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By Melly - 2 Years Ago
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Is there a great improvement going from 3 baled fan to a 4 blade? Or is there something else I should do as in slow speed the heat start to rise but does not over heat.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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I'm putting an 18" 6-blade, heavy-duty fan on my 55 Tbird. A bigger fan/w more blades will pull more air. Having a shroud that fits well will help to keep the air flowing through the radiator. Ted Eaton believes that more rows of tubes within the radiator can restrict air flow through the radiator. He prefers fewer, but larger tubes/w more space between them. Having said that, the 55-57 Tbirds left the factory with 3-row radiators. I intend to install a 4-row copper & brass radiator, but aluminum radiators are becoming more popular; generally, they are cheaper, people like them, but they can't be repaired if they leak.
I know someone who is on his 3rd aluminum radiator. The first lasted 10 years. The 2nd, which was a custom application for a 302 Windsor-powered 55 Tbird cost $1,000 and lasted 3 years. The radiator he has now cost less, but too soon to call what it's life expectancy will be. All 3 have been effective in keeping it cool/w the first two until they failed.
If you don't care about originality, you might want to consider an electric fan. If you have a/c, you might want to run a mechanical puller fan and an electric pusher fan between the grill and radiator. Wire the electric fan, so you can turn it off when it's not needed.
I think it was Florida Phil that said he is running both mechanical and electric puller fans between the radiator and engine on his 55 Tbird.
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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You don’t say the model of the vehicle. I fought a cooling problem with my 56 Victoria and tried many remedies and band aid fixes. It occurred when city driving in traffic. I use a Cool Craft brass-copper next one above stock replacement. The final permanent fix was a1969 Mustang 302 waterpump pulley which is smaller than my y-blocks and moved water in the radiator at idle which the stock one would not do. The other fixes that did help was a fan shroud from a company in Texas, the stock panel that sealed the front radiator mount and radiator to the hood, and a 6 blade fan. The car now has AC and cooling has so far not been a problem like it was. The pulley and.and a pulley spacer kit consisting of 3-4 thin spacers for behind the pulley to line-up the belt was from Summit. The pulley was chrome, I painted it black. Good luck.
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By Joe-JDC - 2 Years Ago
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If you folks install aluminum radiators, aluminum timing covers, aluminum heads, or aluminum intake manifolds, you should consider using anti-freeze that is designed for aluminum parts. If you don't you will have a short lived radiator, or corroded aluminum engine part. Joe-JDC
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By Deyomatic - 2 Years Ago
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My "running hot" issues were fixed first by installing the Mustang fan mentioned above, and when I realized there was no thermostat, using the Napa #6 170 Degree High Flow thermostat. That thermostat is a lot better than the others I tried. A LOT.
Good luck.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Years Ago
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As long as the effort of changing fans is contemplated, and originality not an issue, I suggest a clutch fan. While it won’t really effect cooling (compared to a solid-mount example), power loss & risk of damage at high RPMs is minimized.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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Clutch fans don't slip/fail? How do they minimize risk of damage at high rpm? They cost considerably more than a clutchless mechanical fan.
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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Melly…..a test to see if your water pump is moving water thru the radiator is, when cold remove the rad cap and make sure the coolant is 1” low. Start the engine and allow for it to heat up to normal on your gauge or it using a temp gun check at the thermostat at housing for a higher temp than the thermostat. If an automatic car make sure it’s in drive with the e-brake on. Look in the rad for movement. If you see little to none slightly raise the idle maybe 100 rpm and look again. If you see movement go back to idle, if it stops, your engine will never cool at idle in traffic. Mine did this and a member on this site suggested the water pump pulley which cured the temperature creep I had. I’m sure I could go back to a 4 or 5 blade fan and remove the 6. There are those who say not to do this because of pump cavitation if you drive at a continuous 4500 rpm that may be a problem. My engine rarely sees 3000. Hyway driving is 23-2500. Goodluck.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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If you're going to check for coolant flow while your car is running and in gear, I would make sure you've got someone sitting in the driver's seat while you do it.
