PCV in Rear of Valley Tray


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic152487.aspx
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By MattsY - 4 Years Ago
Anyone ever try one of these adapters to use a PCV valve from the rear breather hole in the valley cover? Yes, it's a road draft conversion for a small block scruby, but it looks like it'll fit nicely!
By PF Arcand - 4 Years Ago
Is that for an in line pcv  ?
By MattsY - 4 Years Ago
Yup, for an inline PCV. This seems very similar to an original Ford part that I'm told is rare and hard to come by.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/8b36ceab-b52a-425a-923d-781f.jpg
By 56_Fairlane - 4 Years Ago
I found an original one for mine. I would try one of these if I hadn't found one.
By miker - 4 Years Ago
I've used these on couple engines. You need to make sure there's a baffle under it, if you've got an aluminum valley pan you have to add one. Otherwise you'll suck a ton of oil.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52225/10002/-1
By 30 coupe - 4 Years Ago
I have a couple of the Ford ones, but they would not work with the Edelbrock 3x2 intake I just put on my car. I ended up modifying the valley pan and used a regular small block ford pcv valve and rubber grommet
By darrell - 4 Years Ago
ive used them before to make a pcv setup.they are not that hard to find if your in an area with lots of old trucks junked.63 and 64 with a 2 bbl carb had them.not sure if they had any earlier.
By MattsY - 4 Years Ago
I'm using the original valley pan, so it's baffled. I would just use a PCV valve in the hole with a grommet, but the threaded hold down stud for the breather tube is still there and in the way. It knocks out through the bottom and I don't really want to take the manifold off to remove the tray.
By darrell - 4 Years Ago
any i seen juts screwed out from the top
By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
Original was a screw, not a stud.  If it is simply a stud, then it should come out but if the previous owner used loctite to ensure that it doesn't move when tightened or even had a bolt welded to the bottom or something else, then it may not come out very easily.  
By 30 coupe - 4 Years Ago
In my valley cover, there was a  "stud" that the screw would screw into.   this "stud a' was/is spot welded from the bottom side of the valley cover.  I removed the thing from the bottom side, then welded up the small holes where the spot welds were ( 3 of them ).  probably did not need to as they were very small, and there is a baffle there.  after this is removed a pcv valve and a rubber grommet can be installed directly into the valley cover with no problems. when I get back into town where my car is, I will try and take some pictures, if any one wants to see them.
By MattsY - 4 Years Ago
Yes, I misused the term "stud". It is a threaded insert for the hold down screw that is pressed in and spot welded from the bottom. I want to avoid pulling the intake if possible.
By 30 coupe - 4 Years Ago
I had to remove the valley pan. I could see no other way to remove the "stud" without damaging the valley cover.
By Ted - 4 Years Ago
In lieu of removing the hollow stud in that rear hole in the valley cover and especially for those cases where I might want to retain that hollow stud for restoration purposes, I have in the past machined a spacer that simply attaches to the cover with a ¼-20 screw or bolt where the original road draft tube attached.  Machining a lip at the bottom of the spacer allows it to remain firmly seated in place as well as allowing the oem gasket originally used for the road draft tube to be used.  A grommet and PCV valve are used in the newly installed spacer.  Here are some pics.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/dc282ea8-255c-4ded-b990-3756.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/935c522e-7b32-4e8b-9217-a924.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/2c6c48df-e8af-4e65-9ce8-b96d.jpg 
 
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b2d975d6-e9c6-48a1-99ea-92b8.jpg
  
And here’s the link to the thread where this was originally posted.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic142341-1.aspx
By MattsY - 4 Years Ago
Ted (7/7/2020)
In lieu of removing the hollow stud in that rear hole in the valley cover and especially for those cases where I might want to retain that hollow stud for restoration purposes, I have in the past machined a spacer that simply attaches to the cover with a ¼-20 screw or bolt where the original road draft tube attached.  Machining a lip at the bottom of the spacer allows it to remain firmly seated in place as well as allowing the oem gasket originally used for the road draft tube to be used.  A grommet and PCV valve are used in the newly installed spacer.  Here are some pics.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/dc282ea8-255c-4ded-b990-3756.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/935c522e-7b32-4e8b-9217-a924.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/2c6c48df-e8af-4e65-9ce8-b96d.jpg 
 
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b2d975d6-e9c6-48a1-99ea-92b8.jpg
  
And here’s the link to the thread where this was originally posted.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic142341-1.aspx




Now there's an idea. I have a lathe and I probably have some aluminum stock of the correct size. I may "borrow" that from you Ted. Thank you!
By 2721955meteor - 4 Years Ago
i removed the pcvvalve .instead piped the hose into the air cleaner so not going into the carb base. the fiting is past the air filter so does not plug the air filter'i use a after market air cleaner with a dry element. it al lhandels base pressure very well . just block the fitting into the holley carb