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By AllenV - Last Year
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On to my next question. I am finishing up a complete refresh of a stock 292. Cast iron block and heads. Block bored as needed. Crank polished, rods honed. New: pistons, rings, valves valve seats, cam, lifters, push rods…..
The machine shop suggested a break-in oil – Maxima Racing Oils, Performance Break-In Mineral Engine Oil, 10W-30. “2X zinc formula” (see photo)
(1) Is this the preferred break-in oil? What do you folks use?
(2) After break-in, what oil is preferred for a stock 292 in an F-100 puttering about our village with the wife and dog?
The question also extends to my other toy car, ’72 Mercedes 350SL with a gasoline 4.5L OHC V8 and mechanical lifters. It also needs an oil for flat tappets. Presently I am running Valvoline Premium Blue, Heavy Duty Diesel Oil, 15W-40, in that one. But it may shift over to the same oil as the Y-Block, albeit perhaps a heavier weight to reflect the 117K miles on the ticker.
Curious side story, I once put Mobil1 synthetic in the Mercedes. I promptly leaked oil out all the seams until I drained it and put in a conventional oil.
There seems to be a recent up-tick in the availability of “classic car” oils. Which oil, or oils, have proven benefit for the old (now “new”) Y-Block?
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By 55blacktie - Last Year
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Allen, I had considered using Mobil 1 0w-40 European Formula or 10w-40 High Mileage, both of which Mobil recommends for flat-tappet engines, but Ted said that full synthetic shouldn't be used.
Your engine looks great, but it is more red than the Seymour Ford/Chrysler Red that I recently bought for my Tbird engine. I chose that particular paint because Gil Baumgartner (CTCI Gil's Garage) says it most closely matches the original engine color.
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By DryLakesRacer - Last Year
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I’ve been using Lucas 10-30 Hot Rod oil for 5 years with a stock 292. It’s formulated for flat tappet camshafts. I do not know if the “nice to have” center cam bear revision was done or not but I have oil at the rocker arms every time I check. I use a Wix 51085 3/4 length screw on filter. I change oil once a year. Many use Valvoline racing oil but I prefer not to. Good luck with your truck and have fun with it.
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By AllenV - Last Year
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Supercharged, yep, it is very red. That is Eastwood's ceramic engine paint in red. I was after a color that yells "hello" when I open the hood. To be restoration correct with the '55 F-100 the motor would be pale yellow, or I've I think I've seen some in black. Neither resonate with me. Then I realized that trucks like this were survivors relying on used motors to get past middle age. This one came to me with a early-60s 292 rattle-canned blue, putting on airs of a newer motor. So I made it pop in red after I found some evidence that some of the cast iron was red to begin with, from whatever sedan served as the donor. That said, the shade of red is builder's choice.
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By AllenV - Last Year
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DryLakesRacer (3/28/2023)
I’ve been using Lucas 10-30 Hot Rod oil for 5 years with a stock 292. It’s formulated for flat tappet camshafts. I do not know if the “nice to have” center cam bear revision was done or not but I have oil at the rocker arms every time I check. I use a Wix 51085 3/4 length screw on filter. I change oil once a year. Many use Valvoline racing oil but I prefer not to. Good luck with your truck and have fun with it.
hey, I finally spotted that giant "quote" button.
this is great info. An oil and a shorter filter.
FYI, I did enlarge the oil groove in the cam. The rest of the oiling system is stock. Planning on good quality oil, changed often.
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By paul2748 - Last Year
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In order to not void any warranty that you have on the new engine, I would suggest using the oil recommended by the engine builder.
After that, there was an article by Ted here recommending any conventional oil with at least a 30 rating or better 10/30/10/40 etc.
Certainly got off subject - started with an oil question and ended up with engine color. WOW
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By AllenV - Last Year
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paul2748 (3/28/2023)
In order to not void any warranty that you have on the new engine, I would suggest using the oil recommended by the engine builder. After that, there was an article by Ted here recommending any conventional oil with at least a 30 rating or better 10/30/10/40 etc. Certainly got off subject - started with an oil question and ended up with engine color. WOW
We are not in warranty territory here, except perhaps in a very limited sense. The machine shop did the machine work. He's a y-block guy since forever. I have been building it from bare block and heads with valves he put in. I bought the break-in oil from him. I could certainly ask him about after-break-in-oil, but he has retired and sold the business.
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By 57RancheroJim - Last Year
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I've been using Valvoline 10-30 and WIX 51515 filters in my FE, 302, 223 and Y block for years with no problems. The Y block has 19,000 miles now since rebuild.
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By DryLakesRacer - Last Year
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AllenV …. My reference to the 3/4 length Wix is because my 292 is in our 56 car with power steering. The original “canister” oil filter was in the car when I bought it and was extremely difficult to remove without making a mess. I worked a lube rack for Sear Auto Center in the 60’s and don’t remember them being as bad back then. I bought an original Ford screw on adapter and found the Wix 51515 better but still was tight. The Wix 51085 made it easier and are stock on many MOPARS. The 55 pick-up should not have a problem with any of them. PS: I like your bright red.
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By 57RancheroJim - Last Year
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Sorry to get off topic but I noticed the two tapped holes on the top of the timing chain cover, was that only on trucks?
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By AllenV - Last Year
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57RancheroJim (3/29/2023)
Sorry to get off topic but I noticed the two tapped holes on the top of the timing chain cover, was that only on trucks?
I don't know if those tapped holes are truck specific. The water pump is truck specific, with a larger shaft diameter. Nothing was attached to them when I got the truck, but that does not imply they have no truck purpose as my worn out ranch truck certainly economized on parts. I found the holes useful for lifting the motor out of the chassis.
I was interested in the shorter WIX filter just to get more space between the filter and the frame. The truck came with a full-size spin-on filter and I thought I'd like room around the steering box.
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By Scooter - 2 Months Ago
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I have a question about this.
I'm using Royal Purple 10w-30 break in, so glad to hear thays a good choice as I didn't have a choice. They didn't have 4 quarts so I had to buy a quart of RP 10w-40 HPS.
After break in I plan on running Prnngrade 10w-40 oil in this and my 61 tbird FE 390
My only other question is period of time to run the break in oil. I've had mixed opinions given to me. Some say after first drive, while others say 1000 miles. Also been told to use Stiction after break on. Any opinions on that additive?
Opinions welcome! Pic of the engine if anyone is curious.
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By Ted - 2 Months Ago
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Lots of opinions for how long the first oil change needs to be. If having the engine professionally built, go with your engine builders’ recommendation. With the more modern rings and cylinder wall finishes, there’s not a lot of wear taking place meaning the first oil change interval can be extended out longer. The type of oil being used is also a player. If it’s an oil designed specifically for break in purposes, then that oil would need to be removed earlier than what you would find with a more conventional oil. 200 miles use to be the old standard for the first oil change but with the more modern oils, a small micron oil filter, and what starts out as a clean engine build, then that mileage number can be further extended out. Oil is relatively cheap compared to the damage done when not changing it regularly so just change it when in doubt.
Just my opinion on this so other opinions always welcome.
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By Scooter - 2 Months Ago
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Thanks Ted. Your opinion carries some weight. I replaced the piston with Silvo-o-lite cast pistons, I believe I used King piston rings (I'll have to look at my receipt) and I did a medium stone home hone. So I'm thinking maybe 2 or three drives of about 15-20 miles and I'll change the oil when I check the head torque.
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