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By paul2748 - 2 Years Ago
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Amen
55blacktie (6/7/2022)
If you're going to check for coolant flow while your car is running and in gear, I would make sure you've got someone sitting in the driver's seat while you do it.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Years Ago
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55blacktie (6/7/2022)
Clutch fans don't slip/fail? How do they minimize risk of damage at high rpm? They cost considerably more than a clutchless mechanical fan.
They are suppose to ‘slip’, that’s the point. The fan is superfluous at highway speed. If you had ever dropped a tool into the fan while working on a running engine (or had one come apart at 5000rpm), you would likely appreciate ‘slip’.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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Slip, when they shouldn't slip, is not good. Dropping tools into the fan of a running engine? I'm 67 years old and have yet to do that. Makes one appreciate fan shrouds all the more.
My experience tells me that the more parts a component has, the more likely it will fail.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 2 Years Ago
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The test described earlier - running the engine at "Low Idle" (auto trans in drive and a helper behind the wheel) - and looking for flow through an open radiator cap usually tells the tale. Water needs to be warm enough to fully open the T-stat of course .........and the stat needs to be of the higher flow variety. I built a 289 Cougar before the T-bird arrived and water absolutely gushed in that radiator during this test - at low idle in drive. Ran cool, even at parade speeds. It is possible to find a reduced diameter small block ford pulley that fits the Y-block - and gets the same sort of result. It is cheap, almost undetectable (if that's what you want) - and is a mechanically sound solution. You'll also need a smaller belt.
My T-bird had enough nose room for a viscous clutch (sedans don't) - and just for the lovely summer weather we have down here (105º today), I fitted it with a 7 blade GTO aluminum fan. The viscous drive is supposedly about 10% slippage so something had to make up for that.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Years Ago
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55blacktie (6/8/2022)
Slip, when they shouldn't slip, is not good. Dropping tools into the fan of a running engine? I'm 67 years old and have yet to do that. Makes one appreciate fan shrouds all the more.
Greasy hands/funny bounce/Murphy’s Law.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 2 Years Ago
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Went digging in old computer files to find my parts list. I used a Hayden 2797 "Severe Duty Thermal" fan clutch - their spec says 80-90% shaft speed at full engagement. I believe it was initially created for a Ford 351 truck application. Virtually every manufacturer has a variety of fans suitable for a clutch type mounting - can't find it this morning but I had a part number for a Ford steel six blade that would go on there. 
I thought the Poncho 7 blade looked pretty nifty in the bird..
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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Greenbirds explanation of how to solve my cooling problems with a smaller 302 Mustang waterpump pulley years ago made our car usable anywhere at any time. I have shared his information on many websites. Living where he does and wanting to use his car in any month really helps us with similar problems. Once again thanks for your help.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Years Ago
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55blacktie (6/8/2022)
My experience tells me that the more parts a component has, the more likely it will fail.
Good point. It never occurred to me that a viscous clutch might fail, but then it DOES have a bearing. Also didn’t realize there might not be room for one on a passenger car motor (?). While mine (CASCO) is likely a basic model, I see there are even more complicated versions yet available (temp controlled/electronic/etc.). SOME added complications are a justifiable trade-off though (IMO). Not me, but urban Y-Block owners with automatic transmissions might agree (?)
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By Florida_Phil - 2 Years Ago
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I doubt changing the number of fan blades is going to get you where you want to go. Here in Central Florida, the weather is hot and traffic is heavy. At a car show, you may have to wait in line with your engine running for some time. My TBird had evidence of earlier overheating "fixes". A previous owner had used a torch to smoke holes in the lower radiator valance in an attempt to increase air flow. This actually made things worse. To remedy the situation, I started with an aluminum radiator and a wide mouth thermostat. My old original radiator was in bad shape and I could not find anyone in my area to work on it. I tried many different fans and they didn't have much effect. All they did was make noise. For $200, I bought an EBay Champion aluminum radiator and an electric fan. My current setup is to remove the belt driven fan entirely and use the electric fan continuously. This was a big improvement, but I still had slight issues in the heat of summer traffic. I learned that Tbirds have a 1" spacer behind the water pump that causes water flow issues at idle speeds. I installed a Casco improved water pump with longer blades and this worked great. One of the first things you should do is install a quality water temperature gauge so you know what you are dealing with. Those dash gauges are worthless. I am currently happy with my Tbird's operating temperature. Some members have installed a smaller diameter water pump pulley to increase flow. Casco sells the correct one. I haven't tried it.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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Any benefit from reducing parasitic loss by using an aftermarket fan would be a far second from having a fan that's going to keep air flowing through the radiator to reduce engine temperature. Nevertheless, if you have found the right combination for success, that's great. If Chris Ames's Paragon Industries Tbird wp spacer, Casco's HD wp and lower fan shroud, 6-blade mechanical fan, wide-mouth thermostat, smaller pulley, and 4-row copper & brass U.S. Radiator don't get the job done, I'll add an electric pusher fan between the grill and radiator. I'll also make sure that any rust/scale is removed from the block as part of the rebuild process.
