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By Bobwanna - 5 Years Ago
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I apologize for straying from the Y block but I have a question regarding the FE water pump and bypass system. I have read past posts here that some of you place a restrictor in the Y-block bypass hose. I recall it is 3/16". This modification reduces the heated water that just goes back into the block and bypasses being cooled by the radiator. This makes sense to me. OK, on to my FE. I will need to replace the water pump in my 67 F250 with a 352. Since the bypass system is so similar to the Y I was thinking to do the same modification. With pump removed now would be the perfect time. I was wondering if any of you have done this or do you think it is a good or bad idea Thank you - Bob
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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I tried it and then pulled it out. Didn't find it did much. If You want to see improvement in Cooling ability 3 things work. Aluminum Rad which are now cheaper than ever on Ebay because of Competition. Multi blade Fan moves more air or electric add on Pusher Fan.if u keep your existing Fan. Hi Flow Thermostat. I did all three on mine and Temp Gauge never goes more than a little past halfway. Even Idling. I used a 6 Blade conventional Fan Blade with no Add on.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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This modification reduces the heated water that just goes back into the block and bypasses being cooled by the radiator.
The purpose of the By-Pass feature is to have continuous coolant flow even with the thermostat completely closed. It is a safety feature.
The only reason I can think of modifying the flow rate is you have an engine that over-cools,
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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I feel its a fix if you are having problems. I was with a Y and had to do everything including a smaller water pump pulley to fix it. I also put on a fan shroud which did help but not enough. The pulley was the biggest factor especially at idle. Many disagree but these engines never heated up in the 50-60's when new (and we had them) so to me it's caused by the gasoline of today especially the "summer blend" SoCal gets. I use a 1/8" hole in the plug. Good Luck
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By Bobwanna - 5 Years Ago
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Olcarmark, Thanks for the input on the restrictor. Was that on you Fairlane or an FE application? I raised the question because my water pump is leaking and I had been running my system with cap on loose because the radiator was leaking. I have a new 3 row champion aluminum radiator and water pump going in. Along with new hoses, belts, high flow thermostat and heater control valve. Doing some much needed maintenance. After this I will assess a different fan. Although my radiator was leaking it did seem to cool just fine for my use of the truck at this time. I am thinking to add AC in the future so just want to have the basics done
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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I wouldn't change anything until I know how it does with everything working as originally intended first.
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By Bobwanna - 5 Years Ago
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KUL, I was curious on why the bypass was 5/8. I guess to allow decent flow with a stuck thermostat.
DLR, My F250 does not overheat but it is rarely loaded. I want to get it prepared for AC and the ability to tow a car trailer on occasion.
I am with you on the original 55/56 Ford cooling. Back in the 70's I had driven my 56 292 Club Sedan across country twice in the summer, all over SoCal and the Sierras and never had an overheating issue. I did install what was called a desert cooler 4 row radiator and car was otherwise stock
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By Bobwanna - 5 Years Ago
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Charlie, I am thinking maybe put it together as factory built since it does not over heat even with my old leaking and corroded radiator.
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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Bobwanna (8/17/2019)
Olcarmark, Thanks for the input on the restrictor. Was that on you Fairlane or an FE application? I raised the question because my water pump is leaking and I had been running my system with cap on loose because the radiator was leaking. I have a new 3 row champion aluminum radiator and water pump going in. Along with new hoses, belts, high flow thermostat and heater control valve. Doing some much needed maintenance. After this I will assess a different fan. Although my radiator was leaking it did seem to cool just fine for my use of the truck at this time. I am thinking to add AC in the future so just want to have the basics done
That was on my Y block. As far as Bypass Restrictor: If the Engineers at Ford thought a smaller Bypass would help Cooling they could have easily put it into Production. I have a Thermostat Housing from a '54 that has a 1/2" Bypass Tube instead of the "55+ which was 5/8". Why was it increased in Size after 1954? Wonder why?
