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By Rusty_S85 - 6 Years Ago
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Im looking at some NOS choke thermostats, correct one for my application is a B6A-9848-C. I found a few but I think they are excessively priced at over $100 for them before shipping.
Im curious what is a fair price on a NOS choke thermostat housing?
Mikes Carbs has a replacement style choke thermostat that will work on the old Holley 4000`s for $12 but I prefer to get a NOS ford one but cant justify spending over $100 for something like this.
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By Daniel Jessup - 6 Years Ago
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IMO, I would not pay any more than $40
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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Im curious what is a fair price on a NOS choke thermostat housing?
There is no fair price. This stuff is getting hard to come by and it sell's for whatever the market will bear.
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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It's really hard to estimate unless it's a fairly common item that sells regularly. In this instance, "fair" is probably somewhere between what you're willing to pay and what the seller is asking. Of course, the seller holds all the power. If they're not willing to come down and you're not willing to offer more, then forget NOS.
If you need it now, it doesn't sound like NOS will work for you. If it is not urgent, one is bound to show up at a more "reasonable" price. In general, on NOS items, don't wait too long. There is a finite supply and the price will generally increase.
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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If you want authenticity than you have to pay for it. NOS parts are getting harder and harder to find and if that is what you want you have to pay for it. Honestly, Joe average and even some owners of the same car won't notice that the wording on a thermostat housing is not authentic
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By Rusty_S85 - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks for the replies. For me its not a make or break to have NOS. Only reason I am looking at NOS is cause I know without a doubt it will have the mark cut into the choke for indexing so I know where the choke thermostat should be initially set to get me in the right area for proper operation. The replacement ones I don't know if they will have this mark. I can get one from Mikes Carbs for $12, or pick one up form concourse for $25. But no clear information on if they have this indexing mark. I have a reproduction choke shield that once that is bolted on even with the aircleaner off you wont notice the lack of the markings on the cover of the choke coil.
My main goal is proper function as well as the proper groove in the right place to assist in proper choke setting. I don't absolutely need NOS, just know that it will have the groove cut into it if go that route.
I did some looking online and I found this guys three photos from ebay on three other sites with different pricing which has me curious if this guy is trying to sell it but wont come down on the price on ebay at least.
So as of now I found it on Ebay for $120 + $8 for s/h. Seller told me he would take $100 for it min. Then doing a part number search I found the same 3 images on floatmarket for $89. Then there is boutiques fashionable that has it listed on sale from $56.58 to $43.23.
So for me I would jump on the one listing for $43.23 but I don't know if I want to order from there. I am willing to go to $40 for the part but I cant justify over $40 for it. I understand that the supply is going down so thus the price will go up but there is also a limited demand for the item at the same time which makes it hard for me to put a super high value of $100 on it but I guess if people are crazy enough to pay for it.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 6 Years Ago
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You say you want it to be "AUTHENTIC" but then you cry about paying for authentic. I do not
sympathize. Pete
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By Rusty_S85 - 6 Years Ago
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Pete 55Tbird (12/30/2018)
You say you want it to be "AUTHENTIC" but then you cry about paying for authentic. I do not sympathize. Pete
Don't recall saying I want it to be authentic. I stated I want the proper marking on the thermostat so I can properly set it where it needs to be for the initial setting.
No where did I say I want it to be OEM authentic so maybe you should read and re-read before you make yourself look foolish posting what you did.
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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You could mark the new one, using an original as reference.
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By Rusty_S85 - 6 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (12/30/2018)
You could mark the new one, using an original as reference.
Well the one I currently have has no marking on it. The one that came with the reman carb has a mark but I am not using it as I had to transfer my choke housing from my old carb to the new reman cause the fools forgot to put the choke saver on so I couldn't attach my choke tubes. Well in the process of that the choke thermostat rolled off the table and landed on the ground and cracked the plastic housing. With that crack in it, in my eyes its no good as it will most likely leak once it warms up. Unless the old timers from the tech classes I took years ago were wrong about that.
I probably could use that. My thing is lots of the choke thermostats I keep finding they have the spring positioned to expand towards the front of the car where mine needs to expand to the rear of the car. I think that is the 9848-A thermostats that has this clock wise lean design while I need the 9848-C style with the counter clockwise lean design.
If I could salvage the one that came with the reman carb with the crack in it I could just use that one till I find one a more reasonable price to change it out for at a later date.
Probably a strange thing to ask but is there a way to seal a crack on the plastic of the choke thermostat I do have? its on the side of the thermostat itself on the outside but on the inside the hairline crack runs to the flat side where the spring mounts. With how hot this assembly gets I don't think I could use like CA glue or something to seal it.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 6 Years Ago
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Rusty_S85 (12/30/2018)
Pete 55Tbird (12/30/2018)
You say you want it to be "AUTHENTIC" but then you cry about paying for authentic. I do not sympathize. Pete Don't recall saying I want it to be authentic. I stated I want the proper marking on the thermostat so I can properly set it where it needs to be for the initial setting. No where did I say I want it to be OEM authentic so maybe you should read and re-read before you make yourself look foolish posting what you did.
