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By Tim Quinn - 4 Years Ago
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Anyone familiar with FiTech 30003 Fuel injection on a Y-block ?
Tim
Mud Key, Fl 33706
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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I have done several fuel injection setups including the FiTech units. What’s the question?
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By Tim Quinn - 4 Years Ago
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Are they worth the time and investment. Will the gas mileage increase to make installing them a benefit?
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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The big advantage to the fuel injection units is the cold starting and overall drivability. My experience has been that both the gas mileage and peak performance will be the same with a finely tuned fuel injection unit versus that of a carburetor. With the price of the fuel injection units now being what they are, they are a good investment and as an added benefit, they are more ethanol friendly than carburetors.
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By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
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Fuel injection will allow the engine to receive the a/f ratio it needs with high precision. A carburetor can do very well in that regard, too as long as it is tuned well. Any mileage change will depend a lot on how well it is currently tuned vs how well it will be tuned with the fuel injection. Good mileage with either requires that the rest of the engine be in good working order.
That particular fuel injection system is about the price of a high end carburetor, so it should be worth the money so long as you're willing to deal with the wiring and installation.
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By Tim Quinn - 4 Years Ago
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Good info,
Thanks from Florida and 55 degress
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By Tim Quinn - 4 Years Ago
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Thanks Ted,
Good info to help me make up my mind in which way to go.
Based on yearly miles driven etc will be a factor.
Tim
Central Florida 33706
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By PF Arcand - 4 Years Ago
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So, what is involved with the change over installation for that unit?.
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By mikeT - 4 Years Ago
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Hi! Ted
i plan on using FiTechs 2x4 system on my hot rod 292 y block, wonder how it will work with my camshaft with 238 duration? Planning on around 9:1 cr for premium pump gas.
I figure it will be much better than tuning 2 carbs for street use.
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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Why use two 4s? I doubt your Yblock can make use of that much cfm and you are doubling the expense. If you want eye candy, I would stay with carbs. If you buy new carbs, they shouldn't be hard to tune. I have two Holley 465s and an Edelbrock FM255 sitting on my bench right now. My car runs so good with one 465, I'm afraid to mess it up. :>
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By Joe-JDC - 4 Years Ago
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It is not the tune so much as the fuel evaporating and gunking up the carburetors that is the driving force for EFI. I am planning the 2 x 4 EFI install for my '55 Thunderbird after I get everything sorted out. I hate to have to open the hood, remove the air cleaner, get my little squirt bottle of gasoline, funnel, and fill the carburetor, pump the accelerator until the fuel starts coming out the squirters, and then start the engine. That gets old unless you actually start the engine every three or four days. My T-bird sits for several weeks at the time, and this is what I have to do to start it again. I had an electric fuel pump installed between the tank and engine fuel pump, and it didn't last very long before it failed and blocked the fuel to the mechanical pump. I know there has to be a better way, and there are supposed pumps that allow fuel to bypass when the pump is turned off, but I haven't found one as yet that is reliable. Joe-JDC
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By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
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Carter electric pumps have been reliable for me. However, I do not have a mechanical pump installed so I cannot speak to how well it free flows when turned off.
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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When I bought my car it had it's original TPot carb. It also had an old electric fuel pump and a very crusty gas tank. It ran like crap. My new engine has a modern mechanical fuel pump and a 1848-1 Holley four barrel with the choke disconnected. I also have a mechanical advance distributor with a Pertronix module and coil. My engine is in perfect tune. It idles and runs like a watch. I never have to remove the air cleaner to start it. I pump the gas and it starts. As soon as it warms up a little, I'm off.
Admittedly, I live in Central Florida and I drive my car at least once a week. I should fix the choke, but it isn't necessary where I live. I honestly don't believe you are going to gain that much with EFI. If you want it for the cool factor, I get it.
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By Vic Correnti - 4 Years Ago
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Joe what carbs dry up? I have had 2×4s, Carters and Edelbrocks for 50 years typically sits 4 or 5 months through the winters. I have an electric fuel pump turn it on for a bit it turns over a couple of times and runs perfectly after all winter. They never leak, I don't even have chokes in them. I have not had to adjust or do anything to them since they were adjusted at Ted's which has to be close to 10 years ago. I probably missing some hp by not having some other type carbs but I don't like having to fiddle with them all the time. I do think that EFI will do the same but I like old school cool.
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By Joe-JDC - 4 Years Ago
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Nearly 10 years ago? NO WAY! LOL, It seems like a couple of years ago. I have a couple of intakes I would like for you to try, but that would be a hassle to change things around. Anyway, Autolite carbs have the accelerator pump housing under the carb body, and so does Holley. These evaporate out rather quickly here in San Antonio. I keep the T-bird in the AC section of my garage, and it will still need primed after about 10 days. I am procrastinating about installing all the new parts on the engine until I get the car stripped and painted. Joe-JDC
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By Vic Correnti - 4 Years Ago
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Are you against using an electric fuel pump without the mechanical pump, sure makes starting easy after sitting. I have had no failures with the red or the blue Holley pumps. I know there are better pumps out there too. So now that you threw me a bone I have to ask what kind of changes required? Right now I have installed a different clutch system and have to work through some growing pains. Any chance you going to the Shootout this year?
