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By 55 GLASS TOP - 4 Years Ago
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Hello , can I knock the bolts out with a hammer to change them or must they be pressed out thanks
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By darrell - 4 Years Ago
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they are easy to knock out
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By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
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You have to have the big end resized. Let the machine shop handle it, unless you just want to remove them.
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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Charlie beat me to the post but I'll add a bit more detail.
Be aware that removing the bolts from the rods and reinstalling the bolts again requires that the connecting rod big ends be resized. For a quick test on this, just knock out the bolts in one rod, put the bolts back in the opposing holes, re-torque the nuts with the cap in place, and then measure the hole. You’ll now find it out of round. You may not even have to measure the hole if you feel a staggered lip at the bearing hole parting lines.
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By 55 GLASS TOP - 4 Years Ago
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So if I do not change the bolts I do not have to have the rods resized
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By PF Arcand - 4 Years Ago
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Depends on what U intend to do with the engine. If they are probably original & any kind of higher performance is planned, best follow what has been recommended here & also replace them..
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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Don't use 60+ year old rod bolts. Use ARP bolts and have the rods resized and bushed. These engines are old. Your mains are probably out of align too.
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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55 GLASS TOP (1/15/2020)
So if I do not change the bolts I do not have to have the rods resized
If the bolts are removed from the rods and regardless if the same bolts or new ones are reinstalled, rod big end resizing is required.
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By 55 GLASS TOP - 4 Years Ago
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Just ordered a set of ARP bolts I will get the rods resized as advised thank you . This is why I come here for the knowledge
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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Be aware that ARP offers two different bolt sets for the Ford Y rods. The 154-6004 bolt set is for the ECZ, C1TE, & C2AE rods. The 154-6005 bolt set is for the EBU rods.
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By 55 GLASS TOP - 4 Years Ago
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I have EBU rods luckily I ordered the correct # 154-6005 thanks again
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By '49 bomb! - 4 Years Ago
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Great reply Ted! I had a bad experience with ARP rod bolts. When I was installing them for final assembly. Upon torquing them down, I was not getting a good feeling from my torque wrench. (I use an old snap-on wrench with dial indicator, so I can get a feel for the bolts). They didn't feel right ,so I checked the rod bolts and I came to find out, they weren't threaded enough up the bolt. So I had to put washers underneath the head of the bolts. To make sure I had enough threads grabbing with the nut. I don't know if this was caused by having the rods resized?
Or I just didn't have the correct bolts. Long story short, if I wasn't a seasoned engine builder ,I wouldn't haven't noticed the rod bolts were not getting the right crush! I would have spun a bearing!
I called ARP about it and didn't get much satisfaction. So beware of ARP bolts.
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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'49 bomb! (1/16/2020)
Great reply Ted! I had a bad experience with ARP rod bolts. When I was installing them for final assembly. Upon torquing them down, I was not getting a good feeling from my torque wrench. (I use an old snap-on wrench with dial indicator, so I can get a feel for the bolts). They didn't feel right ,so I checked the rod bolts and I came to find out, they weren't threaded enough up the bolt. So I had to put washers underneath the head of the bolts. To make sure I had enough threads grabbing with the nut. I don't know if this was caused by having the rods resized? Or I just didn't have the correct bolts. Long story short, if I wasn't a seasoned engine builder ,I wouldn't haven't noticed the rod bolts were not getting the right crush! I would have spun a bearing! I called ARP about it and didn't get much satisfaction. So beware of ARP bolts.
I doubt that resizing the rods would be the reason you ran out of threads. A worse case scenario for rod resizing would be the total length of the rod bolt hole (includes both the rod and the cap) being 0.012” shorter. When resizing connecting rods on my end, I typically only shorten up the total length no more than 0.004” and that’s a result of taking 0.002” off the rods and 0.002” off of the caps.
