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By marvh - 11 Years Ago
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Frank:
Here is a link to some info on the Merlin engines.
http://www.aviation-history.com/engines/merlin.htm
http://www.aviation-history.com/avro/683.html
marv
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By PWH42 - 11 Years Ago
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Frank,if you want to hear those Allisons again,go to one of the big tractor pulls this summer.There are several pullers running them.There are several running two of them and at least one guy running three on his tractor.Wild sound.
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By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
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That pump will work, but you'll need to "Boost Reference" it somehow so the pressure increases as the blower winds up. (I and Hoosier) use electric pumps and regulators that control the pressure to 5 or 6 lbs above manifold's number .
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By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
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Aussie, other than the nitrophil floats, it's probably a good idea to make sure the needle and seats will flow enough fuel, especially with a Teapot. Ron ought to be OK since the Holley has two needle and seats, but I was amazed at how much effort was required to make the teapot work. John actually has a solonoid bypass system that blows fuel past the needle/seat under power and boost.
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By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
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Exactly, the "unlimited" Hydros of the fifties, "Slo motion" , miss Budweiser etc. used them I think without the nitrous. Awesome sound, sorta like a citizen of Hamburg or Dresden must have heard in 1944 and '45. They're all gone now, replaced by Turbines. When I was a kid my Dad would take me to the races on the Detroit River, it was quite a sight for kid believe me!
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By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
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Paul, I get a bit confused by all the great engines built during the WWII period. But I think you're correct that Packard built the Rolls Merlins for both the P51 (B's) and the PT boats in Detroit. I could be mistaken but I believe the Allisons were Detroit Diesel manufactured. The Allisons had a Diesel version that was used in the american submarines. The Allison was the most common version in unlimited Hydros and most American aircraft. The Merlins made more HP according to what I've read. There also was an Allison powered 32 sedan in early NHRA racing as well as the "Green Monsters" of the Arfon Bros. from Akron, Ohio. I saw that one run, smoked the tires for the entire quarter mile! The sound of the hydros is something you never forget, imagine 4 or 5 together on the Detroit river a 1/4 mile away at 150 mph. Pretty impressive stuff for a pre teen kid.(me)
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By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
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Paul, Works for me,
i'll have to try that.
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By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
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Probably boils down to people and money, or the lack of money. Ford/GM/and Chrysler had more. Packard was still building inline, Flathead, straight eights five years after Cadillac and Chrysler went to OHV V8's. Styling was big (Still is) and the Packards didn't compete well with the big three I'd guess.
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By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
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Chuck, I grew up in Ohio, about 25 miles from Arfons shop.
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By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
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Ron, This is not an exact simile` but a set of Jerry Christian's Roadster headers was worth 50 ft lbs on my F code, on the Dyno. The primaries were way too long so that happened in the 3-4000 range which means not too much HP added. But the right headers etc, you get the idea.
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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Durn that thing sho is purdy! Is that the bracket from the guy in Canada? Also that bonnet is something else. Where did you find it? It seems to make sense the way the flow expands. I don't think I've ever seen a polished oil pump before! Next will be the running video and then the Dyno. You've put a lot of time in this engine and I hope it pays you back. Chuck
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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Initially I was not real convinced about nitrile floats with 6-8lbs of boost. Then at the nationals one year my carb went all weird. Finally opened it up and both brass floats had collapsed. Luck was with me as Ted had a set for my carb. So yes, do the solid floats cause it will bite you if you don't. Chuck
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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One of the killers of these superchargers is heat and boy they can get hot. I've managed to find one of the oil coolers that they made for these and the Paxton's. It's really a fairly simple device with a tube that has a hole for out and in. Must be a double tube so the oil routes pass through. After that it's just a small cooler and an electric fuel pump. I've also wondered about intercoolers but the consensus is that they don't put out enough boost to make it worth doing. Someday Id like to build a box around the pressure side that goes to the carb. Something easy to open so I could slap some dry ice in before a run. Id love to see if it makes a difference.