The thermometer reached 105 in the Central Valley yesterday, and 101 expected today. However, my Tbird doesn't have a/c. What that means is when it's too hot for me, it's too hot for the Tbird; it will stay in the garage.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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I forgot timing.LOL
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By 1/8cavman - 2 Years Ago
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All the preceding info is great and mostly correct. My 50 cents worth. Volumes have been written about T-bird overheating. I have owned my 56 Bird since 1970. It was my only car and a daily driver. The daily driver didn't last because of living on the Oregon coast with lots of rain. I knew it would leak into the interior, but raining sideways was like no top. Shortly after buying it I had some over heating problems. So a total rebuild was in order. This was done under very experienced eye of a Ford mechanic. He warned me not to bore it .060 over but it is still going strong at over 50000 miles. Balanced, three angle valve seats and amateur porting, 600 cfm Holley, has ran great. All this said when prepping the block for new soft plugs I was using a long thin screw driver to get the water jackets clean. I got rust and SAND out. Ran the block through the hot tank again and removed a little more. Ted, any comments? Also ran across this sand thing with a friends Y-block in a later rebuild. Could this be casting sand? A 6 blade fan from a 406 FE, large hole t-stat, Champion aluminum radiator has made this engine run very well in stop and go heat. Only time it got a little warm was in a very slow stop and go cruise up hill in 95 to 100+ heat. Pop the hood to let heat out and rev the engine kept it below 190 degrees. No other problems. Getting the HOT air out the engine compartment when moving slow would help a lot. The improved spacer and larger impeller water pump are real good investments. 1\8 Cav Man
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By Florida_Phil - 2 Years Ago
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As a side note, my 292 block is .060" over. I do not run a belt driven fan or a shroud. I run 100% straight green antifreeze with no other additives. I do not have air conditioning. My electric fan runs all the time. I turn it off in the winter or my engine does not run hot enough. My engine was rebuilt about 3,000 miles ago. I run a stock 1957 Ford distributor with a Pertronix unit and coil. My timing is 36 degrees total.
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By Ted - 2 Years Ago
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1/8cavman (6/12/2022)
.........when prepping the block for new soft plugs I was using a long thin screw driver to get the water jackets clean. I got rust and SAND out. Ran the block through the hot tank again and removed a little more. Ted, any comments? Also ran across this sand thing with a friends Y-block in a later rebuild. Could this be casting sand? ........ 1\8 Cav Man
You asked so here are some of my thoughts on that.
Sand/dirt build up in the blocks is common but I don't think it's casting sand. This is not just a Y-Block nuance but all engines in general. I call it ‘Mud’ and it gets packed in there very tightly or hard. Most older engines in the shop for rebuild have it and it is attributed to using tap water for the cooling system. While distilled water is recommended for cooling system use, that is not a standard practice. That ‘Mud’ typically accumulates at the back of the block around the rear cylinders where the water flow is slowest and then has to transition up to the cylinder heads to make its way forward to exit the engine. That transition upwards has the solids in the coolant dropping out at that point. Because it accumulates mostly around the rear cylinders, it does add to abnormal heating of the engine at the rear of the block. Not thoroughly cleaning the block during the rebuilding process has that new engine running hotter than normal than it should.