Sorry if I mis -understood you. To most "ordinary" guys NOS implies AUTHENTIC.
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By Rusty_S85 - 6 Years Ago
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Pete 55Tbird (12/31/2018)
Rusty_S85 (12/30/2018)
Pete 55Tbird (12/30/2018)
You say you want it to be "AUTHENTIC" but then you cry about paying for authentic. I do not sympathize. Pete Don't recall saying I want it to be authentic. I stated I want the proper marking on the thermostat so I can properly set it where it needs to be for the initial setting. No where did I say I want it to be OEM authentic so maybe you should read and re-read before you make yourself look foolish posting what you did. Sorry if I mis -understood you. To most "ordinary" guys NOS implies AUTHENTIC.
Sorry if NOS is implying authentic. to me NOS is just old stock that is new. I use NOS where possible as current production parts are garbage in many areas. Where possible I tend to use Ford branded parts if available for a reasonable price. While I am restoring this car it is also a driver. Thus I can not justify spending big bucks on authentic correct parts that will experience wear and tear. I found out from some digging the choke thermostat that came with the rebuilt carb I purchased the one that rolled off the table and hit the ground and got a crack in it now, well I found out that JB weld can be used to patch this up. So right now I got the thermostat standing up on end in a disposable tape dispenser while the clear JB Weld liquid epoxy dries on the outside as well as on the inside. Just put a very thin layer just enough for it to seep into the hairline crack and seal it. So tomorrow it should be fully cured enough to lightly sand and I will be putting it into service. This one at least spins in the choke housing smoothly the one I used instead that came off my old Holley 4000 fit real snug and just wouldn't turn easily.
I will use this one but I got ebay with the part number saved for this same choke thermostat and if one pops up for what I deem as a reasonable price I might pick up one or two more to keep as spares incase this one finally becomes unusable.
But sorry for the confusion while I would love to put everything back exactly as it was from the factory, I know that is not physically possible. I haven't even seen the proper marked belts before so I don't even think they exist for that to be done. If I could find photos of the belts I would consider scuffing the back of the belt and stenciling the correct numbers on but its just something that Ive accepted. So much has been changed on this car I don't know if I could ever get it back authentic to when it left the factory as there are questionable areas.
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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To repair the plastic housing, U could try Construction adhesive (available in small squeeze tubes) or J.B. weld will work on good plastics. Neither is a so called instant product. Good luck!
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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CASCO lists a Concours fan belt for 55/56
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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PF Arcand (1/2/2019)
To repair the plastic housing, U could try Construction adhesive (available in small squeeze tubes) or J.B. weld will work on good plastics. Neither is a so called instant product. Good luck!
That's what I ended up doing. I got some of that JB Weld Clear Weld in the syringe to get the perfect mix. I put a thin layer and because this stuff was runny it actually penetrated the crack after 24 hour drying period I took and used a sharp knife and scraped the excess off leaving just the epoxy in the crack. I just need to play with the setting I had it at index but the choke wouldn't open all the way even fully warmed up I have it currently on the second to lowest lean mark need to make sure it opens on its own fully if it does then I will leave it but I have a feeling I might have to move it to the last mark or even more to get it to where it will fully open.
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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paul2748 (1/2/2019)
CASCO lists a Concours fan belt for 55/56
They do? Guess I need to check them out cause I hate the toothed cog style V belt that all V belts are now.
~Update~
Interesting. I see they list a 8620-B belt for 56 with a 4 bladed fan. Problem is though I see two different part numbers for the fan belts for '56. First one is a B6A-8620-A with markings on the belt of ECG 8620-C. Then the other one is C1TZ-8620-C with belt marking of B6AE-8620-A listed as an optional belt for high speed 97:1 water pump pulley and 4 bladed fan. That sounds like the one for mine as my Fairlane has the 4 bladed fan not the 3 bladed fan.
I need to email Casco and ask them what markings are silk screen printed on the belt. Hopefully its B6AE-8620-A but looking at my book there were a lot of different markings for belts based off what amperage output generator you have and if you have ps or not and if you have a 3, 4 or 5 bladed fan.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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~Update~
Interesting. I see they list a 8620-B belt for 56 with a 4 bladed fan. Problem is though I see two different part numbers for the fan belts for '56. First one is a B6A-8620-A with markings on the belt of ECG 8620-C. Then the other one is C1TZ-8620-C with belt marking of B6AE-8620-A listed as an optional belt for high speed 97:1 water pump pulley and 4 bladed fan. That sounds like the one for mine as my Fairlane has the 4 bladed fan not the 3 bladed fan.