I'm taking my 56 up to Bill's soon for some work. All of us should get together soon! Chuck
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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I havn't run it yet but since my driving is 95% street I took out the MSD and put in a Mallory electronic with vacume advance. I need to mention the MSD was never dialed in. I'm also running the 6BTM box. Chuck
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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As far as damage to the supercharger by heat that is correct. Its the unit that gets hot then the air passing through heats up. I'm not sure of the parameters for an intercooler but the consensus was it wouldn't make enough difference on these systems. Might be wrong, but none of our fast McCulloch guys is running one. The oil cooler makes sense just to prevent early parts failure. I've lost one of these units on the highway and it happens almost too quick to pull over. Bearing froze, belt broke, and there were a lot of damaged parts in the drive assembly. Chuck
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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Thats the general consensus of what I've been told. The Mccullouch units would not show much gain due to the low boost. Someday I hope to build a cool box around the hose from the supercharger to the carb hat and drop in some dry ice to see what it will do.
I've seen intercoolers for the roots systems that consist of a box that fits between the supercharger and the intake. Often cooled by water pumped through cooling fins. Chuck
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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We didn't have any of the big boat races around where I grew up but I got my Allison/Merlin fix from these guys.
Some of you really old guys may remember the Arfons brothers Green Monsters! Chuck
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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What shop in New Hampshire did you go to for the Dyno? Chuck
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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Not right now. I thought I recognized the Dyno room. The fellow I've dealt with is in Londonderry, NH. Place called R&R Machine. They have a Dyno but I'm not sure if its being used now. The younger of the two owners died suddenly and he was the high performance guy. Chuck
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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Actually the truck headers with the tubes setup by firing sequence are in my garage right now. Those were the ones that tested near the top in Ted's exhaust marathon. I'd be willing to loan them for a Dyno run. Chuck
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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Funny you should mention Bill. Those headers are actually in his shop now. He's got my Vicky for paint. Chuck
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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From the prices I was getting for Dyno time in New England it may be cheaper to send the motor to Ted Eaton so he can do his magic. At least he can spell Y! Chuck
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By glrbird - 11 Years Ago
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The 37 coupe is one of my favorites, any pictures?
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By glrbird - 11 Years Ago
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Congrats Ron
also no video here, but another part of the 37 is ready to go. Good Luck!
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By Hollow Head - 11 Years Ago
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Well guys... about cooling the inlet air. And this comes from my one and only bible - Turbocharging and Supercharging by Alan Allard. So, if you don't belive me, google his name and you will know who he is and what he has done in the world of charging engines.
"The effect of compressing air is to raise it's temperature. For every 150 F (65 C) increase there will be an effective loss in air density equivalent to 2.0 psi of boost."
I understand this so that if you have 14 psi of boost and your intake air temperature increases from 100 F to 250 F you loose 2 psi and you'll only have 12 psi in use. Right? One reason to cool intake air?
"The use of an intercooler (aftercooler) is important for two reasons. Intercooler cools the charge air and increases the density of the charge and therefore its mass flow into the engine. The greater mass flow of air allows a greater quantity of fuel/air mixture to be converted to power."
"Secondly, it reduces the thermal loading on an engine for given boost and power output. The reason for this is that, for every degree drop in temperature of the inlet charge, there is roughly similar drop on the exhaust side, which contributes to a reduction in thermal loading on valves and pistons and reduces the amount of heat which has to be dissipated by the engine."
"For example, engine with maximum boost of 12 psi (1.8 pressure ratio) with compressor efficiency of 65 per cent and an ambient air temperature of 20 C, the compressed air disgharge temperature will be approximately 130 C after passing through the turbocharger. If we fit a 70 per cent efficient intercooler, the temperature of the air entering the engine will have been reduced to 53 C." The 77 C reduction in charge temperature can be calculated to give four per cent increase to flywheel power."
"Some figures show a gain of as much as 1 hp increase for 1 celsius drop in charge air temperature."
So, what are you guys thinking.... 170F degree difference just with 12 psi of boost...
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By PF Arcand - 11 Years Ago
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With Packard's successful early history & as posted here, their work sorting out the WWII Rolls Merlins, it makes one wonder how the company went so far off the rails after the war?
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By bird55 - 11 Years Ago
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Congrats!, No need to apologize for the time spent. I think a lot of us have to do it the same way. Nice work. Looking forward to the dyno video.