Removing it requires some serious cleaning of which manually breaking it up and digging it out is required before actually doing a wash on the block. Using a caustic tank or wash initially is not enough to remove that sludge without some initial digging first. The really bad blocks will have a quart or more of that sludge in each side.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 2 Years Ago
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Ted is spot on. My experience was spending countless hours digging, scraping, poking scratching at the stuff with anything I could get down in there. Including hand bent rods with hooked ends to reach the difficult areas. This was AFTER I picked up the block from where it was hot tanked and machined at a reputable shop. My engine was probably one of the worse examples as it spent it's entire life still in use until 2010, in the western desert area of the US where antifreeze was not a great concern. It was like mud turned into cement. I found it actually impossible to remove 100% but proved to be good enough as I have no overheating issues what so ever. That being said, the truck and I live in Michigan and a 64 F100 has very little air flow restrictions. I don't ever remember vehicles having overheating issues in the day.
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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Not having any other reason to respond one more time to the question which Melly asked but we have 3 pages and countless answers for cooling problems Melly didn’t ask and apparently doesn’t have. From his information and photo I believe the car in question is a 55 Victoria or Crown Victoria. I too am the blame. He has never responded since his first inquiry.
Answer: The addition of a 4 blade from a 3 blade will help if the cooling system is in good shape by drawing more air thru the radiator core.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 2 Years Ago
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I understand the thoughts Melly has about the increase to four fan blades. When I got my bird (from an owner who had bought it used in 57) - it had a four blade and a three blade was in the trunk. When I went to a local gathering of birds at the annual "Cops and Rodders" show, I looked around carefully to see what the locals were doing about the typical 105º here in Tucson. That group told me the four blade was a Ford "fix" of the bygone era when these cars (the little birds) were relatively new. I think all agreed - it didn't work. All were thinking that the guy from Green Valley - that had a re-cored radiator - had done the best mod. At this point I would have to agree. I've made changes for the better in mine, but in the end the ability of the small original radiator to deal with high ambients - and stop'n go trafffic - really pushes it. Not enough heat rejection capability.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Years Ago
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When I first obtained my ‘55 Bird, I had the mechanic who prepped it install a 4-blade fan (the orig. chromed 3-blade part had been replaced with a black one long ago though). Years later I had it powder coated silver (easier to clean). As it isn’t correct for a ‘55, and I won’t give up my 6-blade/clutch fan since my car is a ‘driver’, the O.P might want it?
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By rponfick - 2 Years Ago
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At least your fan blades were not installed backwards like mine was on my '57 Tbird when I acquired it. It is a 6-blade model, but somebody got confused.
Ralph
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By bird55 - 2 Years Ago
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And then there is mine which is a 7-blade flex fan. not sure where I got it but it has been working well for at least 40 years. Lots of details to consider cooling off the little bird. The biggest difference in all my mods and attempts was not on purpose, It's when I added the FPR headers. much quicker cool down, less heat soak. Also, something that is always overlooked and dismissed is the depth of the fan blades, the fit, and SEAL of the fan shroud, AND the depth at which the fan enters the shroud. lots to be experimented with and no sure-fire solution. When I run down the hiway on a trip during summer I open the hood and use a cinch strap to keep it secure. The heat dumps out pretty well this way.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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I would like to see a photo of the cinch strap.
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By bird55 - 2 Years Ago
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It's just a simple nylon strap with a plastic buckle, like what is on a life jacket. You could use something else similar, certainly safer. If you don't use the strap, at approx. 70 mph the hood will only rise up an inch or 2 (DON'T EVEN TRY THIS AS IT'S DANGEROUS AS HELL!) BUT, I used to do it when I was about 18 yrs old all the time, so that is my research, haha. Everyone knows you are invincible at that time in your life! So, what I learned is one could control or curb the rise of the hood with a cinch strap or two (better) in case of any kind of gust or crosswind. Like I said I'm not recommending it for you. But it does help. Lovering the trailing edge of the hood would accomplish the same thing but obviously an irreversible solution. I strapped it from the hood release bar to the springs on the hood pins. I haven't done this in a while since the need hasn't arisen.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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How many times did motorists go out of their way to tell you that your hood was open?