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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KUL, I was curious on why the bypass was 5/8. I guess to allow decent flow with a stuck thermostat.
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I guess Engineering figured the needed size. The FE is also 5/8".
It is not there to allow for a stuck closed thermostat but allows flow when the thermostat is closed. Would be a lot of pressure and coolant cavitation beating on the thermostat without it.
As for the 54 239CI, I would assume the smaller by-pass did not allow enough flow or the CLV designed engines required more flow.
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By pintoplumber - 5 Years Ago
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The 54 239 also had a smaller water pump.
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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Just hit Delete for the extra Post. So if Restricting the Bypass is a good Idea Why did Ford INCREASE the Size of the Bypass for 1955?
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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Since '55 and up pumps are bigger, maybe they flow more and the larger bypass allows for approximately the same percentage of bypassed coolant as the smaller pump with the smaller bypass.
Another possibility is that in manufacturing, compromises have to be made to accommodate a wider range of conditions. Using the cooling system as an example, that might mean that it works more or less ok in most conditions but that doesn't mean it's ideal for all. So there may be circumstances where the end user finds it necessary to alter some aspect of the system to tailor it better to the exact environment they are in. This seems to be the case with restricting the bypass, which seems to have fixed a problem for several members here.
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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I tried the bypass in my Tbird. Besides the restrictor, you have to modify the thermostat by drilling holes around it. Just using a restrictor made the initial warm up go right to very hot (gauge was pegged) and I was very uncomfortable with that even though the temp came down to normal very soon. I removed the restrictor (I did not want to drill the holes in the thermostat).
Bobwanna (8/17/2019)
I apologize for straying from the Y block but I have a question regarding the FE water pump and bypass system. I have read past posts here that some of you place a restrictor in the Y-block bypass hose. I recall it is 3/16". This modification reduces the heated water that just goes back into the block and bypasses being cooled by the radiator. This makes sense to me. OK, on to my FE. I will need to replace the water pump in my 67 F250 with a 352. Since the bypass system is so similar to the Y I was thinking to do the same modification. With pump removed now would be the perfect time. I was wondering if any of you have done this or do you think it is a good or bad idea Thank you - Bob
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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So there may be circumstances where the end user finds it necessary to alter some aspect of the system to tailor it better to the exact environment they are in. This seems to be the case with restricting the bypass, which seems to have fixed a problem for several members here.
I wish someone would explain to me how restricting by-pass flow will help overheating unless the pump is turning too fast or using an aftermarket Hi-Flow pump..
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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Search for posts by greenbird56 on the subject.
The idea is to direct more coolant through the radiator to be cooled, instead of allowing it to recirculate through the engine and absorb more heat.
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By Bobwanna - 5 Years Ago
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Guys, I am sure glad I posted my question on the restrictor here. Paul, I had forgotten about having to drill holes in the thermostat. Since I do not know how to search the archives I was going from memory - not a good idea for me.
Anyways since I was not having cooling issues I will replace the leaking pump, leaking radiator and hoses and keep it as built from the factory. The only difference will be the Champion aluminum radiator. Thanks again to all
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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If it uses the same Diameter Stat as Y Block there is a very reasonably Priced High Flo Stat from napa. The opening is bigger than regular stats. I think Paul has one in His and I used One in mine.Anything U can do to increase Flow after it opens helps cooling. I have an Aluminum Rad in mine and not wanting it to stick out like a sore Thumb I painted it Black with Bar-B-Q Paint. I used some medium Sandpaper to give the Tanks some Teeth and then I used Vinegar to etch the Aluminum Tanks and it worked Well. Not much U can do with the Fins as far as Prep. Just Paint as is.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Search for posts by greenbird56 on the subject
My browser and this style webpage don't get along well..
The idea is to direct more coolant through the radiator to be cooled, instead of allowing it to recirculate through the engine and absorb more heat.
Sorry, I don't see the benefit of approaching overheating in that fashion. Read Paul's response.
He has a BIRD doesn't he (greenbird56)? That is an entirely different cooing system problem, factory designed.
