NAPA Hi Flow 170 Degree Thermostat


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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
Quite awhile ago there was a topic regarding Hi Flow Thermostats. One that was mentioned was a Hi Flow 170 Degree Stat from Napa. I got One and it works great. I don't remember the Napa #. Does anyone know the # I am looking for? Something like THM 7 maybe? Thanks I found it. THM 6
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Don't know the NAPA number.  I bought mine locally from NPD.  It's their part number T-8575-3 $19.60.  It's probably available cheaper elsewhere.
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
I found the Napa # THM6. I have One in mine and it works well. Never could get the Robertshaw Ones to work for some reason. Tried 3 and gave up and bought the Napa One. Friend wants One.
By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
Yep - THM-6
By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
Ordered from NPD yesterday along with gaskets. Guess I'll finally have the right one this time.
By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
Hey all, I installed the 170* from NPT today any all went very well. Along with the old high-flow 160* Mopar unit it always stuck closed after first startup; it always did open but not until approx 190* and then shot down to what I determined to be 160*. Bugged me but I let it go these last few years. The new one worked in a sauce pan on the stove at 170* and when doing the first test in the car showed water movement with a cardboard in front of the radiator and 169* at the neck of the bypass hose into the top of the water pump. I do have a 1/8" hole in a plug. The new reading on the factory gauge is now about 2 needles with higher than before and where our 56 always ran as I remember in the early 60's.

There is a note in the thermostat box that says you need 1-1/2" between the front of the manifold to heater line and with the dual quad Edelbrock manifold and the deluxe heater vacuum actuated valve there was only 1/2". To make it clear the thermostat only needed to be clocked vertical on it's interior structure as not to interfere with the valve; so all was good.

Next project is to get the speedometer reading correctly after the install of the new Explorer 8.8 with 2.73 gears. The smallest nylon gear i can find is a 19 tooth and 17 is whats needed or maybe even less. I'm working with Rusty @ Speedmeter Service in Colorado (HAMB) and Steve at Texas Electrical Instruments with an adapter to keep it all mechanical and it all looks good and will keep the cost a lot lower that a GPS conversion or GPS to mechanical with these older transmissions..I hate jacking up the car a foot and crawling under but what's a guy to do....







By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
DryLakesRacer (5/1/2019)
Ordered from NPD yesterday along with gaskets. Guess I'll finally have the right one this time.

I tried 3 of the Robertshaw Type and never could get them to work properly. I have used the Napa Hi Flow all last Summer and found it worked really well. Consistent
Temperature with very little Temperature movement up or down.
By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
I know there are different ones and designs but  i really don't remember one from another. I know the "bellows" type would never have fit with the room I had in the manifold. The one I took out was for a Mopar and hi-flow which I was sure I needed back when I was have heating up problems. It may have been marketed thru Mr. Gasket. It had approximately a 1/2"  "cup" with 3 oval holes in the bottom and a large opening into the hose housing. The one I received from NPS was in a Casco box and it is the open spring type  with a large opening like the first hi-flow and is listed in the NPS catalog as a hi-flow.. 
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
DryLakesRacer (5/9/2019)
I know there are different ones and designs but  i really don't remember one from another. I know the "bellows" type would never have fit with the room I had in the manifold. The one I took out was for a Mopar and hi-flow which I was sure I needed back when I was have heating up problems. It may have been marketed thru Mr. Gasket. It had approximately a 1/2"  "cup" with 3 oval holes in the bottom and a large opening into the hose housing. The one I received from NPS was in a Casco box and it is the open spring type  with a large opening like the first hi-flow and is listed in the NPS catalog as a hi-flow.. 

Sounds like the One sold by Napa. Bigger opening than Standard Stats.
By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
As far as the speedo gear, what trans are you using?  If you are using a 57 or later with the redesigned gear, look for a gear on ebay.  If it's an earlier trans, your options are a lot more limited.
By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
Thanks Paul but my trans is kinda from the land of misfits. A very reputable shop near me had a 1962 Thunderbird Cruise-O-Matic left for rebuilt by a guy I actually knew and was friends with. The shop suggested I replace my Ford-O with it and a deal was done. At the end the speedo became a problem no one remembered that the Ford-O went at the bottom on the tail housing and the Cruise-O at the top making it run backwards. Since they knew the tail housings were essentially the same; they it machined it for the larger yoke bushing and seal; no harm no fowl. A year and 1/2 later I replaced the rear end wanting a higher gear ratio, the speedo ran too slow for the nylon gears available, and the cable that the "bulb" crimped on the end. Driving at 50 on the speedo was actually 64. 

Here's where Texas Electrical Instruments comes in because they have countless adapters including the one which I purchased to not need a crimped "bulb" end,  but a 7/8" 18 standard speedo cable like newer Fords.. The cable and adapter are way less $$'s than looking to a GPS to cable conversion by Speed-Hut which was an option I was looking at doing. A new cable with correct ends is relatively inexpensive and a Speed O correction device/gearbox was supplied by the trans shop.   

Texas Electrical Instruments has a lot of connectors and supplies cars guys can use and I learned about the by talking to Rusty Speedometer Repair in Fountain Colorado. They both have websites.