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By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (6/11/2022)
I learned that Tbirds have a 1" spacer behind the water pump that causes water flow issues at idle speeds. I installed a Casco improved water pump with longer blades and this worked great.
Phil,
Which gen. CASCO pump do you have? While speaking with Chris (Paragon) re: his improved spacer design, the subject of 1st gen. Casco riveted pump blade failures came up. With my coolant drained & fan removed, I noticed a subtle tinkling sound when spinning the pump shaft (loose rivets?). According to Chris, when those blades finally do come off, they sometimes make a hole in the spacer, and result in sudden coolant loss. Current 3rd. gen. pumps have a solid impeller with deeper vanes, and they can upgrade your pump ($50), something I plan to do though I have to wonder how much life is left in the pump bearings after running their (nose-heavy) clutch fan setup for over 25K miles? (no discernible side play, but impeller/shaft DOES spin quite easily).
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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If I recall correctly, Casco's $50 upgrade consists of adding the riveted vanes to your pump. They will not replace yours with the 1-piece cast vanes (I wish they did). I have one of their riveted pumps; although it's still intact (little use), I don't intend to use it when my engine is rebuilt.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Years Ago
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55blacktie (9/3/2022)
If I recall correctly, Casco's $50 upgrade consists of adding the riveted vanes to your pump. They will not replace yours with the 1-piece cast vanes (I wish they did). I have one of their riveted pumps; although it's still intact (little use), I don't intend to use it when my engine is rebuilt.
THANK YOU blacktie!
I misread their catalog blurb. It DOES say the upgrade is ‘2nd gen.’. I only assumed they would naturally use their latest impeller design (go figure). Also, they charged me $60 (inflation?) to supposedly reserve an impeller (catalog stated ‘while supplies last’, so I also ‘assumed’ a 3rd gen. production/delivery problem. Rather deceptive on their part, creeping senility on my part).
I will likely apply the $60 toward a new pump, or maybe they will just send me a 3rd gen. impeller, if they have them stocked separately, and it will merely press-on (?) whatever pump shaft I want (I have an alum. pump on my spare motor).
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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It's highly unlikely that Casco will send the cast impeller to you, but they will sell the latest generation pump/w cast impeller. Expect to pay about $30 for shipping. You can get the same pump from Concours, and they are having a 10% off Labor Day Sale through the 9th.
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By Richard - 2 Years Ago
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I would like to get the Summit 302 water pump pulley kit but hard to tell which one it is.
Appreciate a part number.
thanks,
Richard
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By paul2748 - 2 Years Ago
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Only one way to find out - call them about it.
DANIEL TINDER (9/4/2022)
55blacktie (9/3/2022)
If I recall correctly, Casco's $50 upgrade consists of adding the riveted vanes to your pump. They will not replace yours with the 1-piece cast vanes (I wish they did). I have one of their riveted pumps; although it's still intact (little use), I don't intend to use it when my engine is rebuilt. THANK YOU blacktie! I misread their catalog blurb. It DOES say the upgrade is ‘2nd gen.’. I only assumed they would naturally use their latest impeller design (go figure). Also, they charged me $60 (inflation?) to supposedly reserve an impeller (catalog stated ‘while supplies last’, so I also ‘assumed’ a 3rd gen. production/delivery problem. Rather deceptive on their part, creeping senility on my part). I will likely apply the $60 toward a new pump, or maybe they will just send me a 3rd gen. impeller, if they have them stocked separately, and it will merely press-on (?) whatever pump shaft I want (I have an alum. pump on my spare motor).
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By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Years Ago
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55blacktie (9/4/2022)
It's highly unlikely that Casco will send the cast impeller to you, but they will sell the latest generation pump/w cast impeller. Expect to pay about $30 for shipping. You can get the same pump from Concours, and they are having a 10% off Labor Day Sale through the 9th.
Thanks again blacktie,
I fleshed out the 10%-off order and got free shipping (over $30) also. Fresh pump bearings for now, and likely can salvage the impeller later on. Will cancel the Casco order.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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Daniel, did the free shipping include the pump? They told me it's considered a heavy/bulky item for which free shipping doesn't apply. Of course, the cost would be included in the $300+ for free shipping for your other items.
