issues with full synthetic oil leaking past the pinion yoke oil seals.  Simply putting conventional oil back in those rears fixed the oil leak problem.  If the rear end has leather seals, I would definitely shy away from the full synthetic oil. If the engine is a fresh rebuild, then use an oil that will promote a quicker piston ring seating.  Synthetic oil as a general rule minimizes friction and that’s not what you want on a fresh engine build.  The same oil leakage issues mentioned above also apply to the engine.  Some leak with synthetic oil and some don’t.  The other consideration is the cost of synthetic versus conventional oil.  Synthetic oil is designed to go longer miles but due to the low miles and short driving many classic cars experience, the oil is changed more on a time basis rather than a mileage basis. With this in mind, simply use the conventional oil as you are not needing the high mileage characteristics of the synthetic oil. For automatic transmissions, always use the grade/type recommended for that transmission.  If that particular grade is available in a full synthetic, then you can give it a whirl. Other comments or experiences always welcome so don’t let this be the last word on the subject. By miker - Last Month Since that’s a hydramatic and I remember it taking you quite a while to find someone and to get it done, I’d ask the rebuilder first. Just to make sure if whatever parts he came up with had a recommendation. By KULTULZ - Last Month As to ENGINE OIL CHOICE -  http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic162673.aspx https://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/zddp/index.html https://fifthaveinternetgarage.com/tech_tips_Modern_engineoil.php https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/03/zddp-when-where-what-why-how/ Simply put, if an engine has a flat tappet cam, especially w/ high spring pressures (without converter on a street car), it needs a dedicated BREAK-IN OIL for first fire and engine break-in. It has no detergents or dispersent package(s). It is used for BREAK-IN ONLY. Drain and change filter. You would then use a mineral oil (IMO) for say the first five hundred miles or so and change it along with the filter (break in particulates). At this point you would decide to go with mineral. semi-synthetic or full synthetic. Choose the oil wisely as to ZDDP content amount. Synthetics are available with correct ZDDP level(s) but you have to be careful as ZDDP with increased detergent/dispersent package levels causes foaming. Do not use a full RACING OIL on the street unless it is a weekend thumper (or you run moonshine) and is changed frequently (fuel dilution). As was so eloquently mentioned, ATF depends entirely on the friction material used in the overhaul kit. Either the kit manufacturer or rebuild shop should be able to advise on that. DO NOT USE bargain basement lubricants. All it is going to do is cause heartbreak. The above is IMO and mileage(s) may vary ... Keep salt shaker close. By B-rad - Last Month I appreciate all yalls input. As far as the seals go... I imagine there's a seal near the wheels that should probably be changed out since the car has been sitting since 65. I haven't looked at my manual to see what the seals are called so I can look for them. Are special tools needed to remove and replace them? By KULTULZ - Last Month Did you find your answer(s)? By B-rad - Last Month Looking at the diagram you posted on my other question I can't figure out which piece is the seal. By KULTULZ - Last Month Basic Part Number 1177 in the ILL is the axle seal - By B-rad - Last Month Is there a way to check the seal for leaking if there's no fluid in the axle? I drained old fluid out. I don't see any signs of leakage but its been a long time sitting. I'd like to change out the seals and bearings while it's incompasitated but I don't have any special tools or press. By KULTULZ - Last Month If the axle tube seal(s) are leaking, you will either see an oil residue or oil on the carrier plate (inside and/or outside), sometimes on the brake shoes themselves if leaking badly. You would also check the pinion seal as to sweating or leakage. Make sure the housing vent is not clogged as this will also cause leakages. There are special service tools to remove and install the end seals but you can cheat. 2240 is the retainer but also acts as an oil slinger/shield if the seal leaks. By B-rad - Last Month Great, thanks