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By LordMrFord - 11 Years Ago
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Roots-style airmover is quite difficult to cool, because pressure is made in all the way from charger rotors to cylinder, so air is heating after intercooler too.That's why with roots-style charger its better to locate the cooler close to intake manifold as possible -> Bigger difference in temperature so better cooler effiency.
Water/methanolinjection must be good with Roots, cause you can cool air directly in manifold.(and you can hide the injectors quite easy)
Centrifugal-style chargers (and turbochargers) generates the pressure and heat in compressor so you can locate the intercooler where every you want.
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By Ol Ford Guy - 11 Years Ago
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FWIW I have a 91 Mustang GT that I bougfht new and still own. It has a ProCharger P1/SC, the SC stands for self contained oil. I am running 11 lbs of boost. I opted for the 3 core intercooler, a 2 core was standard with the kit. The kit came with a FMU, Fuel Management Unit. I found the FMU setting to be critical and I worried about the engine running too lean. I have an MSD6-BTM, but I still was worried and the performance was also down when not set right. After all that, I went to a AFMS PMS, Anderson Motorsports Programmable Management System, and went to a bigger 250 lph intake fuel pump, I already had upgraded to a 190 lph and also have a rear mounted electric fuel pump that came with the kit. Then I had the car dyno tuned and picked up about 95 HP, about 460 RWHP now. When the blower was first installed, the car ran 12.19 at 119 MPH. Now the car has several suspension and traction upgrades and is really running great...but it's been a few years and I haven't been back to the track. It seems my 57 has taken my time and interest. The boost retard on the MSD has been removed since the programmable management system takes care of that.
Regarding the Merline engines, I read an article in Hemmings Classic Cars about the Merlin engines. It said that the Merlin engines made in the USA outperformed the UK engines and were more reliable. Not sure, but they may have been made by Packard.
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By Ol Ford Guy - 11 Years Ago
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I saw an Allison powered pulling tractor win a big meet at an International Farm Exposition. I did a little more checking on the Rolls Royce Merlin engines and the US made Packard Merlin engines were greatly improved. The biggest improvement was in the supercharger pre cooling and after cooling with a glycol to air cooling system. You will find several articles on Merlin engines if you go to Hemmings web site. www.hemmings.com and go to advanced search and select the down arrow and go to back issues and search Packard Merlin. You can fins all kinds of neat articles this way. I apologize for straying away from the original topic, but didn't think I should start a new thread.
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By Daniel Jessup - 11 Years Ago
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Looking GOOD!! That motor is a thing of beauty and with those internals she will have no problem with the boost.
I noticed there is no distributor in there yet, what are you planning to run, and will you need to boost reference your vacuum advance?
Also, what are your thoughts on fuel delivery (if I missed that)?
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By Y block Billy - 11 Years Ago
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Do you sleep with that thing in the garage at night? I would!
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By Y block Billy - 11 Years Ago
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Ron,
Stopped at my motor guys last night to bring him some parts, he is starting his own shop and talking to him he mentioned when he gets his dyno set up he supposed to dyno a Y block from Pittsfield with a supercharger on it, I said I know whos motor it is, I may go there and help him set up his dyno and definately want to be there when it is tested!
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By Y block Billy - 11 Years Ago
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I just brought a block up to their new shop they needed for a 390 rebuild, things look a little ways away but Steve left his last post and is working there full time so it may come together quicker than thought, We Hope! Nice looking setup and the other partner is a sharp Ford Man all the way!
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By Y block Billy - 11 Years Ago
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I think he is saying we cannot make out the Power, torque, AF mixture it made in the video, do you have a copy of the sheet you can post?
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By Y block Billy - 11 Years Ago
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Hi Rono, The numbers appear a bit low for the motor you have, I would think more towards the 400 range, the Air fuel mixture AF numbers tell you what the optimum number is so you can adjust/replace/ jet up/jet down the carb bla bla bla to get the optimum HP torque etc, they should be somewhere between 12-14% but Ted can probably tell you the exact optimum numbers, I think a .4 is in there somewhere whether it is 12.4 or 13.4 etc but they are very important numbers to have to dial it in correctly.
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By aussiebill - 11 Years Ago
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Ron, other than rejetting carb, was there anything else to be done for this blowthrough application? thanks. regards bill.
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By aussiebill - 11 Years Ago
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Rono, i,ve never seen a slsave cyl like that, it pulls right? 