I need to email Casco and ask them what markings are silk screen printed on the belt. Hopefully its B6AE-8620-A but looking at my book there were a lot of different markings for belts based off what amperage output generator you have and if you have ps or not and if you have a 3, 4 or 5 bladed fan.
OK... Let me see if I can add my usual confusion to a subject ...
The BELT CHART in the FINAL ISSUE 49/59 is confusing in that most original service part numbers have been superseded and causes confusion. There is (was) a ROTUNDA BELT & HOSE CATALOG which made the whole thing much simpler.
The C1TE they are offering was a 1961 PN that superseding the original PN (both ENG and SERVICE PN) and that should be found in a period correct 1956 CHASSIS PARTS CATALOG. You also have to ask what manufacturer they are using for the replacement belt. Be heartbroken (IMO) to buy one and find MADE IN VIETNAM on it.
And here just for aggravation- https://autopartsobsolete.com/1956-Ford-Ford-truck-Nos-fan-belt-b6a8620-a.html
And also remember that SERVICE REPLACEMENT PARTS may vary in appearance form ASSEMBLY PARTS.
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (1/3/2019)
~Update~ Interesting. I see they list a 8620-B belt for 56 with a 4 bladed fan. Problem is though I see two different part numbers for the fan belts for '56. First one is a B6A-8620-A with markings on the belt of ECG 8620-C. Then the other one is C1TZ-8620-C with belt marking of B6AE-8620-A listed as an optional belt for high speed 97:1 water pump pulley and 4 bladed fan. That sounds like the one for mine as my Fairlane has the 4 bladed fan not the 3 bladed fan. I need to email Casco and ask them what markings are silk screen printed on the belt. Hopefully its B6AE-8620-A but looking at my book there were a lot of different markings for belts based off what amperage output generator you have and if you have ps or not and if you have a 3, 4 or 5 bladed fan. OK... Let me see if I can add my usual confusion to a subject ... The BELT CHART in the FINAL ISSUE 49/59 is confusing in that most original service part numbers have been superseded and causes confusion. There is (was) a ROTUNDA BELT & HOSE CATALOG which made the whole thing much simpler. The C1TE they are offering was a 1961 PN that superseding the original PN (both ENG and SERVICE PN) and that should be found in a period correct 1956 CHASSIS PARTS CATALOG. You also have to ask what manufacturer they are using for the replacement belt. Be heartbroken (IMO) to buy one and find MADE IN VIETNAM on it. And here just for aggravation- https://autopartsobsolete.com/1956-Ford-Ford-truck-Nos-fan-belt-b6a8620-a.htmlAnd also remember that SERVICE REPLACEMENT PARTS may vary in appearance form ASSEMBLY PARTS.
The email reply I got back is as follows for the silkscreened numbers on the belt itself.
8620A cogged ECD8620A
8620B cogged ECJ8577A
8620C cogged ECD33558A
8620D cogged ECJ33558A
8620BL smooth ECJ8577A
8620DL smooth ECJ33558A
The one listed on their site as 8620B is listed as fitting the 4 bladed fan.
This means the belt itself is marked on top ECJ8577A.
My parts and illustration manual 49 - 59 states the belt listed for my application is C1TZ-8620-C that is marked on the top with B6AE-8620-A. While I understand the C1 part is a updated number from 1961, but the B6AE marking on the belt is still a 1956 number. Sadly they do not have any belts marked B6AE-8620-A unless the B6AE marking is not correct and was changed also with the part number.
I looked in my Volume 2 July 1, 1955 OSI which I found out there were many volumes for each year. But looking up 8620 I see the following.
EAG-8620-C = EAA-8620-D
1GA-8620-B = obsolete
78-8620-A = 78-8620-C
78-8620-B = 78-8620-C
8RT-8620-A = 67-8620-A
I currently don't have any 1956 volumes nor any 1957 volumes next volume I have would be my Volume 3, Feb 1962. Which this OSI we have a winner.
I looked at the 8620 section and look what I found
B6AE-8620-A = C1TZ-8620-C.
So it looks like in Feb 1962 my correct belt for my '56 was replaced with C1TZ-8620-C and the correct part number is actually the number printed on the belt which is B6AE-8620-A.
Which means they do not offer a belt that would be concourse correct for my vehicle.
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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If it's that difficult a subject, how many "concours" judges will know the difference, as long as it looks original.? And didn't you day you drive the car somwhat?..
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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PF Arcand (1/4/2019)
If it's that difficult a subject, how many "concours" judges will know the difference, as long as it looks original.? And didn't you day you drive the car somwhat?..
That's the thing I don't know how many would know the difference.
Im trying to document what I found on the car that is original and use it as proof that the car was put back as it came originally even if it goes against what is accepted as concours correct.
For me in my mind I would like to have the car when finished win at least one trophy but I don't want the car to be a trailer queen which pretty much rules out concours judging as they want the car to be clean like it was never driven. Which is why I think you see so many trailer queens.
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