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By napaunderground - 3 Years Ago
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Short version.
ECZ-G heads have to exhaust port sections that need to be pinned. (cracked) Machine shop says totally fixable, but thinks different heads would be preferrable.
I can't stomach having more heads cleaned to find out they're also bad. We're in it for $280 in cleaning already. 
Machine shop has a set of ECZ-C heads built and ready to go for $950
I paid $150 for the ECZ-G heads empty, so we have to buy valves, springs, etc and have the seats done and milling, etc. I assume it'll be $700 at least for head work.
What would you do? We're not trying to just spend crazy money and just want fun and reliable.
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By Cliff - 3 Years Ago
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The C heads are fine for a driver.
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By napaunderground - 3 Years Ago
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Thanks for the response. Went with the C heads, the machinist did some port work. IDK if it was worth it. But it's done. All told for parts and machine work their part cost $5500. Now I get to play engine assembler/installer.
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By darrell - 3 Years Ago
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ive never seen that kind of money spent on heads.
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By 55blacktie - 3 Years Ago
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Although it's not clear, I think it's safe to assume that's the cost for parts & machine work for the entire engine, not just the heads.
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By miker - 3 Years Ago
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I hope so, but that’s (depending on all that was done) in the neighborhood for the Seattle area. If he’s really in NAPA, you’ve got to add the wine in for lunch, and then who knows………
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By idaho211 - 3 Years Ago
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When I had the machine work done on my 312 the cost made me think if I mess it up when I assemble it I could really waste some money so I just had him assemble it.
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By napaunderground - 3 Years Ago
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Sorry, got pulled away from all the fun by work stuff. :|
So the total cost includes
1) Replacement heads with stronger valve springs
2) Port work on the heads and 4bbl ECZ-B intake
3) Camshaft sent out and reground to a T-Bird 312 profile - true up lifters
4) Replacement crankshaft as ours was damaged due to previous mechanic not tightening flywheel bolts - machined .010 under
5) Block work - bored .040 to get true, squared
6) Cleaning 2 sets of heads that ended up being cracked... fixable, but cracked.
7) Rebuild kit with pistons, etc
8) Check/recondition rods
9) Balance rotating assy.
10) Pertronix distributor and coil
11) Timing chain, oil pump, oil pump drive
Probably something I forgot. Plus I rounded up a little.
I feel like it was a LOT, but things do cost more in this stupid place. I also trust this machinist, so I don't mind paying a premium.
Thanks all!
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By napaunderground - 3 Years Ago
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Oh, I should mention many of the still existing and in-use vineyard fans are 292's according to the machine shop. They have rebuilt many of them.
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By MoonShadow - 3 Years Ago
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http://www.ford-y-block.com/ALUMINUM%20HEADS.htm $3050
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By DryLakesRacer - 3 Years Ago
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Did the work include PC type seals or just the umbrellas?
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By napaunderground - 3 Years Ago
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I didn't specify that I wanted that type, and I didn't ask what was used. I also didn't look yet. (shame on me, I know)
Just didn't want to complicate things more, or incur extra extra extra cost.
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By 55blacktie - 3 Years Ago
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Although my 292 is yet to be rebuilt, I most definitely have spent more time researching what I want than it will take to rebuild the engine. However, the longer it takes, the more likely you will decide to shelve some parts and use others. No doubt, that can be expensive. Once everything goes to the builder, I will live with the results, only because the person who will be doing the work knows what he's doing. I will also rely on him to tell me if he would prefer not to use any of the supplied parts and why. I don't have money to burn, but it doesn't pay to be penny-wise and pound-foolish.
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By DryLakesRacer - 3 Years Ago
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My 292 engine was fresh when I purchased my car 10 yrs ago. A year ago I had a self inflicted reason to remove one of the heads. I noticed oil I didn’t like and decided it was a valve seal problem. I removed the other head and since I had a hand valve spring clamp remover I disassembled both, cleaned the valves and and lapped them. I purchased the seals and the guide cutter from Competition Parts and completed the job myself. I have always paid machinists and did not know how easy this part was to do. There is measurements to take so things don’t hit. My valve seats had been replaced and were fine. I tested each one for leaks and found none. The reason I asked was I’ve asked a few guys about using the positive seals on street engines and all agreed it was a good idea.
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