Happy to be of service. Isn't that why we're here?
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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Dang, Richard, you must have deep pockets (assuming you're talking about the Y-block serpentine kit). If just the smaller wp pulley, less than $100 for 302 pulley. Tbird suppliers have 1-inch smaller pulley for about $100 + shipping.
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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Credit card. Dollar down and a dollar if you catch me.
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By Richard - 2 Years Ago
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No I don’t have deep pockets. I think I read $30 for the smaller chrome pulley and shims. No way would I put serpentine system. I run a generator and stock starter.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Years Ago
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55blacktie (9/4/2022)
Daniel, did the free shipping include the pump?
No. $30, but everything else free.
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By MplsMike - 2 Years Ago
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Deyomatic- do you have a part number for the thermostat you referenced (Napa #6 170 Degree High Flow thermostat)? I found a 160, two 180 and one 195 thermostat on the Napa website, but not a 170. I am driving ‘56 wagon. Do birds use the same thermostats as full size Fords?
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By Richard - 2 Years Ago
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Is this the water pump pulley I’m after. 68-69 289-303 short C80E-8A528A
6 1/8 dia 2 3/8 deep
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By paul2748 - 2 Years Ago
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The NAPA # 6 also goes under the number THM 6
MplsMike (9/5/2022)
Deyomatic- do you have a part number for the thermostat you referenced (Napa #6 170 Degree High Flow thermostat)? I found a 160, two 180 and one 195 thermostat on the Napa website, but not a 170. I am driving ‘56 wagon. Do birds use the same thermostats as full size Fords?
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By MplsMike - 2 Years Ago
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Thanks, Paul.
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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Richard, I used a Trans Dap 8300 from Summit. 6-1/8 for a Mustang. It was steel chrome and painted it black. It lines up with the closest damper pulley to the engine. Since I have 3 lower pulleys I needed a spacer kit so the fan would clear the third one. I believe I used a spacer behind it also for perfect alignment. It solved my heating up in traffic or idling by speeding up the pump.
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By Tealy64 - Last Year
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If I need to replace my radiator, I'm also thinking of going with an electric fan. I'm not worrying about originality, I just want the engine to keep cool, look and run good and not lose any HP unnecessarily. Do these fans wire into the current temp sensor, do to they require their own?
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By DryLakesRacer - Last Year
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Posting removed. Information was for a car. Unknown if it pertains to a truck. Sorry.
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By FORD DEARBORN - Last Year
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There is very good air flow through the radiator in these trucks. I have never ever had any overheating issues with my truck even on +90* days in traffic. Engine is a 312 with a mild cam. I'm presently running a 5 blade fan on a fluid clutch (Mustang) to keep it quiet at higher rpm's..Even with the stock 4 blade, there were no heating issues either. As DLR stated, an electric fan will add load to the electrical system which would be quite heavy for a generator if that's what you are running. Like, there's no free lunch. This is simply my exprience with my 64 F100, your results may vary.
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By Tealy64 - Last Year
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Thanks FD, I'm thinking if I go with a 5 blade, maybe a little bigger (need to measure mine first) I should be good to at least to start with. I'm here in FL where it gets mondo hot during the summer, so I want to make sure that I don't have any overheating issues.
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By DryLakesRacer - Last Year
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If the temperature creeps up when idling at a stopped intersection and then does not quickly recover when moving then the smaller water pump pulley with definitely help. These vehicles did not heat up when new or for many years after being built and the only real difference is the formulation of the gasoline which we do not control. Good luck
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By FORD DEARBORN - Last Year
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Some of these trucks (71-74) were built with fan shrouds depending on engine option. A shroud would be a big plus if your truck doesn't have one. There usedto be a fella who specializes in vintage Ford trucks and salvaged parts. I'll try to find that source and report back just in case you might want to explore that option.
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By FORD DEARBORN - Last Year
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Found it and will attempt to post the link - called Flashback F100's. Has been a very good source of vintage Ford truck parts, great folks to do business with when restoring my truck many years ago and interesting web site to explore. Hope this helps....... http://flashbackf100s.com/about_us
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