|
By San Diego Ron - 16 Years Ago
|
|
Just finished adaptor for spin-on oil filter and cleaned and installed new filter in the draft tube canaster but the thing is dripping my just added new 20/50 w oil. Does the new filter need to soak up some oil before it holds it back or should I block off the whole mess and add PCV system...somehow?
|
|
By PF Arcand - 16 Years Ago
|
|
Ron: did you ensure the drain back tube in the back of the canister, into the pan, is clear? Also, what many fail to take into account, is that crankcase ventilation is dependent on getting air "into" the engine, thru the mesh in the Oil Filler Cap. Often they are plugged with dirt & dirty oil. Hence no proper venting. Clean it thoroughly, if it won't clean up well, replace it!.. Also some small after market caps are next to useless as intake vents.
|
|
By Ted - 16 Years Ago
|
|
As Paul brought up, you’ll need to verify that the drain back tube is clear. This is that curved ¼” tube coming out of the road draft tube and back into the block. If stopped up, then the canister isn’t draining back to the block properly. Another spot of contention is the face of the road draft tube where it bolts to the block. If this is not true or straight, then oil is simply leaking at this point. But I like the idea of doing away with the road draft tube anyhow and going with a PCV system.
|
|
By Bigwin56F100 - 16 Years Ago
|
|
Product Service Letter P-344 April 29, 1957 Crankcase ventilation tube oil leaks. (1957 272 truck and all 57 car engines) On some early production 1957 272, 292, 312 engines, oil leakage may occur between the crankcase ventilation cover and the cover gasket. This leakage can result from the use of the vent screen assy (EAD-6841-A) which is too long and does not allow the cover to seat properly on the gasket. To eliminate this oil leakage , use metal cutting shears to trim the vent screenassy to a length of 1 13/16 inches. I found this in my service bulletins and thought I'd share, Kevin Bigwin
|
|
By davis - 16 Years Ago
|
spin on oil filter adapter? where do i get one?
mummert? T-bird aftermarket supplier?
i'm new with Y's.
thanks
|
|
By Town Vicky - 16 Years Ago
|
|
NAPA has them
|
|
By YukonCor55 - 16 Years Ago
|
|
You can get new filters for the breather cannister from Tee-Bird Products (Part # 6A631A) in Exton, PA. http://www.tee-bird.com/ I also have a part number for AC Brand that some folks may still carry (Part # FB 24 Breather Element)
|
|
By aussiebill - 16 Years Ago
|
|
Ron, the guys are all on right track but i can add this, i often find when fitting road draft breather covers that the little strap holding the retaining nut is often crooked due to the cover being knocked when being moved about and the result is the tin cover only pulls down to one side and allows any oil to drip out, also the new filters are too long WIX 42841 and need trim to fit nice. I recently built new engine etc and was amazed at oil leak on floor under breather tube, and ran my finger around the canister lip and body and there it was, it was just a matter of bending the nut and strap to pull down evenly and no leaks. Hope this helps. Regards Aussie Bill. G,Day LON.
|
|
By speedpro56 - 16 Years Ago
|
NAPA has the road draft filter as well at a very reasonable price.
|
|
By 56 effie - 16 Years Ago
|
|
I have found Sacramento Vintage Ford good for parts for my 56 f100. I have seen the spin on oil filter kit in there inventory for about $25.00.
|
|
By Y block Billy - 16 Years Ago
|
|
I recently had a road draft tube act as if it were leaking out the tube, Cleaned and painted it, new filter and checked surfaces for mating, used some Hylomar on gasket surfaces. Still leaking, I knew my engine was ok because it never leaked a drop and all of a sudden was leaking out the draft tube quite heavy when run hard. I jacked the car up and I laid down under the car with the motor running wiping the tube clean with a rag and found it was coming from the back side of the tube. I traced the leak and found a tiny pinhole in the canister about a quarter inch from the tube between the motor and tube. This is right where the oil should be flowing back into the engine and it is also the low point in the canister which is where condensation would settle and rust it out. There was a tiny spot on the newly painted canister where the paint had peeled off and in the middle of that spot was a tiny pinhole that would create a drop about every 30 seconds or so. This drop would form a small stream and flow down the back side of the tube and around the tapered edge so it looked like the oil was coming from inside the tube. Something to keep in mind when dealing with a leaky draft tube is that it may be coming from outside the tube due to condensation corrosion around the tube or canister. Although I had it off 2 times for cleaning and painting I never discovered it so if you take it off, pick around the bottom of the canister with an awl. It was a relief finding the real problem, thats an easy fix, motor problems aren't.