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By ejstith - 11 Years Ago
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Damn ! That's purty !!
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By mctim64 - 11 Years Ago
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Good job Ron! I think you will see some improvement in the numbers with a few changes. Great starting point though. 
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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    I think I have finally gotten to the point where some pictures could be posted. I'm almost embarassed to say that it's taken me almost 4 years to get to this point, but I've had so many set-backs, I've lost count. I want to thank all you guys for the technical support and parts and I think this will be the year of the "dyno"!!
Just to re-cap, this is a C2AE block (relieved) with one of John M's 331 stroker kits. The heads are ported and polished 471's and the cam is a Comp Cam special grind#37-000-5 on 110 degree lobe centers with a gross valve lift of .491 intake and .482 exhaust.
The supercharger is a McCulloch VS-57 modified by John Erb to an SN-60 with a heavy street spring pack and high output impeller that should put out 7-9 psi boost. The brackets, pulleys, belt, carb hat, etc are Gord McMillans' "Blower Kit" items which he mocks up for each individual application. The carb is a simple Holley 650 double pumper 4150 (model 0-4777) sitting on top of a modified "B" intake. I've re-jetted it to 67 primaries and 76 secondaries.
Hopefully, if all goes well, this will be going in a 37 Ford 5 window coupe that I just bought and will be going on a road trip to pick it up in a couple of weeks. I'll post some pictures of that when I get it back.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Chuck and AussieBill;
The carb hat is one of the pieces cast by Gord McMillen and comes with (cast) bracket in the blower kit. I made a cardboard template of the bracket because I was thinking about having another one made on a water jet machine. The cast bracket does have the "old school" look, but some of the pits couldn't be polished out. There were some pits on the carb hat too. I got most of them out, but there was one on the top I couldn't get so I covered it with that decal.
As far as setting up the carb for "blow-through", the only things Gord suggested were to remove or wire open the choke butterfly and plug all the vacuume ports (in addition to re-jetting). I may have a problem with this because I'm not sure if this carb will be big enough under boost. So instead of using threaded plugs in all the vacuume ports I used epoxy to glue on those rubber caps that come with new carbs. If I need to sell the carb the caps can be removed. I don't think the 7-9 psi boost will blow them off, but I'm not sure. If you are using an older carb with a slightly worn throttle plate, Gord has a special part and instructions on how to prevent fuel leakage. I did nothing to the accelerator pump diaphrams (there was no mention of that with the installation manual provided with the blower kit) but in researching this on the internet, under higher boost conditions the diaphrams in the accelerator pumps need to be modified by removing the rubber flap and inserting some kind of steel ball. I didn't do this and don't think I will need to.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Because it's a new carb with low boost, Gord never said anything about throttle shaft seals or changing over to the poly floats. I have read about the floats and as I said earlier, about the accelerator pump diaphrams, but Gord apparently doesn't change any of that. I may get some other opinions though.
Yeah...I'll definately shoot a video of the dyno run.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Okay Chuck, since you're speaking from experience, consider it done. Summit Racing has the nitrophyl floats for about $15.00 each. I'll change out both. Thanks for the heads-up!
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Thanks Mark...but now that I can see where the blower sits in relation to the exhaust, I hope I can get it in the engine bay of the coupe. I was planning on leaving the hood sides off the car anyway and just keep the hood top so you could see the motor. I'll be running the full fenders, but I think the blower will be above the inner fender panels.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Chuck;
I've seen drawings of the dip stick cooler and it looks like it should work as you say with a small oil cooler and electric pump. The volume in the S/C head unit is so small, you have to wonder why they don't all burn up. I've to ytalking to a Yblocker in southern CA who has been running the same S/C set-up for 2 years without any problems. Keep the Type "F" topped off and don't over-spin the head unit should help keep things going.
Send me a PM when you are planning on going over to Bill's place and I'll meet you there.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Here are some pictures of the hydraulic clutch mock-up. I think it should work but is untested right now. A friend of mine made a similar set-up for his 57 and 32 Fords (neither has Y-Blocks). One thing I didn't expect was the hardness of the clutch fork. If I used the stock rod hole at the end of the fork, the slave cylinder would be too far away from the tranny. I wanted to relocate the rod hole 1&1/2" in towards the bell housing, but when I went to drill it, I couldn't. Hardened steel. I had to bring it to a machine shop where a hole was milled and countersunk with coolant. I made a small bracket off the oil pump for a return spring which is a modified (56) F-100 clutch fork spring.
