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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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When I rebuilt my 292 engine last summer, I installed a new oil pump from Precision Oil Pumps. This oil pump was supposed to be blueprinted. My engine has always had a small oil leak. Recently it has gotten a lot worse. I thought for a long time it was the rear seal. I jacked up the car today and the bolts that hold the plate on the bottom of the oil pump were safety wired. Two of them were loose. I tightened all four bolts on the pump and it still leaks about a drop a minute. Should I remove the plate and use sealer or buy a new pump?
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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There's supposed to be a Gasket between Cover and Body. I wouldn't use Sealer if it was Me. The Cover may not be Flat which You can check by running it over Sandpaper on a Flat Surface in a Figure 8. See there are any low Spots.
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By darrell - 5 Years Ago
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there are 2 pumps the castiron one takes a gasket while the alum,one takes a rubber seal.dont use sealant in case it gets sucked into the pump.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Right now it's about a drop a minute with the engine running. Not too bad for a YBlock. I'm relieved to find the rear seal isn't the problem. If it gets any worse, I'll probably replace the pump. Thanks!
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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Make sure it's not trickling down form a higher place, like the valve cover.
If there is a problem with the pump, I'd expect precision oil pumps to handle it. A premium, brand new, blue printed and safety wired pump should not leak or have loose bolts.
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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Contact Precision and tell them what you found. See what they say about repairing/replacing it.
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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Finding any oil pump cover bolts loose and especially if they had been safety wired suggests a problem during the original pump assembly. Being on the engine awhile may complicate a warranty return but regardless, the vendor should be informed and there’s a chance they will want to see the pump and make it good. If you’ve broken the safety wire to tighten the bolts, you’ll have to let them know this as that too could complicate a warranty return.
As already mentioned and assuming your oil pump is a spur gear design, it will have a thin gasket between the pump body and the cover. Once that gasket failed, it’s unlikely that simply tightening the cover plate will stop the leak until the gasket itself is replaced. If the pump cover has been over-tightened, then the possibility exists that the oil pump body may be distorted at the threaded holes at the gasket surface. The gasket is thin and it wouldn’t take much distortion to create an oil leak. If that’s the case, then disassembly of the pump and running a knife sharpening stone over both the body gasket surface and the cover may help in removing any irregularities that exist. A flat surface with wet/dry sandpaper can also accomplish the same thing. Be sure the rotors turn freely after retightening the cover to the pump body.
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By 55 GLASS TOP - 5 Years Ago
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What is a blue printed oil pump?, thanks for any reply
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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Go to their Website. Interesting Reading. I would hope Phil's Pump is a One off poor Assembly and not an Example of their normal Product. .
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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55 GLASS TOP (3/25/2019)
What is a blue printed oil pump?, thanks for any reply
Here’s the information for the ‘blueprinted’ pumps from the Precision Oil Pumps site.
Product Description
Blueprinted Melling Ford 292-312 Oil Pump. Fits all 292-312 Ford Engines.
MELLING BLUEPRINTED OIL PUMP. The pump is a brand new Melling M-42 Pump Blueprinted by PRECISION OIL PUMPS. Fits all Ford 292 -312 engines. Each pump is disassembled in groups of ten, casting flash is removed from all passages, passages are radiused and blended by hand. The Housings & Gears are then Deburred by a vibratory polisher then cleaned. The Gears are then sprayed with TECH-LINE moly-coating and oven curred. Three Critical Clearances are checked on reassembly;(1) Gear to Housing, (2) Mesh or Backlash, (3) Gear to Cover-Plate. With Ten gear sets to choose from , One pair with correct clearances will be installed. The relief- valve is De-burred with emmory cloth ,cleaned and is re-installed with the existing spring and new hardware. Each cover plate is also Vibratory Polished, cleaned and fastened with safety-wired aircraft bolts. All pumps are bench tested. Buy with confidence.
http://stores.precisionoilpumps.com/blueprinted-melling-ford-292-312-oil-pump/
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I emailed them through their website and explained the problem. So far no response. I assumed a "blue printed" oil pump was superior to one out of the box. Perhaps not?
