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By MattsY - 5 Years Ago
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Good morning all! I've chosen a machine shop to do the work in my Y and in my "poking" around I came across the mod to get full oil pressure at the rockers and the .060" hole in front behind the cam plate for the timing chain. I was planning on dropping off the block, crank, etc to the shop on Monday, but before I do, I'm looking for opinions on these mods....worth it? Necessary? Also, with the hole drilled behind the cam plate is it necessary to fab up the little sheet metal thingy? Thank you all for your thoughts and time!
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By Lord Gaga - 5 Years Ago
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Don't forget about lubricating the distributor gear.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I am far from being a professional engine builder, but I have built a number of engines in my day. I recommend buying a copy of the book of "The Ford Y-Block Origin-Maintenace-Rebuild" by James Eickman. I am sure it's available. It's an old book, but very useful.
The area around the thrust plate needs your attention. I have always cut slits in the back of the plate as the book shows. Do a test assembly and make sure you have enough cam end play. These engines are old. Many of them have mismatched parts. My current engine was a total Frankenstein. You don't want to go to all that expense and trouble and find out you have a problem like that.
There are a number of ways to improve oil flow to the rockers. My engine has a new Isky cam. I put my cam in a lathe and cut the center grove to .030" deep. I almost have too much oil. In my case, I left the rocker tubes as they were and I have as much oil as you will ever need. Closing the tubes and pressurizing the rockers is another method. I have built engines in the past using this method as well.
Choosing a machine shop these days is tricky. Most of the younger guys have never seen a Y-Block. Find an old guy that learned from personal experience. Check everything twice. Most of these engines need to be align honed and decked. After all those years the blocks are warped and the caps are sloppy.
You will receive a lot more information on this forum. It's a great resource. Buy the book and you will have a great start.
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By darrell - 5 Years Ago
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for a street engine i wouldnt bother.it is important to cut the groove deeper in the cam.i go to about.030
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By MattsY - 5 Years Ago
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Awesome info, thanks guys! This is definitely just a street cruiser, so maybe I'll forego the mods with the exception of the cam groove. As far as the machine shop choice, I'm using Lawrence Racing Engines out of Westhampton Beach N.Y. He came recommended by a local y-block guy. When I spoke to him, he, right off the top of his head, knew bores, strokes, main sizes etc, so hopefully that's a good sign!
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By MattsY - 5 Years Ago
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Oh, and I will definitely check out that book. I have the y-block book by Charles Morris already.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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The copy I have is old and dogeared. I'm pretty sure I have had my book since the 70s. There is a newer version available on Amazon.
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By kevink1955 - 5 Years Ago
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Just do not use the Eckman book to install the timing chain, it's wrong unless later edtions have been corrected. Use the ford shop manual
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By darrell - 5 Years Ago
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talking about mistakes check out page 110 top left of charles morris book
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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When I installed my rear seal, I used Ted's method and I have no leaks. The package that the seal came in was wrong.
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (4/13/2019)
I am far from being a professional engine builder, but I have built a number of engines in my day. I recommend buying a copy of the book of "The Ford Y-Block Origin-Maintenace-Rebuild" by James Eickman. I am sure it's available. It's an old book, but very useful. The area around the thrust plate needs your attention. I have always cut slits in the back of the plate as the book shows. Do a test assembly and make sure you have enough cam end play. These engines are old. Many of them have mismatched parts. My current engine was a total Frankenstein. You don't want to go to all that expense and trouble and find out you have a problem like that. There are a number of ways to improve oil flow to the rockers. My engine has a new Isky cam. I put my cam in a lathe and cut the center grove to .030" deep. I almost have too much oil. In my case, I left the rocker tubes as they were and I have as much oil as you will ever need. Closing the tubes and pressurizing the rockers is another method. I have built engines in the past using this method as well. Choosing a machine shop these days is tricky. Most of the younger guys have never seen a Y-Block. Find an old guy that learned from personal experience. Check everything twice. Most of these engines need to be align honed and decked. After all those years the blocks are warped and the caps are sloppy. You will receive a lot more information on this forum. It's a great resource. Buy the book and you will have a great start.
If You find there is excessive Oil Flow after cutting the Groove in the Cam You can always tap the Oil Feed in the Tower and install a Small Pipe Plug. Then drill a Hole in the Plug to allow Oil Flow. I had to do Mine when I built my Engine 10 Years ago.I don't recall the Size of the Hole but the Post is somewhere in the Archives of this Site.Much easier to control the oil Flow after the Engine is built than to try and Increase the Flow after the Fact.
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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MattsY (4/13/2019)
Oh, and I will definitely check out that book. I have the y-block book by Charles Morris already.
If You want some other Ideas about Modifications including pressurized Rockers and the Hole to lubricate Timing Chain check out Tim McMaster's Site at YBlockGuy.com. When I replaced the Rear Main Seal on my 292 this Winter (Engine out of Car) i tried using "The Right Stuff" in place of the Side Seals which apparently cause as many Leaks as the Seal itself. Others have reported good Results using this instead of Side Seals. So far no Leaks but driving it this Summer will tell the Tale. Just another "Mod" to think about.
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By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
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i converted a 57ranchero to full pressure rockers,at the same time install valve seals from early 289 after triming the lower umbrella 1//8 to eliminate touching gueds. ran the 292 for 4 years no smoke no oil consumption. lots of oil to valley via push rods and drain holes exhaust sid of both heads.
replaced the ranchero with 49 merc with 292, same full lube to rockers groved cam enlarged,same valve seals lots of oil to the to topend.but can check valve clearance engine running, no over flow.no smoke no oil consumption over normal.
have converted 2 other ys no issues. do know of oil consumption andheavey carbon on intakes due to nurled guides with stock typ umbrella season pair of heads i purchased from a friend who was a bit kairless with the truth for removing them
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By emtdude56 - 5 Years Ago
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what is teds method thanks
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (4/13/2019)
When I installed my rear seal, I used Ted's method and I have no leaks. The package that the seal came in was wrong.
Phil is likely referring to my Y-Block Magazine article which is also on my website. This method uses the side seals.
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2008/09/10/neoprene-rear-seal-installation-for-the-y-and-others/
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2009/06/28/warped-rear-seal-retainer-on-a-y/
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By darrell - 5 Years Ago
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another way they get warped is the early blocks have washers on the 4 front main bolts.they get mixed up and put washers on the back bolts and tighten the seal down and warp it. they remove the washers when they see what has happened but the damage is done.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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You can have rear oil seal problems if you have crankshaft problems or your main caps are worn. These engines have been around for a long time. Some have been rebuilt over and over again. Some have been rebuilt by shade tree mechanics or professionals who are not familiar with their idiosyncrasies. My motor had all these issues plus some. It was a real Frankenstein. I found a machine shop with years of Y-Block experience. They discovered my main caps were walking around and my block wasn't straight. Lots of machine work and balancing made everything right. I did have an oil leak. It turned out to be a bad oil pump. I replaced it and my garage floor is dry. I have had a number of Y-Blocks over the years. Mine is the first one I have seen that doesn't leak..... for now. 
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