I'm using ECI under floor power brake and clutch set-up for 35-40 Fords which mounts in the original location on the stock cross-member and is the only piece of the cross member I left attached to the frame rail. I'll post those pictures on a different thread.
Rono 
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Ausseibill;
That is correct. It is a Wilwood pull-type slave cylinder. Ideally, you should mount it with the bleeder valve facing upward. I'll use a SS flex brake hose line to make my connection to the under floor hydraulic clutch reservoir.
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Charlie;
I'm not sure what you mean by "pulls left"? Also, if I use the original hole in the clutch fork, The slave cylinder would be angled outward quite a bit if I keep the same general heim end distance from the transmission. I suppose I could try that with the same bracket moving the heim end forward. If that slave cylinder needs to be at a right angle to the clutch fork, then it would stand away from the transmission about 4" and I'm not sure I'll have the room until I get the motor in the car.
Rono
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By Rono - 6 Years Ago
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Hard to believe I started this post 5 years ago, but here is what my motor has evolved into. I'm loaded up and headed to the Dyno shop this week. I'll try to get a video of it running.
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By Rono - 6 Years Ago
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No filter for the test. Just wanted to keep dirt out for the drive over. Thanks for the advice on filter size. When I mocked up the motor in the coupe, The hood top was able to close without any air filter on. I have to decide whether I will run a hood with a scoop, or no hood. I'll most likely leave the hood sides off either way.
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Oh,... Yes I have I printout, but I'm not too proud of the HP. The torque was good but we only ran the motor up to 5,000 RPM. He didn't think he needed to run mass air balance when we first broke the motor in without the blower hooked up, but I have the A/F ratio numbers. I don't know why he didn't want to measure air flow, but I wasn't going to argue with him because I don't know that much about it. I'll take a picture of the data and post it when I get a chance.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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I remember seeing a sheet that had air/fuel ratio numbers, but in the copies he gave me it wasn't there. HP numbers were still climbing when we stopped the pull. Conclusion was that I need to go to a bigger carb (750 cfm) and add a good set of headers.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Hi Billy;
Gord McMillen also feels that the motor should be capable of 400 HP @ 6,000 RPM. Once I get the motor mocked-up in the car I can then decide on what type of headers I can use. I think the heat was also a factor on that day and the carb size/jetting.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Charlie;
For some reason, Len would bump the throttle handle up at the end of each test. You are right though, I didn't have time to do ANY tuning. He spent all the available time I had in getting the motor set-up on his dyno.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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That's probably true! It was crazy expensive!
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Mike;
Thanks for the cudo's! The coupe is progressing and I'll post some pictures of that next week. As far as the motor goes...I at least know where I'm at with it and know what I need to do. This past week I installed the 11" Centerforce clutch and pressure plate, mounted the T-5 tranny and I'm almost done with my hydraulic (slave cylinder) clutch. I'll post pictures later in the week.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Thanks for the kind and encouraging words Ted and Tim! I took a "Flip" video of the dyno pull and I have attached the link below. I don't know if it will work because I have never tried this before.
http://flipshare.theflip.com/EN_US/5.12/Partners/Other/ShareVideos.htm
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Hey Slick56;
Thanks! Yeah...I got the 37 coupe in April I posted a thread in "This and That" called "Farm Fresh 37 Coupe". It's coming along and now that I know the motor is good to go, we can build the motor and tranny (T-5) mounts. I'll need to buy headers soon too so we can plan the exhaust.
Sorry the "Flip" video didn't work. I'm not sure how to post that.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Chuck;
R&L Performance in Dover did the machine work on the block and they referred me to Len Caverly in Barrington, NH. His "shop" is located at his house. If you want his phone # and address let me know.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Thanks Chuck...that's a nice offer. I think I'll wait until fall or this winter to see if Billy's friend (Steve) in Hollowell, ME gets his dyno up and running. That would only be 1 hour from where I am and those guys know Y-Blocks.
Thanks again!
