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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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My 1955 Thunderbird has been converted to 12 Volts. I installed a new 1957 12 volt battery tray and HD battery in the car last summer. Batteries to fit this car are hard to find. I bought a new battery from the local auto parts store. The TBird takes a Group 29NF battery. I wasn't able to find a maintenance free 29NF battery.
Because I upgraded my brakes to a dual master cylinder, I was not able to use the battery shield. Everything worked fine until this summer. I noticed the battery water level was low, so I filled it. Evidentially, I filled it too much as battery acid came out and into the tray. This made a big mess with white battery powder all over the frame below the tray. I cleaned up the mess and painted the affected areas. I ordered a new tray with the shield still attached.
I don't know if the missing heat shield caused my battery to boil over or if overfilling it caused the problem. I will try to make the heat shield work. It may take some fabrication. Anyone ever have this problem?
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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The 55/57 BIRD has to have the BAT heat shield, the main reason being the high under-hood temperature(s) and the fact of the design of the FYB exhaust manifold and it's proximity to the BAT.
Causes of BAT electrolyte spillage and evaporation-
1) Excessive under-hood heat
2) Too close to exhaust (excessive heat)
3) Over charging
4) Over filling
5) Cracked case (from excess heat/over filling)
6) Sulfated BAT
BAT TERM corrosion (vented BAT) is caused by electrolyte vapors from heat.
Do you have a booster install @ the MC?
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By miker - 5 Years Ago
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Couple thoughts. Unless the battery was really low, I was taught to check the water after charging. Cold, only cover the plates, not up to the split rim. This was deep cycles on boats, fork lifts, and golf carts. I always assumed (there’s that word) it applies to all batteries.
One way or another, you need to get the heat shield in there. Birds are a problem, and worse with stock manifolds. Even close, just short of touching the battery, it will help.
I solved it by using a small Odyssey battery and hiding it under a cover. I’ve seen some “original” batteries that were just boxes, with a small AGM like the Odyssey hid inside and wired to the exposed terminals.
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By dbird - 5 Years Ago
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My solution was moving the battery to the trunk, It doesn't take that much room, even in the 55 trunk. The best thing I did was to change to an Optima battery, really holds a charge when I don't drive it for a month or two, and no gasses in the trunk.
Don
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (8/13/2019)
My 1955 Thunderbird has been converted to 12 Volts. I installed a new 1957 12 volt battery tray and HD battery in the car last summer. Batteries to fit this car are hard to find. I bought a new battery from the local auto parts store. The TBird takes a Group 29NF battery. I wasn't able to find a maintenance free 29NF battery. Because I upgraded my brakes to a dual master cylinder, I was not able to use the battery shield. Everything worked fine until this summer. I noticed the battery water level was low, so I filled it. Evidentially, I filled it too much as battery acid came out and into the tray. This made a big mess with white battery powder all over the frame below the tray. I cleaned up the mess and painted the affected areas. I ordered a new tray with the shield still attached. I don't know if the missing heat shield caused my battery to boil over or if overfilling it caused the problem. I will try to make the heat shield work. It may take some fabrication. Anyone ever have this problem?
Interstate sells a regular 29NF Battery. Not sure about MF. If U are using a Battery which U can top up is it MF? Napa sells a Commercial low Maintenance 29NF
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I ordered a new battery tray and shield. I am using hard brake lines to a 1967 Mustang dual master cylinder in my car. I had to make the bends in the lines to the master cylinder tight to clear the battery. The brakes work fine, but there was not enough room for the shield. I will work with the new tray and shield to make it work some how.
Everything was OK until I filled the battery. The plates were dry, so I added water to the top of the hole. I am sure I overfilled the battery. From now on I will add just enough water to cover the plates. We'll see what happens.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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Phil, I don't know how the heat shield is formed or secured in place but could it be slotted to allow installing over the tubes? Or? Just my 2 cents - I know you'll figure out a plan, good luck, JEFF.....
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I'm thinking the same thing. The shield is held in place by two angle brackets mounted below the battery tray. I believe I can slot the shield to make room for the brake lines. I may have to relocate one of the brackets. I will post a photo when I have it figured out.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Did you notice the banjo fittings on the install I showed?
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Yes I did. Where did you buy the banjo fittings and stainless lines? Part numbers?
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Oh gee ...
Many sources. AEROQUIP. Try EARL'S PLUMBING.
See what you think - http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=94/home_id=94/mode=cat/cat94.htm
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Thanks for the info. Did you notice any difference in brake pedal firmness with the braided lines?
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Did you notice any difference in brake pedal firmness with the braided lines?
IMO ...  ... The difference in feel will not be realized depending on final line pressure (whether boosted or not). The reasoning for the hoses @ the MC (in this instance) is most likely appearance and flexibility between the MC and hard lines on the chassis.
Where the use will be felt is the actual brake hoses connecting frame to calipers/rear axle, again depending on final line pressure. Remember, in instances such as yours, line pressure is greatly increased whether boosted or not. Old tech hoses will expand somewhat.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I was successful in fitting the new 1957 battery tray and heat shield in my car. I will post photos when I have everything painted and done. I had to relocate the rear shield brace about 1" to the front and drill holes in the shield for the brakes lines. It looks factory. Tough to paint now. It's been raining in Florida for weeks.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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All done. Hopefully, no more battery boil overs.  
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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Also check Earl's. They have all kinds of fittings, including banjo's. Speedway and Summitt carry them.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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Nice job, looks excellent. I must say, I like the choice of master cylinders seen on this thread.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Absolutely Beautiful Detail Work!
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I did not realize the battery temp difference with the shield installed. It's definitely required in these old TBirds.
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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You might want to consider a heat shield under the master. CASCO sells a longer one for the dual master.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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...heat shield under the master. CASCO sells a longer one for the dual master
... hmmph ...
Good thing to know ...
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