Tri-power Setup Questions


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic143892.aspx
Print Topic | Close Window

By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I recently purchased an Edelbrock 573 intake with three Holley 94s and linkage.  The carbs look good.  I am going to rebuild them so I know what I have.  I have been looking on the Internet and viewed all of Charlie Price's Vintage Speed videos.  Great information. This setup is going into a 1955 Thunderbird with a new .060 over 292 motor, G heads, 1957 distributor, Isky cam and manual O/D transmission. I have a number of questions.

There seems to be differing opinions on how to set this up.  Some people say I should remove the power valves and disable the idle circuit on the end carbs.  Others say I should run them as they are and use a synchronizer gauge to adjust them. Also, what is the correct procedure for adjusting multi carb setups?  Any input on jet or power valve sizes?   Thanks for your help!


By pintoplumber - 5 Years Ago
I have a smaller motor, 283”. My power valves are removed and plugged on the end carbs. Center one is 6.5 if I remember correctly. For jets, I’m running .53 in the center and .51 on the end carbs. There were .57 jets in all three carbs when I bought it at a swap meet. Too much for my motor.
By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
If you are not going to idle on all three carbs a Uni-Syn should not be necessary. If it were me I would remove the end carbs, cover with block offs and get the engine and car driving to your satisfaction on the center carb only. Then I would add the two out side one at a time with no linkage, run and drive. Then add fuel make sure no leaks, run and drive. Repeat with last carb. Then add the progressive linkage.
This would take while but each thing you do eliminates a problem. I personally like to idle on all carb 3-2's but GM didn't and I don't know about Mopar and Ford. Good luck and remember to "clean it out" once in a while.👍
By NoShortcuts - 5 Years Ago
DryLakesRacer.  My recollection on the '60's Ford factory 390 and 406 FE tri-power set-ups is that there were idle circuits on all three carburetors.  That included the triple set-ups on the M code '62 & '63 Thunderbirds.  Handsome eye candy with the mechanical throttle linkage, the thick cast aluminum oval air cleaner pieces (as-cast bottom piece with the top piece polished with raised fins down the center and the 'Bird emblem mounted toward the front edge) and the exposed filter element surround.  Smile
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Sounds like a plan. I found this setup on EBay.  It looks good in the photos, but I won't know what I've got until it arrives.  From the photos I can tell the center carb is a little different than the other two.  All the linkage is there and the carbs are suppose to have been rebuilt.  I made a very low bid and was the only bidder.  The seller had 100% feedback, so maybe I got lucky?
By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
Besides removing the power valve and the idle circuits, the 94 end carbs are supposed to have different throttle plates.  If you look at Charlie's site, you will find them.
By miker - 5 Years Ago
Paul, Charlie as in Vintage Speed?
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Charlie of Vintage Speed is great. I watched all his videos. He's here in Florida. Nice to have someone like that still around.

One more question please.  Where and how do I mount the coil?
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
I am interested to see a Picture of the Setup You purchased. I can't find it on the "Solds" on Ebay. I been watching Charlie Prices Videos too. One more very knowledgeable Source that will be hard to replace when His Time comes. You are lucky to be within reasonable Distance of His Business if U need anything for your 3 x 2. 
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Here you go.  I don't have it yet.  I know nothing about it other than these pics. I will be using Charlie to tell me what it needs.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/91afd2c6-2bc2-4226-8d97-5359.jpg

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/849ca32d-ef92-4ee4-9c77-b57f.jpg

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/d9160a38-0c6a-4ad8-a8f0-50ae.jpg

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/431b8df1-27ee-4b34-a0dd-676e.jpg

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/26dfa5ee-8228-4ec7-ab63-a313.jpg


By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
Yes

miker (2/10/2019)
Paul, Charlie as in Vintage Speed?


By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I'm sure they will need some work.  I'll post what happens as I go along.  Right now, I just hoping my hood closes.  Rolleyes
By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
Clearance is tight in a bird.  Some have milled down the intake for a air cleaner to clear - I think the rear one.
By miker - 5 Years Ago
When I had the Offy manifold on the bird, I could have milled the rear pad for clearance. I took the cheap way out and ran the air cleaner element thru the bandsaw (at the bottom gasket and up enough for clearance) and just used silicone to glue it back together.

With the hood scoop trim removed, and just the back carb on, you can get a pretty good look. Then crumpled tin foil or play dough to measure the clearance. If the motor mounts and steady rests are good, a bird motor doesn’t move much.
By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
If the motor mounts and steady rests are good...


Key words here ...
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
My engine mounts and steady rests are new.  I replaced them when I rebuilt the motor last summer.  Charlie has a large selection of air cleaners on his website. I should be able to make something work. I have photos off the Internet showing these setups on small Tbirds. Here's one below.  I'm still trying to figure out where to mount the coil?   Everything is suppose to arrive this afternoon.  Happy Birthday to me...Wow

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/c4cc2475-8d62-476d-85ba-b1cb.jpg

By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I received the EBay tripower today.  Upon inspection, I found the end carbs to be Holley 94 Ford logo EBUs.  The center carb is a ECG-5. The end carbs were blocked off with metal plates meaning they were used as dummies.  The Edelbrock 573 manifold is usable with no cracks or excessive wear.  The carbs will definitely need some work. I will also need better linkage and air cleaners.

I called Charlie at Vintage Speed and he told me to check the hood clearance before I do anything more.  Without swapping manifolds I performed some preliminary measurements.  From what I can tell so far, low profile air cleaners should fit inside the TBird hood scoop.  The worse case would be to run screens in the carbs with no filter.  A number of low profile air cleaners are available.  Making my own is also an option. I would appreciate any help other TBird owners could give me on hood clearance.  I hate to swap manifolds just to measure, but I will if I have to.

