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By vntgtrk - 11 Years Ago
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OK so Dennis Carpenter has these for F500-600 trucks for 75 bucks. I put one on and it won't go on far enough to line up with the water pump pulley. Shy about 1/4". IR impact wrench and regulator both turned up to loud!!! Is this to be expected? If so should I make a shim for the w/pump pulley outa some 1/4 inch stock I have on hand? Would that possibly cause a balance problem?
I'm a bit confused because my shop manual for the '59 Ford trucks says the 500-600 may or may not have a HD engine as opposed to a MD. Would there be a difference here? Am I making a mountain out of a mole hill?
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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I am not sure if your impact wrench is able to seat the damper all the way down to where it should be. Some of the auto parts stores, like Auto Zone allow you to borrow tools for free. I would call them and ask them if they have a harmonic balancer installation tool to loan. That is what I always use. I bought my own installation and removal tools and found that they work really well. I wouldn't start shimming things just yet. Just my two cents worth.
Rono
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By The Horvaths - 11 Years Ago
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Easy on that crank with the impact wrench. They have been known to shear. I have seen fan pulleys with spacers. I may have one in the garage but I can't look tonight. I will look at the HiPo CD to check the parts calog. The damper isn't usually particularly a tight fit. It is snug but not tight.
Edit - I said fan spacer but I mean water pump pulley spacer.
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By The Master Cylinder - 11 Years Ago
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Is the damper going on all the way to seat against the timing gear?
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By The Horvaths - 11 Years Ago
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I don't have the '59 parts CD, but, the earlier one shows only a hub, #B6C8553B. However, I bought a high-mount fan style of water pump that was taken from an F600. It definitely has a spacer between the hub and the pulley. The spacer was about 1/4" thick that I recall. I'm pretty certain, I simply would measure it to be dead on. I will look for it tomorrow if nobody else chimes in.
BTW: does yours happen to already have a spacer? It doesn't hurt to ask..
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By vntgtrk - 11 Years Ago
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Oh NO!. Well I can see thru the fuel pump hole that the damper is up against the oil slinger. I decided to turn the engine over by hand and I hear a real bad grinding type sound. This can't be good
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By vntgtrk - 11 Years Ago
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And no I don't have a spacer
I took a turkey baster and squirted some oil on the timing chain while turning the crank. No change in the noise. So I got my high tech redneck stethoscope (big screwdriver) and started the investigation. So my next question: what is the most reliable source of a starter drive? (I feel stupid!).
Whew!!
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By The Horvaths - 11 Years Ago
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Wow! Whew is right!
Not sure on the starter drive. I think that a sanity check may be in order. Is there enough shaft protruding through the water pump pulley to allow a spacer to fit behind the pulley and still have shaft length enough to keep the pulley centered? If so, you may simply need a spacer. Well, a spacer, a starter drive, and a good, stiff beverage. Wow. What a scare.
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By vntgtrk - 11 Years Ago
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It looks like there is about 3/8" sticking out on the w/pump shaft
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By The Horvaths - 11 Years Ago
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OK, I looked at my '55 F500. It has a 239 with high-mount fan. The "spacer" actually goes between the pulley and the cap screws/lock washers. So, it would not act as a spacer. It would serve to help minimize stresses on the mounting face of the pulley. Hmmm. Does anybody else have a suggestion?
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By stuey - 11 Years Ago
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don't know if this is any help but i've been looking in my shop manual for 56 truck and this refers to 272 engine
re positioning of hub on water pump shaft
measurements from pump face (the face that sits on the timing cover) to the front face of the hub
4.72" for light duty engine
4.48" for heavy duty engine
a 1/4" spacer may well do providing there is enough shaft to locate the pressed steel water pump pulley
the question that springs to mind is why are the measurements diferent
stuey
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By The Horvaths - 11 Years Ago
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I'm thinking that you could pull the hub out to where things line up. I made a puller just for water pump hubs from a steel disk and some grade 8 bolts.
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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Thats something that I never think about when everything lines up except the water pump pulley. As stated the flange for the pulley is pressed on without a stop so it can be moved in or out depending on what you need. Just watch for fan to crank pulley clearence and radiator. Chuck
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By The Horvaths - 11 Years Ago
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And put any pressures on the hub and the shaft end(s) only when moving a hub. The bearing is not designed for axial loading.
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By vntgtrk - 11 Years Ago
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I still have the single damper I got with the core engine. I also somehow got an extra seal for it. So when I pushed it onto the spare damper, it stopped on a ridge about 3/8" from the tapered part where the pulley itself mates up. My calibrated eyeballs tell me I'm awful close to that on the engine. Close enough I shouldn't have an oil leak.
Also I know short water pump dual pulleys from a Chebbie will work and shims are easy to get thru Summit. Naturally this means grabbing a tape measure and going to the local Pull and Save (damn the bad luck!!).
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By 312T85Bird - 11 Years Ago
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I would quess that you are trying to put this on a car motor? Use the truck water pump and generator pulleys and they will match up.
312T85Bird
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By vntgtrk - 11 Years Ago
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Turns out there is a difference between truck and car water pumps. Oh well, live and learn.
Anybody wanna reman car w/pump?
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By aussiebill - 11 Years Ago
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The truck and car pumps use different offset pulleys to keep things linedd up dont they 1
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By marvh - 11 Years Ago
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The truck water pump should have a larger shaft than a car water pump also.
marv
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