For a PASS CAR or LT, a HI-FLO THERMOSTAT will perform better (IMO).
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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It is a bird but if I'm remembering right, a part of the changes was removing the water pump spacer, then spacing the pulley to keep the belt in line, which then makes it like every other Y and potentially applicable to all, which is why some others have benefited from it.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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The 54 239 also had a smaller water pump.
Dennis in Lititz PA
Another good point. Also smaller coolant passages in the heads/intake.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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It is a bird but if I'm remembering right, a part of the changes was removing the water pump spacer, then spacing the pulley to keep the belt in line, which then makes it like every other Y and potentially applicable to all, which is why some others have benefited from it.
Correct. But the problem is (IMO) that removing the spacer and spacing the fan/pulley out an additional 1" (with possible additional weight of an extra blade fan) would put an undue stress on the WP bearing. FORD didn't think the problem out very well when moving the BIRD engine back so far for fitment.
There is the re-designed spacer and FLOW-KOOL offers an improved WP impeller which will enable one to retain OEM appearance and correct numbers and proper cooling.
You have to remember I am extremely CDO (correct alphabetical order of OCD)
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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You can't keep moving the goal post.
Sure, repositioning the pulley will change the load on the bearings but here again, it's a mod that's been done many times, probably more than the restriction and water pumps aren't failing.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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How is any goal post being moved?
Trying to have a simple conversation. Guess not ...
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By Bobwanna - 5 Years Ago
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If it uses the same Diameter Stat as Y Block there is a very reasonably Priced High Flo Stat from napa. The opening is bigger than regular stats.
As an FYI, the FE and Y-block use the same thermostat and I do have the numbers for the high flow version. Mark, thanks for the tip on using vinegar to prep the alum. Tank is way too shiny for my work truck.
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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For TBirds, CASCO has a water pump with longer vanes to help coolant flow.
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By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
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MAIN REASON FOR BYPASS IS 1 STOP WATER PUMP CAVITATION 2 KEEP WATER FLOWING IN ENGINE WITH STAT CLOSED
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By GREENBIRD56 - 5 Years Ago
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Bypass restriction works fine on my outfit - for desert use here in the southwest. A lot of water flows through the 5/8 line right past the radiator and recycles. Too much when the water is hot and engine speed is low. I did a test by replacing the short bypass hose with an old chunk of 5/8 garden hose - plugged the water pump port. Ran the engine at idle speed - thermostat closed - observed the amount of bypass water produced as it squirted into the open radiator cap from the open 5/8 line. This flow is just from water pressure - so actually, more water would be transferred if there was also a suction applied such as at the water pump port. Made me a believer in what I had heard about the lost cooling capacity when the thermostat is open - seeing is believing.
So my outfit now has a thermostat with drilled bypass holes - and a 3/16 orifice installed in the short bypass hose. Water flows right away on start-up - but recycle is way reduced from the stock set-up. Why recycle water when the engine is hot?
The best change I made was to fit the engine with a smaller water pump pulley - and therefor increase the pumping capacity at idle. If you open the radiator cap of your outfit with the engine warmed up, at idle - thermostat open - you can see whether or not water is moving in the upper radiator tank. I had a Merc with a 289 and water absolutely gushed at hot idle - the 312 barely sloshed when I started trying to trouble shoot the cooling system. My bird still has the original 2/3 size radiator (completely rebuilt and rodded out) - and when I started, the original 3 blade fan. It now has a fan clutch and an aluminum 7 blade fan sized to fit the factory shroud.
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By pegleg - 5 Years Ago
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Steve,
Was beginning to wonder if you were still around, and sane !
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By GREENBIRD56 - 5 Years Ago
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Hi Frank! I got a "retirement" job as a supervisor in a machine shop - and its been a bit more than I really wanted!!!!!!!!!!! Not too much time in my own garage.
So now that I've nearly reached the big "70", I figure its about time to get with the program and finish a few projects I set on the shelf.
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