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Thanks Dennis for posting those Flip Video's. My wife was taking them and took more of the control room than of the motor. This was just the first attempt and I need to do more testing and get it dialed in better with good headers and step up the secondary jets to #77. I also only ran the motor up to 5000 RPM and only tried 1 setting on the Boost Retard Box and that was 1degree of retard per pound of boost. It was super hot that day too and even with 2 exhaust fans and a big blower fan on the motor, it was almost 100 degrees in the dyno room. Next time will be different. For sure it won't be done in a barn in NH!
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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I'm not sure I understand your question.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Daniel;
I just dropped in the MSD 8383 today. No vacuume advance. I'll be using a MSD 6-BTM to retard the spark under boost. Fuel pump is an Edlebrock high output (150 GPH) boost referenced to the blower. I'm using all 3/8" fuel line. Not sure yet if I will need an electric fuel pump back up, but I don't think I will.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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I haven't thought too much about an intercooler. The plan is to put this motor in a 37 Ford coupe with an open hood (open hood sides) so I will get outside air. I am concerned about detonation issues but I have taken some preventative measures up front (like relieving the block to lower compression) so hopefully it won't be an issue. There were attermarket dip stick oil coolers in the day. I haven't actually seen any, but Moonshadow and I have talked about it.
I'll be running Champion RF11Y gapped at .035" for starters and we'll see how thise work.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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The emblems are reproductions of original fender emblems that showed up on Ebay a while back. They are really nice, well made reproductions, but I haven't seen any listed since I bought the ones I have.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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I have to go and get it in a couple of weeks. I've been waiting for the weather in the mid-west (and here in Maine) to get a little better. The coupe is in Iowa It will be quite the road trip adventure, but make for good story telling!
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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Billy;
Sorry I didn't respond earlier, I was traveling. I spoke with Steve before I left for CA. He is good friends with the guy that runs Central Maine Mustang in Pittsfield and who I got his name from. We talked for a while about dyno testing the motor and while I would love to have you guys help with that, he said that he wouldn't have his dyno room set-up for 6 months. I was hoping to get it done sooner than that. There is a guy in NH that has an engine dyno who I spoke with yesterday. He is partners with the machine shop that did the block machining for me. He would like to dyno the motor for me, but never did a Y Block and isn't sure if his adapter plate will fit my bellhousing. I e-mailed him the measurements of the bellhousing yesterday and I may need to buy John M's T-5 adapter plate first. Anyway, I would rather play you and Steve if possible to get the motor dynoed if we could get it done this summer.
Rono
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By Rono - 11 Years Ago
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I had to travel from Maine to NH to get my first round of dyno testing done yesterday. I allowed 2 days for this, but it turned out not to be enough. The dyno operator never did a Y-block and had to make special spacers for the bellhousing to adapt to his dyno. This took a long time and he worked long into the night. The next morning, around 11:00 Am, I was happy in the fact that the motor fired right up and ran well. We set the initial timing at 13 degrees advance and I re-curved the MSD distributor for a maximum of 38 degrees advance at 2,400 RPM. The dyno room was in a converted barn and even with 2 big exhaust fans and a big blower fan on the motor, temperatures reached almost 100 degrees and 60% humidity.
We broke-in the motor with the belt and carb hat off the motor, but he never monitored the mass air flow going into the carb. He said he didn't think it was needed. Anyway, I found out what I needed to know. The motor held together and ran great, but fell short on the horsepower. The data seemed to show that the 650 double pumper was a little too small and the stock 57 EDB exhaust really killed it. By the time we got to this point, it was 5PM and since I only had a hotel room for 1 night and had almost a 4 hour drive ahead of me, I decided to pull the plug and stop the testing. We could have gone up a couple of steps with the secondary jets from #76 to #78, but I really didn't have the time and didn't think I would gain that much given the carb and exhaust limitations.
The blower added 75 HP over the same RPM range as when the motor was run without the belt attached. We only ran it up to 5,000 RPM when we got almost 300HP, but was still climbing. The torque peaked at 360 ft/lbs @3,200 RPM.
At least now I know the motor is good to go into the 37 Coupe. I'll get some good headers and bump the carb up to a 750 double pumper. Maybe by then I can get with Y Block Billy and get the motor dyno tested again in Maine this time or get the coupe finished and have a chassis dyno test done.