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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It definitely should be. It may just be their one in a thousand that is not. We'll see how they handle it.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I called Precision Oil Pumps today and they are sending me a new oil pump bottom plate gasket. I was told not to over tightened the bolts as this distorts the plate. He told me not to use silicone sealer. I have some old school Permatex that should do the job.
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By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
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I wouldn't use any type of gasket sealer.. It could migrate into the pump and possibly the relief valve. But thats just me.
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (3/26/2019)
It definitely should be. It may just be their one in a thousand that is not. We'll see how they handle it.
Before You put it together I would check both the Cover and the Housing with a Straight Edge and make sure they are both Flat and Straight..
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Noted. Thanks. Right now the leak is very small. When the new gasket comes I'll take a closer look.
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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Ditto
57RancheroJim (3/26/2019)
I wouldn't use any type of gasket sealer.. It could migrate into the pump and possibly the relief valve. But thats just me.
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By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
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oil leak at oil pump. i have chased this rear seal ,valley cover oil pump leak situation,especially my 292 in 49 mere truck.
i now am surer that the issue is the rear of the oil pan. with a drip oil leak out of rear of pan is blown onto the oil pump,makeing 1 think it is the issue.after laying a oil pan on a bare block with rear seal holder in place it becomes obvious that henry screwed up big time on such a easy improvement could have eliminated the ability to mark her spot. the rear seal bracket hangs out from the gasket aria to a point the pan gasket is only hang on by a small margin.. the seal retaining bolts are visible. i am in the process of extending the pan contact at rear,also making plastic covers to go over the bolt heads the gasket has a decent contact,as well as a plate that goes over the bolt holes and presses more support to that aria of the pan to block. actually the studs and nuts attached to seal bracket at not much good as they squeeze the gasket at a era that has poor contact. i have suspected valley cover leaks oil pump leaks, rear seal in my case it is the oil panther leaks at the rear,more so with truck and third rear sump pans
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Y Blocks are prone to leaks. They leaked oil 60 years ago and they leak oil today. I'm convinced you could coat one of these engines in epoxy and it would still leak. That said, my bottom oil pump plate bolts were loose. My rear seal is OK for now, but I'm not getting cocky. If you want a car that doesn't leak oil, buy a Tesla. 
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By Cliff - 5 Years Ago
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I don't have any problems with oil leaks, I've built these engines for over 40 years, the real seal is the same setup as an FE Ford or Chrysler, it just comes down to good building practices, the real seal I use is a felpro for the little engines and the chrysler seal for the 312 (felpro), I never use felpro head gaskets (water stains down the sides of the block).
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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Our moderator, Ted, has a section on his Eaton Balancing link from here, on proper installation of rear engine seals. Re the Chrysler seal retro fit, that was as I understand it a stop gap method when 312 seals were unobtainium. That's not the case now, as Best Seals has two current seal methods for Y-Blocks including 312 " engines. Check it out. Following directions carefully is apparently the key..
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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I have had 100% good success with these modern split seals with the "nail" expanders. Been about 6 years since finishing my 64 292 block with modified 312 crank and all is still dry.
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By 55Vicky - 5 Years Ago
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Is there a website for Best Seals? I've hit a dead end on finding those rear main oil seals.
Alan
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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https://bestgasket.com/
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By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
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Cliff (3/30/2019)
I don't have any problems with oil leaks, I've built these engines for over 40 years, the real seal is the same setup as an FE Ford or Chrysler, it just comes down to good building practices, the real seal I use is a felpro for the little engines and the chrysler seal for the 312 (felpro), I never use felpro head gaskets (water stains down the sides of the block).
just a reminder fes are very different re the rear seal it is integral with the rear main cap,this makes for far better support for pan gasget. also the ys with the alum rear seal career,s at best a ropey solution as they are attached in such a marginal way poor support for the rear pan gasket.and most of the rear gasket is hanging in the breeze. the retailing bots are visible You are correct regarding the seal its self.
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