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By Joe-JDC - 4 Years Ago
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Not against an electric fuel pump, but not happy with the noise of the Holley blue pump, either. I have a Edelbrock 257 that I have gone back through, and picked up a little flow over your figures, and a couple of larger Edelbrock carbs that I think would be worth some et. With the possibility of another Masters of Motors Challenge this fall, I may be really busy with a couple of engine builds, and a trip to Alaska. Looks like a full Spring and Summer again. Joe-JDC
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By Vic Correnti - 4 Years Ago
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I have isolated my blue Holley by suspending from a 1/2" thick piece of a truck mud flap and don't hardly hear it but my cars exhaust is not the quietest but the exhaust does exit out the back like it should on a 55 bird. So how big are the Edelbrocks? I'm running 2-600s now with the secondary air flap crap removed. Any thoughts how much I increased the cfm?
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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PF Arcand (1/31/2020)
So, what is involved with the change over installation for that unit?.
Besides having the appropriate intake manifold for the throttle body that's being used, Installation of the aftermarket fuel injection units requires good electrical connections including the grounds. The wide band oxygen sensors are very sensitive to vacuum and header/exhaust leaks so those must be eliminated. Some units require a return fuel line back to the tank; I’ve worked around some of those by just having the return line go back in at the inlet side of the externally mounted fuel pump. A good charging system with an alternator would be a prerequisite.
Age is going to be your enemy with anything electrical as any terminal corrosion that takes place will have the systems not necessarily failing but instead doing funny stuff that may be hard to trouble shoot. Reduced voltage or voltage spikes also creates some unique tuning problems. Soldering all the electrical connections does not guarantee that this will fix the problem as soldering actually speeds up that corrosion process in some instances. You’ll not see soldered connections in an airplane, just crimped terminals.
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By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
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The Carter pumps use grommets in the bracket to suspend the pump. As long as you use a length of rubber hose between hard line ( or maybe even rubberized support for the hard line), it is pretty quiet.
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By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
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I've been running dual quads for 5 years only using my once since original startup. My engine is a stock 40 over 292. Yes they are a matched set of Carter WCFB's for 1953 Oldsmobiles on an Eldbrock manifold. I did it for looks but they have stayed because they have absolutely trouble free. I use 1 oz. of Sta-Bil in every fillup. My wife just commented last Friday night going to a local car gathering how you could not feel the engine running while we waited at a traffic light.
As for power it will take what ever I want give it. I have never floored it from a stop or drag race the car. It will run right up to 100 with all 8 barrels open and the speedo is dead on. I have a 3-speed auto trans and a 2.74 rear end and fuel milage is ok with me. If it sits for 1-2 weeks one full pump of the foot feed will set the choke (about 1/3) and idle. At a month I crank it 10-15 seconds and the full foot feed to set the choke and starts right up.
Good luck which ever you choose.
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By HT32BSX115 - 4 Years Ago
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[/quote] Soldering all the electrical connections does not guarantee that this will fix the problem as soldering actually speeds up that corrosion process in some instances. You’ll not see soldered connections in an airplane, just crimped terminals.
[quote] You're right.....but corrosion is not really a problem with soldered connections when rosin core solder is used.....meaning NEVER use plumbing solder or plumbing flux in any soldered electrical connection.
Soldered aircraft connections are "prohibited" because of vibration. Soldered connections will eventually break right at the connector.
There are aircraft that are over 70 years old (My 1947 Stinson for example) that have all original crimped connections and none haven't failed yet. Ground connections OTOH, can be a problem if they're not shiny and tight where they are bolted/screwed on.
Ted, my question about the FITECH sysem is which fuel pump would you choose if you wanted the most reliable one?
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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HT32BSX115 (3/14/2020)
Ted, my question about the FITECH sysem is which fuel pump would you choose if you wanted the most reliable one?
I have been both ways on the fuel pumps regarding internal versus external. External is definitely easier but it’s important that the pumps be mounted low or at a position not higher than the bottom of the tank. The major concern with internally mounted pumps would be with any rubber connections and electrical connections. Without any data to support otherwise, I would have to say that the internal pumps would be the most reliable in the long run but would be more difficult to service when the time came to do so. As with any internally mounted fuel pump, it’s important to never run the tanks down below the fuel pump and even worse, running the tanks empty of fuel.
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By marvh - 4 Years Ago
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I installed the FAST fuel injection system on my Crown with 312, Mummert heads, intake and MSD ignition about 10years ago (just recently sold the car).
I bought a fuel tank with the opening to install an in-tank fuel pump, bought the adapter plate to install an in-tank fuel pump and bent dual 3/8 ss fuel lines for return system. There was a choice between Walbro and Denso pumps. Experience with Walbro pumps was they are very noisy and more failure prone than Denso. The fuel pump I used was a Denso fuel pump for a twin turbo Datsun. I needed 37 PSIG for the FI system. Most FI pumps will not produce that pressure I had a hard time getting the pressure info from Denso, they were very reluctant, finally got the info. Ted is 100% correct on the internal tank rubber fuel lines as the fuel will attack the outer surface of the hose leave a pile of residual sludge floating in the tank. General use fuel hoses have internal materials fuel resistant. One needs a fuel hose internal and external fuel resistant. These are available, just very expensive. I paid over 20$ US for less than a foot. About a foot is needed for both line connections, just make sure to clamp hoses secure. I used Oetiker ear clamps. Never replaced the lines after installing. PS The adapter plate is designed to drizzle a small amount of fuel over the pump when low tank to provide cooling to the pump
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By pegleg - 4 Years Ago
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Ted the pump has been in my Tank for over ten years with zero problems and I can use E-10 without issues so far. I did switch the pump so I can turn it off it I wish.
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