In your case, it could have simply been the wrong part number bolt set for the application, a mis-packaged set of bolts, or a set of bolts that were manufactured wrong. It’s good that you picked up on the threaded part of the bolts being too short when you did
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By '49 bomb! - 4 Years Ago
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Great reply Ted! I know you're a busy man! and we all appreciate you taking the time to help us out... In my case with these rod bolts. My experience saved the engine.what if a novice would have been putting his first engine together, and didn't know about this, he would have spun the bearings and blew the engine up! And he would have never known what went wrong...
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By 2721955meteor - 4 Years Ago
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'49 bomb! (1/20/2020)
Great reply Ted! I know you're a busy man! and we all appreciate you taking the time to help us out... In my case with these rod bolts. My experience saved the engine.what if a novice would have been putting his first engine together, and didn't know about this, he would have spun the bearings and blew the engine up! And he would have never known what went wrong...
I HAVE yet to see a broken con rod bolt from a stock y block, even with a bearing failure from no oil,usually the rod breaks. i do agree with others if you ar looking at7000 rpm replace resize
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 4 Years Ago
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I personally suffered a broken rod bolt in my supercharged 312 in my drag car. I don't have any record of how many 1/4 mile passes were on the rods when it finally let go. When the bolt broke, the bottom end of the rod opened up and disconnected itself from the crankshaft, but the other bolt didn't break, just bent. It knocked a hole in the block side and also broke a cylinder wall. I did drive it up on the truck anyway. I saved the crankshaft, cam, cylinder heads, oil pan (had to patch it), and timing cover.
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By 2721955meteor - 4 Years Ago
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missed my point, super charged 312 drag racing yes i would chang rod bolts and many other parts. but most of of the users of y blocks do not see the stress that a supper charged dragster does. most readers doing there engines for classic cars need help with comen centse restoration regarding there engine rebuilds.wher and when the engines are used is important especially simple things like heat riser valves,re use of rocker armes and pushrods. the ford ys are tough , but have some issues that can be over come with the info on this site and a look in the mirror asking your self what will i be using this car for. i do look up to the group taking big power out of the ys. but for the average user not well spent dollars
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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Avoiding catastrophic failure is not the only reason for replacing rod bolts. I have disassembled my share of Y Blocks. Most of these engines have been rebuilt numerous times. Many are a "parts soup" of mismatched rods and pistons, welded cranks, used lifters and whatever happened to be hanging around at the time. Try buying a ridge reamer these days. The last time I did, the kid behind the counter at the local parts store thought I was talking about 4 wheel drive. My bet is your pistons were driven out with a breaker bar, I would also bet the rod bolt threads are a mess and the rod nuts don't tighten uniformly. You can rebuild an engine by honing the cylinders with sand paper. I've done it myself. If you want an engine that performs and lasts, do the job right.
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By 2721955meteor - 4 Years Ago
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even a below average engine rebuilder would discard any rod bolts with damaged threads. as for rebuilt cores hear in bc canada rebuilders would never weld case iron cranks. ,they would resize all conrods,and only reuse hardware incuding rod bolts that are in very good cond. the main reason no crank welding is the y block ford engine was used excusivly in industrial aps. when you state you used sand paper to refurbish cylenerr walls, ridge reamer to take out ridge is probably the result of young hot orders cutting corners to re use junk.
rebuilders and machine shops hear would never turn our components or complete short blocks or long blocks relative with what one gets from your remarks. we in western canada and wa state used these engines industrial as well as restorers. any one that reads this site would get good info from the hp group and those who just want a nice 55/57 bird that runs well and is dependable,or hotrods your 292 or 312,later being way more pricey.pick your spot hear to follow in-between increases cost and risk
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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I have nothing against saving money. Not every engine needs billet rods and custom pistons. Cutting corners on critical components makes you feel good...for awhile. That good feeling goes away when your engine spins a bearing or dumps oil out the rear seal. These engines are ancient. Most of them need serious machining. Many of them have mismatched parts. I have close to $5,000 in the rebuild of my near stock TBird engine. I made this investment so I don't have to worry the next time I decide to make a little power. Can you build an engine on the cheap? Sure. You will make it to the car show most of the time. That is not what I want. I want an engine that will pull like a YBlock should and stay together longer than it's next AAA ride.
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