After talking with Charlie, it looks like the best way to go is to buy one new primary throttle body and two new secondary throttle bodies.  He sells them as a complete kit.  This eliminates any problems with the bases.  He sells linkage and air cleaners as well. His company is in Vero Beach Florida, about 2 hours drive south of my home.  Follow along and we'll see how this goes from here.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/0ffdf4af-25d4-4da6-b8ed-3ade.jpg


By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
When I had the trips on my 54, I made an aluminum bracket to hold the stock 56 type coil bracket which I mounted on the studs that hold down the intake (passenger side).  Don't have the trips any more so cannot provide  picture

Florida_Phil (2/13/2019)
My engine mounts and steady rests are new.  I replaced them when I rebuilt the motor last summer.  Charlie has a large selection of air cleaners on his website. I should be able to make something work. I have photos off the Internet showing these setups on small Tbirds. Here's one below.  I'm still trying to figure out where to mount the coil?   Everything is suppose to arrive this afternoon.  Happy Birthday to me...Wow




By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
Good luck with Vintage Speed.  Buying parts is ok, but there are some who swear by him and others that swear at him.
By miker - 5 Years Ago
My experience with Charlie Price was almost 20 years ago. If he’s anywhere near as entertaining in person as he was on the phone, I’d gladly drive a couple hours to see him in person. With the manifold, carbs, etc. Living outside Seattle, it’s more than a couple hours.

When you’re looking at aircleaners, check Ted and Joe’s article on how some of the aircleaners really restricted the flow. I know your not after max hp, but no sense giving some away on the air cleaner.
By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
The center carb ECG has a SPARK CONTROL VALVE for a LOM DIST.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9caa1bd9-cbe8-4d2f-b7df-1ae8.jpg
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
The center carb is the bigger of the three with a 1 1/16 venture.  My distributor uses only centrifugal advance, so I will not be using the vacuum ports. A former owner installed a threaded iron heater hose fitting into the 573.  It's frozen.  I've been down this road before.  To keep from destroying a vintage manifold, I'll be working with my Dremel tool.  I will be disassembling the carbs to see what they need.  I'm sure I will be replacing all three bases.

I spoke with Charlie on the phone yesterday.  He is a busy guy and doesn't have a lot of  time to bench race.  He gave me good advice and answered my questions. He told me to make a list of what I need and call him back. I can tell he doesn't have time for cheap rebuilds.  I see this as a good thing.  I know I'm going to put money into this setup if I want it right.

As far as the hood clearance issue goes, I think the only way to be sure is to remove the hood scoop chrome trim and mount the tri carbs and manifold. I believe I can see the clearance through the hole.  I'm thinking about building a three hole aluminum base and using foam to seal it to the hood like 60s Ram Air.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Good news.  I was able to get the iron heater hose connector out of the manifold without screwing up the manifold. I disassembled the primary carb and it looks like someone put a kit in them recently.  As I suspected the throttle plate screws are buggered up and the shafts are worn.  The screws holding the top on the carb are from a hardware store and are too long.  The manifold is fine.  The linkage is junk.  My list for Charlie is growing.

The next step is to put a vacuum gauge on my engine to check the idle vacuum so I can install the right power valve.   I ordered an intake manifold gasket set.  Hood clearance check after that.
By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
The power valves from Holley are a poor fit for the early carbs (may not seal good).  I believe Charlie has power valves that are modified to fit the early carbs.  You might want to discuss this with him.
By miker - 5 Years Ago
Note what Paul said. The modern valves look almost identical and screw right in. And leak. I learned that working on that kind of tri power with 94’s the hard way.
By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
My distributor uses only centrifugal advance, so I will not be using the vacuum ports.


What type of DIST are you using?
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I saw the power valve problem on Charlie's videos.  Anyone who wants to mess with these carbs should view them.  I think there are five in all.  I found out yesterday that Charlie produces new Holley 94s. He has a number of options and finish choices.  I am thinking about driving down to see what he has next week. Might be better than messing with three 60 plus year old carbs?

My distributor is a stock 1957 Ford distributor with a Pertronics unit.  The centrifugal advance has been curved and I don't use vacuum advance.  My little 292 runs pretty good for what it is.  The TBird is a fairly light car and the O/D works.  I don't know the exact rear gear ratio, but it's pretty low.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/43528eac-e094-410a-a66a-2563.jpg
By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
DryLakesRacer Posted - http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic110355-2.aspx

As said, I made the bracket out of aluminum I believe .040" since I have it for my sons oval dirt car. I took a few photos and for the most part it is held on by the rear carb studs. The rear stud is also for the ballast resistor which I choose to run with the Pertronics ll. You can see it has 2 bends 90* each and cut about 1/2 off under the coil. If you look under where the high voltage wire goes in the coil you will see a screw with a nut. That is going into the stock supplied hole that was in the manifold for the coil to stand up. It is the brace to keep the coil mount steady.

Around the edges you see, I took a hammer and with my bench vice bent over the edge on all the sides but ones going up to the carb to make it stiffer. I also thought if it was a stamped steel part they would have made that way.

I painted it silver to kind of make it blend in. The big red air filter hides mast all of it any way. Many times I've wanted the 2 small ones like are buddies at GM used but just can't do it. Rockets show some photos when your done and I hope you have as much good luck as I have had.



http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/5a1c81a2-0889-4e2e-b89b-d87.jpeg

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/5c9746b4-f56e-409c-8347-7d5.jpeg
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Thanks!
By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
GOOGLE - canister coil mounting brackets - and you will find all kinds of options.