Hi,

I am removing the torque converter from my 1956 Parklane. I have the transmission out. The torque converter is drained and the housing bolts accessible through the floor at the top of the converter are out. I'm reading the removal instructions from a transmission manual and am not sure how to interpret. It says "remove the six flywheel to converter drive plate bolts"...I count eight from the rear of my TC and a whole bunch more from the front. I know I will have to take the starter out too. How heavy is this thing once it comes loose? Any tips on removal? Here are a couple of pictures:

From the back of the converter:



From the front:



MplsMike
'56 Parklane
Minneapolis, MN

Mike, Not those. The bolts they're referring to hold the torque converter to the plate. If you use a breaker bar to rotate the engine they will become obvious. First though disconnect the battery anr remove the starter and the bell housing. There are four bolts holding the bell to the engine. Careful, this is a fairly heavy part, as is the convertor.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

To see if I got it right, I need to find 4 bolts for the housing. I found two at the top through the floor, and I know I saw at least one more. Assuming I remove the other two, the housing should come off?

Then it's on to remove the converter?

MplsMike
'56 Parklane
Minneapolis, MN

As Frank suggests remove the starter and remaining bell housing bolts then remove the 6 converter to flex plate bolts. In your second picture rotate the flywheel slowly and you will see the 6 attaching bolts. I will post a picture in a minute after I scan one.

Mike, Usually I remove the trans, bell and torque converter as a unit to prevent damage to the front pump, front seal and pump drive on the converter. Not to mention it is easier to line up.

The reason I mention this is because you should consider reinstalling them as a unit.

Just my 1¢ worth...

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

OK, here is a picture of the 'tabs' that the 6 converter bolts attach to. Remove 3 then rotate engine 180° and remove the other 3. Once removed pull the converter back an inch or so to disengage the pilot from the end of the crankshaft. Then converter will come off the flexplate (or 'flywheel' as Ford calls it in this picture).



"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Mike, when you do pull the converter, if it is an air-cooled transmission the converter bell will be finned aluminum. It is about 15 lbs or so. There are "witness marks" small o`s on the two half`s for ballance purposes. This type converter is bolted together and easy to check and clean.

I think I see PAK on the plate rivited to you FOM case That is the trans ID PAKxxx you can google this and see what it is.

Be very careful of the term Cruiso in regard to early ( late 50`s and early 60`s Ford automatics ) as this name was used for a varity of transmission WHICH ARE VERY DIFFERENT.

Pete

I forgot to add check the ears rivited to the flexplate that is bolted to the crank. They crack and make noise.

Hi Pete,

You couldn't be more right. Both tabs must have been cracked pretty badly as there is a pretty poor welding job on each one. In fact, one of the nuts appears welded to the tab. There is so much slag on it I can't get a tool on it, so I am sawing it and trying to split it and generally making a mess. I will send a picture later if I remember. Are there replacement flexplates available? Wouldn't all the welding create some imbalance in the plate?

Thanks for all of the advice, guys. Other than this problem, everything went well.

MplsMike
'56 Parklane
Minneapolis, MN

While you have it apart look for a newer style flywheel and torque converter. They will fit your transmission. The flywheel is a complete circle with the starter ring attached to it. The torque converter has no starter ring and is a smoother case. The torque converter has studs that fit into the flywheel with nuts on the block side. Chuck



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Thanks, Chuck. Any idea what model and year I should be looking for?

MplsMike
'56 Parklane
Minneapolis, MN

Mike, the flywheel with ring gear on it came out in 1958 and continued through at least 1962. You have to be aware that the number of splines on the FOM input shaft changed from 17 to 29 so the torque converter must match the FOM input shaft for it to work. Also be aware at this time, 1959 Ford made a TWO SPEED A/T that was also named a FOM. They are NOT THE SAME.

The advantage of the later ( 58 and up) FOM are you get liquid cooling, you can get a higher stall put in the T/Q, with a lot of work parts from a FMX can be added into a FOM medium case and a vacuum modulator valve used to controll shift points and RPM that the shift occures.

Unless you are going to race your car it would be nice to have but not really necessary. I still think you should consider buying that used rebuilt FOM you were offered. Pete