|
By beachbumrod - 9 Years Ago
|
|
Hi I am new to the forum and have been working on the 1955 Ford Fairlane My current issues are I upgraded the master cylinder and the new one doesn't have the port for the old hydraulic switch so I am thinking of installing a mechanical switch on the pedal.I bought a universal hot rod brake switch that should mount to the pedal. I also need to do some work on the windshield wiper motor as it seem to drag really slowly. I read somewhere to put the tube in trans fluid and let it suck it up into the box to lube it? and fix the driver side exhaust manifold that has a crack in it. I just had the radiator repaired, replaced the the radiator hoses, changed the cylinder and brake hose on the passenger side. Still need to do the driver side and changed the transmission fluid and install new filter and gasket. Also need to change the oil and install a new filter. On a lighter note I was able to drive it around the neighborhood and it did drive pretty good!
|
|
By Rowen - 9 Years Ago
|
Mornin beachbumrod n welcome!!
Pictures please!! Sounds like you have a plan.........?
|
|
By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
|
A mechanical brake switch is the best way to go because when adjusted properly, the moment the pedal moves, the brake lights come on. This is not true with the original style hydraulic switch - you have to push the pedal quite a bit harder before it comes on. I currently have a hydraulic switch and the way I drive, the brake lights do not come on as often as they should and that is not really a good thing.
That said, if you want to retain the hydraulic switch, all you need is a T with 2 inverted flare ports and one npt port.
|
|
By paul2748 - 9 Years Ago
|
I made a bracket for a mechanical brake switch on my 54 Ford. Works great. I did a write up on it and took pictures. If interested, send me your email address and I will send it to you.
|
|
By 57RancheroJim - 9 Years Ago
|
charliemccraney (5/17/2016)
A mechanical brake switch is the best way to go because when adjusted properly, the moment the pedal moves, the brake lights come on. This is not true with the original style hydraulic switch - you have to push the pedal quite a bit harder before it comes on. I currently have a hydraulic switch and the way I drive, the brake lights do not come on as often as they should and that is not really a good thing. That said, if you want to retain the hydraulic switch, all you need is a T with 2 inverted flare ports and one npt port. I recall reading about a switch that uses a lower pressure on one of the forums and I planned on doing that but now I can't find where I saved the info, or forgot to..
|
|
By 62bigwindow - 9 Years Ago
|
|
The lower pressure switch only needs 45 psi to activate the brake lights. There are a couple on Ebay. I'm not sure who else carries them but a quick search on Google should produce results. I put the oem type back in my car with a t fitting like Charlie mentioned. If I had seen the low pressure switch first I'd gone with that.
|
|
By Bobwanna - 9 Years Ago
|
|
56 Roger, Thanks for posting a pix on the switch. That looks like an easy to adapt part to our cars - and it a Ford part. To summarize the other posts going to a mechanical switch is the best and safest solution. Another problem with the hydraulic switches when used with Silicon brake fluid is failure. Unless you are going concours on your car the mechanical switch is best. - Bob
|
|
By FORD DEARBORN - 9 Years Ago
|
Greetings to all: Very good excellent point regarding brake lights and reaction tine. I too up-graded my '64 F100 by leaving the hydraulic switch in place and simply paralleling a mechanical switch as pictured earlier. The hydro switches takes what feels like for-ever to build up pressure and finally activate the stop lights as compared to a mechanical switch. When researching LED technology for our classic vehicles I discovered an interesting web site provided by Daniel Stern, an automotive lighting consultant. I'll try to provide the link. To carrying the quicker "on" time one step further would be to use LED tail lights in place of the standard incandescent bulbs. I didn't do the math (not my favorite subject) but it is stated in the web site: LED's turn on 200ms faster than standard bulbs equating to 20' more reaction tine at 60mph.. Couple years ago I was almost rear-ended which prompted me to install the pedal actuated switch and LED tail light replacement "bulbs." The mechanical switch and LED's compliment each other very well, -works and looks excellent for not much $. IMHO, the driving skills of yesteryear are now applied to cell phones. Take care, JEFF......... http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html
|
|
By Dobie - 9 Years Ago
|
|
Another thing to consider is adding a 3rd brake light. "Modern" cars have had them for decades now and most people are looking for them rather than watching your tail lights. There are kits available to add them to our ancient iron. The rear bumper you save may be your own. Strictly speaking, they're not a new idea; my Dad had a '49 Plymouth with the brake light built into the deck lid emblem.
|
|
By paul2748 - 9 Years Ago
|
 Here's the bracket and switch I made for my 54
|
|
By Bobwanna - 9 Years Ago
|
|
Very clean install! Looks OEM. Definitely on my list to do on my 55. Thanks - Bob
|