Rono
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By Talkwrench - 11 Years Ago
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Rono, great looking setup, credit to you! Cant wait to hear it run .. Im sure you will video..
I think the carb will be on the small side, tho' your not running a lot of boost there. Does that carb have the special shaft seals and the floats for supercharged application?
I have to ask where is the relief valve in those superchargers?
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By Talkwrench - 6 Years Ago
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Ohhh  ... I dont think its going to be able to suck through that airfilter 
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By YBLOCKMERC - 11 Years Ago
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If you were looking for the WOW factor.......mission accomplished! That is some serious garage-porn. That '37 3-window is one lucky Ford.
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By The Master Cylinder - 11 Years Ago
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Rono, on the video. If you are using FlipShare I have found the easiest way is to post directly to You Tube, then post the You Tube link here. Would love to see/hear your engine run... 
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By The Master Cylinder - 11 Years Ago
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Rono sent me a short vid of his Blown Stroker, first run?
Short but Sweet.
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By The Master Cylinder - 11 Years Ago
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Another from Rono;
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By Hutz 292 - 11 Years Ago
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That eninge looks beautiful. Have you thought about running an intercooler? That would bring you intake air temps down for safer boost air and help prevent detination. I was wondering what kind of spark plugs you were going to run? I think this build is awesome and looks great can't wait to see it run.
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By Hutz 292 - 11 Years Ago
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It's not the fresh air that is an issue it's the supercharger air that gets super heated especially and older supercharger that is less efficient. Once you start compressing air is heats up fast. You can end up with 80 degree ambient air getting up to 150 degrees or higher under boost. A good intercooler will keep it within 10 degrees of ambient.
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By Hutz 292 - 11 Years Ago
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I am not worried about damage to the supercharger but if it does get that hot it would be very significant to cool down the air into the engine. We had a 97 chevy tahoe come into the shop with a vortec supercharger that was non intercooled. It made 287 whp tuned up with out an inter cooler and had knock. We installed a water to air inter cooler (do to room constraints) and didn't touch the tune and it instantly made 305 whp and had no knock. We were able to advance the timing and made 325 whp when we were done. Without the inter cooler the efficiency of the supercharger goes way down. If you can fit it somewhere I would highly suggest it.
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By Hutz 292 - 11 Years Ago
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Where did you get the decals for your valve covers? They are sweet, I have what looks like the same valve covers but I love that Y emblum. If they are available I would like some. They look awesome!
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By Hutz 292 - 11 Years Ago
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Intercoolers aren't an option in our book they get installed always. Intercoolers can be found extremely cheap on the internet often in any dimension you need with many inlet and outlet configurations.
http://www.cxracing.com Is a great place to find many intercoolers or just search the internet. There a lot of intercoolers for $100-$200 or cheaper. For 7-10lbs of boost it wouldn't take a large intercooler. I would highly suggest it because it is much safer for you engine in every aspect, not just for more power but for protection for your engine. Plus it adds a little trick look to your setup.
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By Hutz 292 - 11 Years Ago
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I don't quite recall the Merlin V12 from World War II
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By Hutz 292 - 11 Years Ago
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What kind of power or A/F were you running?
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By lyonroad - 11 Years Ago
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Looks tremendous Rono. That motor could go on the cover of a book!
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By lyonroad - 11 Years Ago
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You can find Rolls Royce Merlin V 12's in those unlimited hydroplanes.
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By lyonroad - 11 Years Ago
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Frank, I grew up in Kelowna B.C. and they ran the unlimiteds on Okanagan Lake for about 3 years in the early '60s. Our farm was 10 miles from the lake and we could hear them. Most were running Rolls Royce and Allison engines except for Miss Chrysler Crew which had twin Hemis.
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By lyonroad - 11 Years Ago
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Rono, I like the look of your hydraulic clutch slave cylinder set up; looks nice and simple. I will be mocking mine up soon and am interested in the part numbers you have for the slave and master cylinders. What are the piston diameters in both cylinders?
Been away for a month on a trip to the Grand Canyon and back. Heading through Boise on a Sunday morning in early September we saw about 30 Hot rods on a run heading towards Ontario Oregon.
Mark
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By STX - 11 Years Ago
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There are actually more benefits than two, lowering the inlet temperature with an intercooler.