|
|
By San Diego Ron - 16 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks, that's something worth looking into and makes a lot of sense.
|
|
By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
|
|
Hello Ron,I just converted my 56 to PCV system and I have to say its a vast improvement over the road draft setup.When I walk in the garage it doesn't smell like oil and gas.I don't have puffs of smoke comming from under the motor when I stop at a light.For whats involved in converting its well worth it in my opinion.Regards,Mark
|
|
By masterced - 15 Years Ago
|
I wanted to clean out the filter on the road draft tube of my '56 312, as I was getting quite a bit of exhaust out of the filler tube. I replaced all the gaskets in the engine a few years back, but for some reason I was too intimidated by the odd device to even mess with it. Now that I finally opened it up, you should have seen the pile of gunk stuck in there! The old oil came out of the can like a jello mold. When I got it all cleaned up, I noticed the cover seemed to press quite hard onto the filter, but because I hadn't read this post yet I thought, Oh well, all the better to seal it up!
It only took a few fast corners after it was all assembled to find that something was clearly not right. Oil was everywhere! I searched the forums for answers (why don't I do that ahead of times one in a while??) and found that the filter should be trimmed down. With some patience and a pair of wire cutters I had it fitting nicely.
However, I noticed that no matter how I spun the cover of the breather, I could not get the hole for the bolt to line up right with the tab that the bolt screws into. Just like Aussie Bill said in a previous post, I had to bend the tab a bit until the cover would sit even on the gasket.
Now that its all put together right I've been burning around corners and working the engine HARD. So far I've seen one drip come out of the tube onto the pavement. A VAST improvement! Thanks again everyone for your help! Wanted to be another witness that you may need to bend your tab back into shape to get the cover to sit properly.
Ced
|
|
By unibody madness - 15 Years Ago
|
|
can someone pls post pics or a site/search that will show parts being described both my 292s are fresh rebuilds and would like to have this resolved before install they both have tubes that screw into the block through the valley pan and simply vent down and over bellhousing with no restriction, no filter, nothing. my 80 year old engine rebuilder did give me a piece that will srew into the valley pan but has a smaller tube nipple, i assume to vent back through a pcv valve, like the 223 6 cyl does,back into the intake... thanks for your help john
|
|
By PF Arcand - 15 Years Ago
|
Unibody; Since your engines aren't installed, you might want to convert to a PVC setup. There are several posts on that subject going back.
Ced; The other thing to remember with the crankcase venting, is to remember that the air intake on stock engines is thru the oil filler cap. Ensure that the screen is kept clean, or the system doesn't work.
|
|
By Ol'ford nut - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Guess I'm lucky my car was sold in California and they required a PCV. So my car came with the oil cap venting to the air filter and the PCV going to a plate mounted under the carb. The vent on the left side of the block has a cap bolted in its place.
|
|
By San Diego Ron - 14 Years Ago
|
|
Just in case anyone comes across this old post...I found why my draft tube was leaking, is was loose from the block and oil was running down the OUTSIDE of tube, only looked like is was from inside tube
|
|
By lrs30 - 14 Years Ago
|
|
Where does the draft tube return to on the block what side? Someone put a PCV valve on mine screwed it into the manifold and ran a hose from that to the canister on the back of the motor which I am assuming is the Road draft tube canister... And I am thinking that this is the cause for my Vacume leak symptoms irratic idle...
|
|
By PWH42 - 14 Years Ago
|
|
In case you don't catch my other post,the PCV screwed into the intake in front of the carb is the original factory equipment on a 64 truck.
|
|
By lrs30 - 14 Years Ago
|
|
PWH42 (10/24/2010)
In case you don't catch my other post,the PCV screwed into the intake in front of the carb is the original factory equipment on a 64 truck.Where should it terminate on the engine, mine is running back to the cannister just behind the valley pan
|
|
By PWH42 - 14 Years Ago
|
|
Yours is hooked up right.The line from the valve screwed into the manifold goes to the "cannister"in the valley pan under the rear of the intake manifold.
|