Denser air/fuel into cylinders: more hp.
Less thermal load: healthy for components.
But also:
Higher efficiency (Carnot and the second law of thermodynamics): more hp
Less flow loss due to denser air/fuel: more hp.
Cooler inlet temperature means less prone to knocking, more ignition advance can be used: more hp
Cooler inlet temperature means less prone to knocking, higher compression ratio can be used: more hp
Cooler inlet temperature means less prone to knocking, higher boost can be used: more hp
Cooler inlet temperature means less prone to knocking: cheaper gas can be used: money saved
Well, an intercooler do restrict flow somewhat, but not much.
Conclusion: an intercooler has very positive properties, if you can stand the cost and space.
But, for a McCulloch supercharger with 7 psi boost it may not be worth the effort.
1987 Turbo Regal
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By STX - 11 Years Ago
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Hutz 292 is right. Intercoolers are cheap. Liquid to air intercoolers are compact, and preferable, but you need another cooler somewhere to cool the liquid. With a liquid intercooler you can use ice, ice/salt solution (0F or -18C), or dry ice tog get the air really cold. You can also hook up you air condition to the intercooler. With a glycol/water in your system you can manage -40F or -40C . That would be nice for a hot Y-block.You can build one your self for free from scrap parts. I'm putting together one with fifties parts, just for fun and look, but still has much work left with the setup. Remember, the Merlin V12 during WWII used both a centrifugal supercharger like the McCulloch AND a liquid intercooler, and nitrous injection .
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By STX - 11 Years Ago
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The hydroplanes also used the bigger Rolls-Royce Griffon 2240 cu in, a "Y-Block", 2000+ hp . Griffon is similar to the Merlin and used in airplanes such as the Spitfire, and was later also put in a modified P-51 Mustang for competition.
For inspiration , I took a picture of the liquid/air intercooler for the Griffon, which is cut for visibility. The blue color shows air/fuel mixture, and the green color is the water/glycol part.Before making a homemade intercooler, think of the forces. If my calculations are right, a 10x10 inches surface or joint will at 28 psi boost create a force of over one ton , that can explode right into your face  .
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By slick56 - 11 Years Ago
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Hey Rono, great engine! The link didn;t work for me (google chrome), will try explorer a little later. Did you get your '37? If so, howz that coming on?
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By Midwest Mike - 11 Years Ago
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Rono
A big congrats to you on getting your motor completed and having an "incident free" dyno session!!
I wouldn't worry if I were you, it fired, ran strong (not as strong as you had hoped, I know) and is a showpiece. From what you've said the numbers are in there.
Having a 37 convertible myself (flattie powered) I can't wait to see your coupe.
I'm also slowly progressing on a Gord inspired project and if I get the nerve and figure out how, I might post some photos, cause you have inspired me.
Oh yeah, I love your hardtop.
Mike
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By Midwest Mike - 11 Years Ago
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Looking forward to those pictures.
Mike
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By charliemccraney - 11 Years Ago
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That is sweet.
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By charliemccraney - 11 Years Ago
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I noticed toward the end of the video that the rpm kicked back up around 2000rpm after the throttle had been let up. I wonder if that means anything.
You didn't have time to really tune anything. I'm sure you'll find the numbers you're after with some tuning.
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By charliemccraney - 11 Years Ago
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I think that one pulls left.
That's similar to something I was contemplating in case the truck stuff didn't work for some reason.
By moving the location of that hole, you are you make it more difficult to push the pedal, everything else being equal.
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By charliemccraney - 11 Years Ago
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That was my attempt at a joke. Bill said "...it pulls right?" I said it pulls left.
You might be able to angle the cylinder outward. See how it works, but 1 1/2" is quite a bit to move that hole.
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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I agree. A K&N 11" x 3 3/4" filter "will flow approximately 725 CFM in 1.5 inches of water... and support roughly 350 HP." That's according to K&N tech support. Contact the manufacturer of yours to see if it is adequate.
Looks awesome.
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By Ted - 11 Years Ago
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Congratulations on making a number of successful dyno pulls without engine problems. The first time for firing any engine is always with trepidation as there are a myriad of problems that can come to the forefront. Thorough preparation in your case has obviously paid off.
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